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Odd and disturbing CELs

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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 02:53 PM
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Odd and disturbing CELs

Hello. I have a 2004 wrx that is bone stock. It is my daily driver and I rarely ever step on it because my commute is about 80 miles a day... This is the second motor in this car since the first spun a bearing under warranty. I have about 60k on the newer motor and 110k on the chassis. Now for the problem, I have been getting an intermittant p0302 code for a cylinder 2 missfire. So be it... I changed the plugs(iridiums) and it came back. Since then I have been getting the blinking CEL(detonation) but more about that later. In the meantime I have replaced the coil packs, fuel filter, and injectors... P0302 still comes back every now and then and the blinking CEL too. The car drives fine. Sounds fine though the idle is a tad rough... especially so when its cold. One thing I have noticed is that the blinking CEL always comes on in the afternoon when I leave work and within 3 miles of doing so. Never in the morning or late evening... Typically so with the P0302 too. Could my o2 be doing something funky with the mapping when it thinks that the cat is warmed up? I just got my Tactrix in the mail so I will be setting that up soon. Any thoughts. This has been going on for a while and is starting to worry me. Many thanks.
Kevin
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:40 PM
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Firstly, the blinking CEL means the ECU is detecting a significant misfire at that specific time. Since the misfire is completely localized to Cylinder 2 and you've already swapped plugs, coil packs, and injectors, there me be some cause for concern. I would recommend doing a compression and leakdown on the engine. You may have a damaged piston, or a valve may also be out of adjustment on that cylinder.

A bad O2 sensor could cause some misfires from the resulting rich condition, but generally that would not be localized to a single cylinder.

Thanks
-- Ed
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:48 PM
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Coil packs seldom go bad.
Check valve lash on #2.
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 06:06 PM
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Had the same problem with my forester in cylinder 4 and the head burned up twice until the mechanic finally pulled the motor and it was a cracked piston with severe piston wear on the back that made a slight piston slap. Is there any ticking at all?
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 06:20 PM
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There is a slight ticking but once it warms up, it goes away... Piston slap isn't uncommon on these motors from what I have read so I thought it was acceptable. Looks like I may have worse issues. Compression test and leakdown is on the menu... Another thing to add is that the p0302 and blinking check engine don't show up at the same time... dunno if that matters. They seem kinda independant. Thanks for the replies. I am kinda expecting the worse on this one...
Kevin

Last edited by Sicarius428; Aug 5, 2010 at 06:25 PM.
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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Yeah, ticking went away once warm. Sorry to say so. Hope it turns out well.
Old Aug 8, 2010 | 11:20 PM
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70psi on cylinder 1... and the leakdown wasn't so hot either... Every other cylinder is in the high 140s and leakdown was less than 20%. Issue is found at least. Now where to go is the problem.
Kevin
Old Aug 8, 2010 | 11:48 PM
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take it in to Paul or Ed... they both do great work, done business with them both haha

good luck
Old Aug 9, 2010 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Sicarius428
70psi on cylinder 1... and the leakdown wasn't so hot either... Every other cylinder is in the high 140s and leakdown was less than 20%. Issue is found at least. Now where to go is the problem.
Kevin
What is the cause of the low compression?
Is it in the lower or upper end of the engine?
Old Aug 9, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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Is there a good way to tell? I didn't hear any hissing coming from the dipstick tube or oil fill... I can test it again and pay closer attension if I know what to look for. Thank you.
Kevin
Old Aug 10, 2010 | 02:52 PM
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When you do the leakdown test, you should listen to the oil filler neck, intake, and exhaust. That'll give you a better idea where the issue is.

Thanks
-- Ed
Old Aug 10, 2010 | 03:58 PM
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Will do. So if it comes out the oil, the rings, piston and/or block is hosed. Best case would be the heads I guess... What is a good range of cost as far as damage could be conserned(budget minded). Don't get me wrong. I love this car but it's getting to the point of should I just buy a fit or something...
Kevin
Old Aug 10, 2010 | 05:21 PM
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Check the valve lash on the low cylinder.
Engine performance will suffer long before you air leaking past the exhaust and/or intake valves.
Old Aug 10, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Sicarius428
Will do. So if it comes out the oil, the rings, piston and/or block is hosed. Best case would be the heads I guess... What is a good range of cost as far as damage could be conserned(budget minded). Don't get me wrong. I love this car but it's getting to the point of should I just buy a fit or something...
Kevin
That will highly depend on exactly what's wrong. If its a bent or burnt valve, you'll be looking at roughly $2k. If its just a valve lash issue, you'll be at around $1k.

Thanks
-- Ed
Old Aug 10, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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I'll keep my fingers crossed for a valve lash issue. Is it something that I would be able to check in my garage with the motor in the car. I have checked valves on my 5vzfe but a flat 4 is a somewhat new world to me. Gotta change the oil soonish anyways...
Kevin

Last edited by Sicarius428; Aug 10, 2010 at 06:43 PM.



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