WRX Boost Gauge from Subaru -- any good?
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WRX Boost Gauge from Subaru -- any good?
I want to get a boost gauge, and I don't really want to tack one on a pillar, and I don't really want to replace the clock with the 3-gauge cluster. From the little picture on the Subaru website, the available boost gauge that mounts on the steering column looks like it would integrate nicely and not be too obtrusive / block the other gauges too much. What I'm wondering is:
1. Is this gauge any good? Is it fairly accurate?
2. What's the finish quality? If I install it, is it going to fit in, or is it going to look like a cheap POS that's been tacked on?
1. Is this gauge any good? Is it fairly accurate?
2. What's the finish quality? If I install it, is it going to fit in, or is it going to look like a cheap POS that's been tacked on?
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Originally posted by Cosmo
My WRX came with it. It's mounted pretty solidly. So solidly I can't move it at all. Works fine too. As for accuracy, I don't know since I don't have anything to compare it to.
My WRX came with it. It's mounted pretty solidly. So solidly I can't move it at all. Works fine too. As for accuracy, I don't know since I don't have anything to compare it to.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad to hear that in at least all aspects other than accuracy it works well. :-)
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: new york
Car Info: black o2 sedan
i wouldnt get it, ive seen aftermarket ones that are made for the same spot in a subaru that look sweet, of course i cant remember who made them though
the main problem is that it reads in milibar, not PSI, so figuring the conversions might be (is) a *****, because the only thing anyone ever talks about is PSI anyway
if you dont mind that, then everything else on it is perfect except it doesnt match the regular gauges, the regular gauges are green and the boost is white..... WHAT THE ?!?!?! i mean, i paid like $250 or somethin to keep it on the car from the dealer and it doesnt even look factory?
well it does look factory, just the color is diff. Its coated in a rubber and mounts right onto the colum perfectly and securely.
the main problem is that it reads in milibar, not PSI, so figuring the conversions might be (is) a *****, because the only thing anyone ever talks about is PSI anyway
if you dont mind that, then everything else on it is perfect except it doesnt match the regular gauges, the regular gauges are green and the boost is white..... WHAT THE ?!?!?! i mean, i paid like $250 or somethin to keep it on the car from the dealer and it doesnt even look factory?
well it does look factory, just the color is diff. Its coated in a rubber and mounts right onto the colum perfectly and securely.
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From: Mann Engineering, Santa Clara, CA
Car Info: 13BRZ, 11FXT, 08T25, 07STI, 02WRX
How hard is it to read? All you need to know is that 0.1mPa is about 14psi on the gauge. That is a good estimate to start with. There are other gauges out that that are good too. I have the STI Genome gauge on my RS and it works great although it is much more expensive than the factory gauge. It eventually boils down to preference.
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I replaced my factory gauges that came with my wrx with Greddy 52mm gauges. I just could not read the OEM boost gauge in the center gauge pod. I don't have the best eyesight but i have no problems seeing the Greddy boost gauge now. Not to mention that the Greddy gauge is electronic, vs. the OEM mehcanical, and the color even matches the dashboard.
Paul
Paul
pic courtesy of IS2Scooby
A cheaper alternative would be the VDO gauge. Stock looking, green backlight, and in PSI.
I think the whole setup cost him like $70 for the gauge and the pod.
A cheaper alternative would be the VDO gauge. Stock looking, green backlight, and in PSI.
I think the whole setup cost him like $70 for the gauge and the pod.
Originally posted by kawshon1
pic courtesy of IS2Scooby
A cheaper alternative would be the VDO gauge. Stock looking, green backlight, and in PSI.
I think the whole setup cost him like $70 for the gauge and the pod.
pic courtesy of IS2Scooby
A cheaper alternative would be the VDO gauge. Stock looking, green backlight, and in PSI.
I think the whole setup cost him like $70 for the gauge and the pod.
accurate enough, so when he tunes his MBC he dont blow nothing up 
YMMV though, as you might get a bad one from the factory, damage from shipping, user error...
A search should bring up, what everyone else is getting, at idle, and what the gauge reads at certain RPMS.
YMMV though, as you might get a bad one from the factory, damage from shipping, user error...A search should bring up, what everyone else is getting, at idle, and what the gauge reads at certain RPMS.
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If you're looking for a stealth look see if Autometer has released the instrument cluster bezel yet. It puts 2 2 1/6" gauges in the bottom left and bottom right of your instrument cluster and looks very clean. Their gauges are also very cheap, and good quality (I really like the look of the carbon fiber series).
As for the stock gauge, it is fairly accurate for relative pressure. However, it does not take into account any factors such as altitude changes. You will have this same problem with any boost gauge without some sort of intelligence built into it. It is not too hard to convert .Mpa to PSI on the fly once you get used to it, and the gauge is not too hard to read.
As for the stock gauge, it is fairly accurate for relative pressure. However, it does not take into account any factors such as altitude changes. You will have this same problem with any boost gauge without some sort of intelligence built into it. It is not too hard to convert .Mpa to PSI on the fly once you get used to it, and the gauge is not too hard to read.
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The dealer installed boost gauge reads in MegaPascals. (MPa) You can do your MPa to PSI conversions here: http://www.ex.ac.uk/cimt/dictunit/ccpress.htm
Also, when I was in S. Florida right by the ocean, I noticed that I didn't have as much boost as when I am home. I figured it was because I was at sea level.
-Dave
UPDATED 1-20-03 I made a typo, it's MegaPascals and not milliPascals. Sorry!
Also, when I was in S. Florida right by the ocean, I noticed that I didn't have as much boost as when I am home. I figured it was because I was at sea level.
-Dave
UPDATED 1-20-03 I made a typo, it's MegaPascals and not milliPascals. Sorry!
Last edited by SubaDave03; Jan 20, 2003 at 09:45 PM.
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Your gauge will read lower at sea level than at higher altitudes. Remember that your gauge reads off of realative pressure changes to where you are at, not absolute pressure (such as MAP values). You were probably running the same, or perhaps slightly more boost at times at sea level, even though your gauge read lower.
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It's my understanding that a boost gauge reads pressure above whatever the outside airpressure is. So wouldn't the turbo be controlled to produce .09 MPa above the outside air pressure regardless of what that outside air pressure might be? Sea-level or otherwise. (I know I'm probably wrong here, just not sure why.)
-Dave
-Dave
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You understand the concept, but are applying it wrong. Boost gauge readings are not used to control anything. Let's say the outside air pressure is 0 (theoretical seapressure is 1 Bar) and an aftermarket EBC (the factory unit just runs a certain wastegate value based on its map point, it does not do atmospheric adjustments) controls boost to .9 MPA. Your boost gauge will read .9 MPA. Then you go up in the mountains and let's say the outside airpressure is -.2 MPA. Your boost gauge will read .7 MPA even though your MAP pressure will be .9 MPA. The reason that I mentioned that you may be running a little more boost at sea level is due to the fact that your turbo needs to move less air to reach the same pressure. Therefore boost builds faster, and for any given wastegate value you will be running more boost. This is why a aftermarket boost controller is especially helpful to thoes at higher altitudes, and why TurboXS's UTEC with the closed loop boost control is so cool as it will adjust to altitude.