Lot's of Questions... need LOTS of answers
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12
From: LI, NY
Lot's of Questions... need LOTS of answers
Hey, everyone! Fairly new to this so bear with me, OK? Now I've been doing a lot of searching for different parts and modifications that I plan on doing to my '04 AT WRX (yes, yes, laugh all you want). Anyway, what I'm looking for is just to improve my car; I don't plan on taking it to the track or anything like that but I just want to improve my daily driver, and I plan on keeping my car for a VERY LONG TIME. So this is what I've been planning. What do you guys think? (Other AT drivers' opinions will be MUCH appreciated):
1: SS Brake lines and Brake Fluid
2: Cobb sway bars
3: Perrin Rear Endlinks
4: Front (maybe Rear) Strut tower Bar(s)
5: Samco intercooler pipes and intake pipe
6: PDE (flex?) uppipe
7: Catback system
8: Cobb AccessPort
So basically to sum up, I want to get rid of turbo lag as MUCH as possible and within legal boundries. It's kinda hard to get to 3000RPM in an AT, ya know? And what would be ideal is that I install the part and not have to worry about it fooking up my car. A torque converter HAS come to mind, but that's going to be way down the line. Well, I'm done blabbing, hope you guys can help me out!
PS- Is the 3/16 mod really worth it? I tried it and it worked for me but my car acted funny at higher RPMs and I read that it could screw up my car. Opinions?
1: SS Brake lines and Brake Fluid
2: Cobb sway bars
3: Perrin Rear Endlinks
4: Front (maybe Rear) Strut tower Bar(s)
5: Samco intercooler pipes and intake pipe
6: PDE (flex?) uppipe
7: Catback system
8: Cobb AccessPort
So basically to sum up, I want to get rid of turbo lag as MUCH as possible and within legal boundries. It's kinda hard to get to 3000RPM in an AT, ya know? And what would be ideal is that I install the part and not have to worry about it fooking up my car. A torque converter HAS come to mind, but that's going to be way down the line. Well, I'm done blabbing, hope you guys can help me out!
PS- Is the 3/16 mod really worth it? I tried it and it worked for me but my car acted funny at higher RPMs and I read that it could screw up my car. Opinions?
Re: Lot's of Questions... need LOTS of answers
Originally posted by Munashi
Hey, everyone! Fairly new to this so bear with me, OK? Now I've been doing a lot of searching for different parts and modifications that I plan on doing to my '04 AT WRX (yes, yes, laugh all you want). Anyway, what I'm looking for is just to improve my car; I don't plan on taking it to the track or anything like that but I just want to improve my daily driver, and I plan on keeping my car for a VERY LONG TIME. So this is what I've been planning. What do you guys think? (Other AT drivers' opinions will be MUCH appreciated):
1: SS Brake lines and Brake Fluid
2: Cobb sway bars
3: Perrin Rear Endlinks
4: Front (maybe Rear) Strut tower Bar(s)
5: Samco intercooler pipes and intake pipe
6: PDE (flex?) uppipe
7: Catback system
8: Cobb AccessPort
So basically to sum up, I want to get rid of turbo lag as MUCH as possible and within legal boundries. It's kinda hard to get to 3000RPM in an AT, ya know? And what would be ideal is that I install the part and not have to worry about it fooking up my car. A torque converter HAS come to mind, but that's going to be way down the line. Well, I'm done blabbing, hope you guys can help me out!
PS- Is the 3/16 mod really worth it? I tried it and it worked for me but my car acted funny at higher RPMs and I read that it could screw up my car. Opinions?
Hey, everyone! Fairly new to this so bear with me, OK? Now I've been doing a lot of searching for different parts and modifications that I plan on doing to my '04 AT WRX (yes, yes, laugh all you want). Anyway, what I'm looking for is just to improve my car; I don't plan on taking it to the track or anything like that but I just want to improve my daily driver, and I plan on keeping my car for a VERY LONG TIME. So this is what I've been planning. What do you guys think? (Other AT drivers' opinions will be MUCH appreciated):
1: SS Brake lines and Brake Fluid
2: Cobb sway bars
3: Perrin Rear Endlinks
4: Front (maybe Rear) Strut tower Bar(s)
5: Samco intercooler pipes and intake pipe
6: PDE (flex?) uppipe
7: Catback system
8: Cobb AccessPort
So basically to sum up, I want to get rid of turbo lag as MUCH as possible and within legal boundries. It's kinda hard to get to 3000RPM in an AT, ya know? And what would be ideal is that I install the part and not have to worry about it fooking up my car. A torque converter HAS come to mind, but that's going to be way down the line. Well, I'm done blabbing, hope you guys can help me out!
