I'm Bored, just thought i post up some useful information for basic car maintainance.

Click on below PDF for factory suggested 2005 WRX Sti maintaince Schedule.

 

2. How to Change your own oil.

What you'll need:
- 12mm socket for the bolts on the plastic undercarriage shield
- 17mm socket for the drain plug on the oil pan
- If you have the optional performance gauge pack with an oil temperator sensor, you'll need a 27mm open-end (not box) wrench for the drain plug
- Flathead screwdriver for the pins on the plastic undercarriage shield
- MAYBE a filter wrench.
- Ramps are helpful for getting under the car if your car is lowered.
- Oil drain pan for catching the old oil -- I suggest buy a bigger drain pan.
I use a 15 qt drain pan like this one


- New oil filter (I used a Purolator PureOne PL14612.
- New oil -- spec for the WRX is 4.8 US quarts. See your user's manual. 5W-30 / 10W-30
- New crush washer for the drain plug
- or -
- Fumoto oil drain valve (which comes with a fiberglass washer, and incidentally gets installed in this write-up). You'll also need a 3/4" crescent wrench for the fumoto valve install.

Procedure:

NOTE: The oil will flow easier if the engine is warm. Also, warm oil tends to hold particulates in suspension better than cold oil, rather than letting it settle to the bottom of the drain pan. So before you start, you may want to take a short drive to get the engine up to operating temperature before changing the oil.

First thing, get the front of the car up on the ramps. This isn't absolutely necessary, especially if you've done this before and know where everything is, but it does make things easier.

Next, look under the car. If you have a MY2002 or MY2003, then the drain plug and filter will be fairly accessible. However, if you have a MY2004 or later (as I do), it's a lot easier if you remove the big plastic splash guard from under the engine. Here's a picture of what it looks like, with the locations of the bolts and pins you'll need to undo. Unscrew the five bolts and pop the four plastic pins off. To get the pins off, use a flat-head screwdriver and pop the center up, then pull the whole thing out.



After that's off and out of the way, now it gets fun. Take a look under there and locate the oil filter and the drain plug. It should look something like this (Depending on which type of filter was used, the filter may look different than shown -- OEM filters are either white or black):


Now set your oil drain pan under the filter and drain plug -- it's about to get messy. In fact, it's not a bad idea to spread some newspaper around the drain pan just in case.

If you don't have the oil temp sensor, remove the drain plug using a 17mm socket. If this is the first time that the car's oil is being changed, the drain plug may be very tough to remove. Be careful not to strip the bolt. Also, make sure that the crush washer on the drain plug comes off. It seems to be painted on from the factory, so make sure that you get it off at this point. Otherwise, if you put a new on on top of it, it may cause a leak. Once the drain plug is loose, let the oil start to drain into the drain pan.

Then, unscrew the filter. You should be able to unscrew it by hand. If not, you may need a filter wrench to get it off. NOTE: if the engine is hot, be careful about touching the exhaust manifold (the big pipe that wraps around the front and side of the filter.) A decent amount of oil will drain from the filter socket.

While it's draining, grab your new filter and prep it. Fill it with new oil (pour some in, let it soak in, then pour in some more), and lube the gasket on the top. Fill the filter 3/4 full of oil.

After the oil has drained out, wipe off the surface of the filter landing, and screw the new filter on. Don't go nuts tightening it -- do it by hand and make it snug, but don't over-tighten it or you'll strip the threads or crush the top of the filter.

Next, either put the drain plug back in with a new crush washer, torqued to 33 ft-lbs, or put in the fumoto valve (which is what I have). If you're installing a fumoto valve, use a 3/4" crescent wrench to screw it in.

Now, pour in the new oil in the oil fill tube (4.8 US quarts is the full spec), and replace the cap. Start up the car (the oil light may go on briefly and go out) and let it idle for a few seconds or so, then shut it off. Check under the car for any leaks.

Put the undercarriage shield back on, and you're done! You can take the old oil to the nearest AutoZone, Jiffy Lube, etc. to be disposed of properly.

Guide slightly modify from one found on nazioc.
Credit : Perret318

 

3. How to flush your Power Steering Fluid
Not sure why you need to do that.. but here you go.

Believe it or not, the "standard" flush service on PS systems provided by most service personnel consists of multiple drain and fills.

Simply drain as much as possible through the cylinder housing (i.e. turkey baster, etc.) and refill. Start car and turn wheel all the way to the left and then back to the right (or vice versa) five times. Turn off and repeat. Do this about 4 to 5 times and you are done.

Use Dexron III ATF compatible oil.

 

4. How to Bleed your Brakes

 

5. How to Flush your coolant

 

You should have posted this in the main thread.

 

did you find this on bit torrent, because I just downloaded a file similar to this.

 

you got it sir

 

that's funny on my legacy the drain plug is on the other side?

 

Orly?