PS- Is the 3/16 mod really worth it? I tried it and it worked for me but my car acted funny at higher RPMs and I read that it could screw up my car. Opinions?
1. along with the lines and fluid, better pads
2. Personally i would only do the rear. Front changes understeer characteristics(maybe its overstear, i can't remember. do a search on the front.)
3. good
4. do both braces
5. good.
6. good.
7. do a TBE with with a mechanical cel fix.
8. Good. with tbe you can do stage 2. Also has a built in rear cel fix.
Sounds like good improvements. I am doing the same as well. Already have TBE, 17" wheels and tires(made a good handleing improvement), Waiting on the accessport for sage 2, waiting on perrin drop springs and kyb struts. Remeber all of these mods have a possible affect on warranty issues.
Also i would stay away from the 3/16 mod. It's kind of cheating. I think it's just safer that way. It's just like mbc's people put them on and then take them off later because they are tired certain issues.
Last edited by wrx10404; Apr 14, 2004 at 05:29 PM.
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From: How do you swap an RSTi?
Car Info: 2001 Impreza 2.5RS(Ti)
1. these will improve the feel of the breaks
2. agree with WRX 10404, only do rear
3. endlinks are a good idea, but not absolutely necessary
4. rear is more necessary than front in a wrx
5. good
6. good
7. good
8. good, waiting on mine too
Now you'll be tempted to get a downpipe with the money you save. Definitely more bang for the buck. You probably want to stay away from the front sway bar. Looks like you know what you're doing though. Good luck.
2. agree with WRX 10404, only do rear
3. endlinks are a good idea, but not absolutely necessary
4. rear is more necessary than front in a wrx
5. good
6. good
7. good
8. good, waiting on mine too
Now you'll be tempted to get a downpipe with the money you save. Definitely more bang for the buck. You probably want to stay away from the front sway bar. Looks like you know what you're doing though. Good luck.
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Posts: 9,351
From: pompous douchebag
Car Info: $200,000 sports car
here's some good mod suggestions for an automatic wrx from an automatic wrx owner...
1. better tires
2. catless up-pipe
3. bellmouth downpipe with highflow cat
4. better front brake pads
5. VF34, STi Injectors, fuel pump, GOOD ecutek reflash
6. upgraded torque converter
1. better tires
2. catless up-pipe
3. bellmouth downpipe with highflow cat
4. better front brake pads
5. VF34, STi Injectors, fuel pump, GOOD ecutek reflash
6. upgraded torque converter
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 341
From: High in the Rockies!... but not too high
Car Info: 2004 2.5RS pacifica blue with black Tarmacs
Re: Lot's of Questions... need LOTS of answers
Originally posted by Munashi
1: SS Brake lines and Brake Fluid
2: Cobb sway bars
3: Perrin Rear Endlinks
4: Front (maybe Rear) Strut tower Bar(s)
5: Samco intercooler pipes and intake pipe
6: PDE (flex?) uppipe
7: Catback system
8: Cobb AccessPort
1: SS Brake lines and Brake Fluid
2: Cobb sway bars
3: Perrin Rear Endlinks
4: Front (maybe Rear) Strut tower Bar(s)
5: Samco intercooler pipes and intake pipe
6: PDE (flex?) uppipe
7: Catback system
8: Cobb AccessPort
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12
From: LI, NY
Thanks A Lot you guys! :banana: Now, one more question: Tires and springs... Told ya I had a lot of questions! Now, I'm looking at 17" wheels but 7.5" or 8.5"? Now the 8.5" will that be too much? Just gives me the prospect of putting in a bigger brake kit but that is if I get really spoiled and if I had the money. Rota or Advan? Apparently it seems they are basically the same quality but Rota's are cheaper. Opinions?
Springs: I would like to lower the car but this is also an afterthought. I just want to close up that wheel gap enough so it looks better, functions like stock, and so I don't plow snow or screw up my bumper if I park too close to the curb. I just want to lower the car the least amount as possible and it seems the Eibach springs are the ones that act like stock and lower the car an inch or less. Opinions?
Again guys, Thanks A Lot.
Springs: I would like to lower the car but this is also an afterthought. I just want to close up that wheel gap enough so it looks better, functions like stock, and so I don't plow snow or screw up my bumper if I park too close to the curb. I just want to lower the car the least amount as possible and it seems the Eibach springs are the ones that act like stock and lower the car an inch or less. Opinions?
Again guys, Thanks A Lot.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 341
From: High in the Rockies!... but not too high
Car Info: 2004 2.5RS pacifica blue with black Tarmacs
8.5's too wide. I have rota 17 X 7.5 and I think they would rub if the car was lowered. Unless you go with Compomotive wheels. You can get any offset you want, but they cost ALOT! Eibach makes a good product, but remember the whole system works together. Too stiff of a spring on a stock strut will make it rebound very quickly possibly causing instability. The same is true for an RSB. Probably 20-22mm on the stock suspension would be good to neutralize the handling any more and the rear suspension may not function properly and you the car may also start to oversteer. 
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 554
From: Tucson
Car Info: '02 WRX WRB
Regarding the "legal boundaries": any removal of a factory catalytic converter that is not malfunctioning is ILLEGAL, it's a federal law. Replacing the uppipe with a catless one will likely still keep you legal as far as emissions though. My conscience says one high-flow in the downpipe is good enough.
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Do BOTH swaybars - snap oversteer from poorly matched front/rear sway bars is not good and IMO is not safe in an emergency. If you haven't experienced this, take your car through some right - left transitions at a decent speed and you will see what happens. Yeah the RSB helps to limit that annoying understeer but at a large cost "at the limit". Plus, if you are an experienced autocrosser, it doesn't take a whole lot to get the car to rotate when and where you want it to.
I would do endlinks that have poly bushings instead of metal - keeps the bar centered (the new Whitelines look nice). Intercooler hoses are good (unless you autocross) - probably save your money on the intake pipe as it is pretty expensive for the gain you get. PDE flex uppipe is great...the new PDE catted DPs are sweet as well. Eibach springs ride nicely but they aren't "aggressive" if you are interested in autocrossing. I didn't change my brake lines but new pads made a nice difference in feel/performance (I have Axxis Ultimates). AccessPort is a good idea. Catbacks look and sound great. Strut tower bars are questionable - I have one on the rear of my sedan and it helped minimize the creaks I was getting after switching to stiffer sway bars.
17x7.5 Rotas are great every day wheels... use 225/45 tires and you will be doing just fine. I like the Kumho MX's for a great summer tire, Yokohama ES100s for summer/rain... if you track your car or autocross, you may look at something different of course.
I know I am rambling, but it is late and I'm tired!
Matt
I would do endlinks that have poly bushings instead of metal - keeps the bar centered (the new Whitelines look nice). Intercooler hoses are good (unless you autocross) - probably save your money on the intake pipe as it is pretty expensive for the gain you get. PDE flex uppipe is great...the new PDE catted DPs are sweet as well. Eibach springs ride nicely but they aren't "aggressive" if you are interested in autocrossing. I didn't change my brake lines but new pads made a nice difference in feel/performance (I have Axxis Ultimates). AccessPort is a good idea. Catbacks look and sound great. Strut tower bars are questionable - I have one on the rear of my sedan and it helped minimize the creaks I was getting after switching to stiffer sway bars.
17x7.5 Rotas are great every day wheels... use 225/45 tires and you will be doing just fine. I like the Kumho MX's for a great summer tire, Yokohama ES100s for summer/rain... if you track your car or autocross, you may look at something different of course.
I know I am rambling, but it is late and I'm tired!
Matt
Re: Re: Lot's of Questions... need LOTS of answers
Originally posted by SubySal
(1) sounds like a good place to start on the brakes, I'd go with Goodridge lines and Motul 600 fluid, (2) I don't know, I think if you looked around you could get something better for your money, check out Whiteline and especially Cusco ( I think they actually make the Cobb bars as well, but I'm not positive.) and like it was said only do the rear unless you upgrade the springs and struts.(3) under no circumstances install these on your car. The sphereical bearings that Perrin uses will allow your car's RSB to walk from side to side and come into contact with other components as well as change RSB geometry. I prefer something in aluminum with polyurethane bushings like Mr. Joshes (have these on my car, work great) or Whiteline. (4) waste of money, the new hydroformed chassis is so stiff you wouldn't notice a difference unless you pushed it very, very hard. (5) sounds pretty good too. silicone, way better then rubber and much more stable at higher temps plus it looks good too. (6) & (7) bigger is better with turbos. Declog everything your wallet will permit. Header, uppipe, downpipe, cats and muffler "the woiks". Also a CAI remember your engine is a big pump the easier it is to get air in and out the more power it will produce, and this goes double for turboed engines. (8) you can do it but it will effectively void all warranties on the vehicle so beware. Hope this helps
(1) sounds like a good place to start on the brakes, I'd go with Goodridge lines and Motul 600 fluid, (2) I don't know, I think if you looked around you could get something better for your money, check out Whiteline and especially Cusco ( I think they actually make the Cobb bars as well, but I'm not positive.) and like it was said only do the rear unless you upgrade the springs and struts.(3) under no circumstances install these on your car. The sphereical bearings that Perrin uses will allow your car's RSB to walk from side to side and come into contact with other components as well as change RSB geometry. I prefer something in aluminum with polyurethane bushings like Mr. Joshes (have these on my car, work great) or Whiteline. (4) waste of money, the new hydroformed chassis is so stiff you wouldn't notice a difference unless you pushed it very, very hard. (5) sounds pretty good too. silicone, way better then rubber and much more stable at higher temps plus it looks good too. (6) & (7) bigger is better with turbos. Declog everything your wallet will permit. Header, uppipe, downpipe, cats and muffler "the woiks". Also a CAI remember your engine is a big pump the easier it is to get air in and out the more power it will produce, and this goes double for turboed engines. (8) you can do it but it will effectively void all warranties on the vehicle so beware. Hope this helps
Good advice. Thanks for the tip on the perrin endlinks. I was gonna get those. I 'll check out the Mr. joshes. I disagree with the CAI. It has been hashed over here in i-club and i believe that unless your getting a huge turbo it is not nessesary. In fact if you go with the cobb reflash they say to use the stock box. It flows more evenly than most CAI's. They say that it leans the motor out a little and with the adjustments the reflash makes it could lean it out too much. Cobb said this "may" happen. It's up tp you i guess i just want to play it safe.
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
Car Info: 2002 Honda S2000
Re: Re: Re: Lot's of Questions... need LOTS of answers
Originally posted by wrx10404
Good advice. Thanks for the tip on the perrin endlinks. I was gonna get those. I 'll check out the Mr. joshes. I disagree with the CAI. It has been hashed over here in i-club and i believe that unless your getting a huge turbo it is not nessesary. In fact if you go with the cobb reflash they say to use the stock box. It flows more evenly than most CAI's. They say that it leans the motor out a little and with the adjustments the reflash makes it could lean it out too much. Cobb said this "may" happen. It's up tp you i guess i just want to play it safe.
Good advice. Thanks for the tip on the perrin endlinks. I was gonna get those. I 'll check out the Mr. joshes. I disagree with the CAI. It has been hashed over here in i-club and i believe that unless your getting a huge turbo it is not nessesary. In fact if you go with the cobb reflash they say to use the stock box. It flows more evenly than most CAI's. They say that it leans the motor out a little and with the adjustments the reflash makes it could lean it out too much. Cobb said this "may" happen. It's up tp you i guess i just want to play it safe.
Raymond
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,004
From: Northern Bay Area: Larkspur
Car Info: 02 Silver WRX sedan. Eibach springs, Blitz NUR cat back, Rota 17" Attacks, Cobb AccessPort/DP
Daily driver or race car???
Man sounds like your list is growing more and more....
You have to set realistic goals. First off you obviously want a practical daily driver, it shows. You bought an auto wagon. They don't come any slower. So i'm assuming you're shooting for practicality, and not race car. Forget the 8.5" wide tires. Forget the fancy brake upgrades (are you racing this thing?). Forget anything that's not going to generate power. The bottom line is you're not going to be power sliding this thing on a race course fighting to save every second.
I'd go with a cobb stage two (with a low price TBE - Stage 2 map should take care of any CEL's), some nice 17" rota's with good tires, maybe yokohama's EVS ES100's ($1050), some new springs (eibachs less than $200).
I'd probably leave it at that. Little bit more power, little lower with some good looking 17's, and still a great and practical every day driver.
You have to set realistic goals. First off you obviously want a practical daily driver, it shows. You bought an auto wagon. They don't come any slower. So i'm assuming you're shooting for practicality, and not race car. Forget the 8.5" wide tires. Forget the fancy brake upgrades (are you racing this thing?). Forget anything that's not going to generate power. The bottom line is you're not going to be power sliding this thing on a race course fighting to save every second.
I'd go with a cobb stage two (with a low price TBE - Stage 2 map should take care of any CEL's), some nice 17" rota's with good tires, maybe yokohama's EVS ES100's ($1050), some new springs (eibachs less than $200).
I'd probably leave it at that. Little bit more power, little lower with some good looking 17's, and still a great and practical every day driver.
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I live on a twisty canyon road outside of the S.F. Bay Area. I too have a 4EAT and still manage to have a lot of fun with this car and here is why. I started with whiteline sway bars and end links. 21mm front/26 adjustable rear. What a difference that made. Then I moved to whiteline strut tower braces front and rear. As soon as I did that my tires did not squeal and the car handled better when I took corners harder and faster. I now have AVS 100's (225/50/16) a helix up/down pipe, hush catback, txs intake, plus the above mods. I never thought an auto could be so much fun.