I am asking after buying....
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 206
From: Milpitas, CA
Car Info: Aspen White GDA
I am asking after buying....
I purchased the Cusco dp and FGK catback.
ie. no cat at all
Is this gonna be f***ing loud? And will there be back-fire?
I am a newbie so excuse me if these are stupid questions....
Oh, and has anybody installed dp + catback or turbo backs by yourself? Any instructions or tips?
thanks
ben
ie. no cat at all
Is this gonna be f***ing loud? And will there be back-fire?
I am a newbie so excuse me if these are stupid questions....
Oh, and has anybody installed dp + catback or turbo backs by yourself? Any instructions or tips?
thanks
ben
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Don't know how loud your car will be since I have a TXS turbo back and is just too damn quiet for me (looking to replace), but your install should go fine.
Here is what I did. I bought a set of Blitz (the gas can company) plastic ramps that have a low incline (no scraping), I put the front end on the ramps, and I jacked up the rear with a block of wood and a floor jack (underneath the pumpkin/rear diff). Ok so now the whole car is lifted nicely, time to roll around on the ground. I removed the stock exhaust from rear to front and saved the downpipe as the last removal. I then installed the aftermarket stuff from front to rear (torque properly). I then took that moment to install my Cusco front swaybar since the fron end was on the ramps.
Note #1 - Put soapy water on the rubber exhaust hangers if they are to tough to get off/on
Note #2 - Be careful with the rear O2 sensor (don't get it dirty, don't cross-thread it, and don't damage it). You may also have to work some slack into the O2 sensor wire, there is enough there, you may need to just release a few wire restraints. You may also need to get the CEL fix if you get a CEL after the install.
Note #3 - The easiest way to get all of the bolts off the upper part of the downpipe is with a box-end wrench. The heat shield was the biggest pain about the whole thing I think. Putting it back on will be up to you, but I left mine off, because you usually need to cut off portions of it to get it to fit. Besides, there were just too many damn bolts on that shield to be putting back on.
Note #4 - Check your work (loose pieces/exhaust leaks).
That's about it, most of the nuts/bolts are 10/12/14mm if I remember correctly.
Here is what I did. I bought a set of Blitz (the gas can company) plastic ramps that have a low incline (no scraping), I put the front end on the ramps, and I jacked up the rear with a block of wood and a floor jack (underneath the pumpkin/rear diff). Ok so now the whole car is lifted nicely, time to roll around on the ground. I removed the stock exhaust from rear to front and saved the downpipe as the last removal. I then installed the aftermarket stuff from front to rear (torque properly). I then took that moment to install my Cusco front swaybar since the fron end was on the ramps.
Note #1 - Put soapy water on the rubber exhaust hangers if they are to tough to get off/on
Note #2 - Be careful with the rear O2 sensor (don't get it dirty, don't cross-thread it, and don't damage it). You may also have to work some slack into the O2 sensor wire, there is enough there, you may need to just release a few wire restraints. You may also need to get the CEL fix if you get a CEL after the install.
Note #3 - The easiest way to get all of the bolts off the upper part of the downpipe is with a box-end wrench. The heat shield was the biggest pain about the whole thing I think. Putting it back on will be up to you, but I left mine off, because you usually need to cut off portions of it to get it to fit. Besides, there were just too many damn bolts on that shield to be putting back on.
Note #4 - Check your work (loose pieces/exhaust leaks).
That's about it, most of the nuts/bolts are 10/12/14mm if I remember correctly.
Last edited by Razor; Mar 7, 2003 at 03:33 PM.
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From: Flying on the H1 w/ 75 psi of compression on all 4 cyl
Car Info: PnP VF30 w/ STi injectors Perrin intake walbro fuel pump w/ a TXS TBE
if your curious on how to cut the heat shield so ur intercooler won't
be heat soaked and you'll keep max power at high temps here it is.
be heat soaked and you'll keep max power at high temps here it is.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 206
From: Milpitas, CA
Car Info: Aspen White GDA
Originally posted by Razor
Don't know how loud your car will be since I have a TXS turbo back and is just too damn quiet for me (looking to replace), but your install should go fine.
Here is what I did. I bought a set of Blitz (the gas can company) plastic ramps that have a low incline (no scraping), I put the front end on the ramps, and I jacked up the rear with a block of wood and a floor jack (underneath the pumpkin/rear diff). Ok so now the whole car is lifted nicely, time to roll around on the ground. I removed the stock exhaust from rear to front and saved the downpipe as the last removal. I then installed the aftermarket stuff from front to rear (torque properly). I then took that moment to install my Cusco front swaybar since the fron end was on the ramps.
Note #1 - Put soapy water on the rubber exhaust hangers if they are to tough to get off/on
Note #2 - Be careful with the rear O2 sensor (don't get it dirty, don't cross-thread it, and don't damage it). You may also have to work some slack into the O2 sensor wire, there is enough there, you may need to just release a few wire restraints. You may also need to get the CEL fix if you get a CEL after the install.
Note #3 - The easiest way to get all of the bolts off the upper part of the downpipe is with a box-end wrench. The heat shield was the biggest pain about the whole thing I think. Putting it back on will be up to you, but I left mine off, because you usually need to cut off portions of it to get it to fit. Besides, there were just too many damn bolts on that shield to be putting back on.
Note #4 - Check your work (loose pieces/exhaust leaks).
That's about it, most of the nuts/bolts are 10/12/14mm if I remember correctly.
Don't know how loud your car will be since I have a TXS turbo back and is just too damn quiet for me (looking to replace), but your install should go fine.
Here is what I did. I bought a set of Blitz (the gas can company) plastic ramps that have a low incline (no scraping), I put the front end on the ramps, and I jacked up the rear with a block of wood and a floor jack (underneath the pumpkin/rear diff). Ok so now the whole car is lifted nicely, time to roll around on the ground. I removed the stock exhaust from rear to front and saved the downpipe as the last removal. I then installed the aftermarket stuff from front to rear (torque properly). I then took that moment to install my Cusco front swaybar since the fron end was on the ramps.
Note #1 - Put soapy water on the rubber exhaust hangers if they are to tough to get off/on
Note #2 - Be careful with the rear O2 sensor (don't get it dirty, don't cross-thread it, and don't damage it). You may also have to work some slack into the O2 sensor wire, there is enough there, you may need to just release a few wire restraints. You may also need to get the CEL fix if you get a CEL after the install.
Note #3 - The easiest way to get all of the bolts off the upper part of the downpipe is with a box-end wrench. The heat shield was the biggest pain about the whole thing I think. Putting it back on will be up to you, but I left mine off, because you usually need to cut off portions of it to get it to fit. Besides, there were just too many damn bolts on that shield to be putting back on.
Note #4 - Check your work (loose pieces/exhaust leaks).
That's about it, most of the nuts/bolts are 10/12/14mm if I remember correctly.
The instruction manual suggests removing the intercooler first
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Car Info: 94 T-Leg Sedan and a 00 M5
When you do this, you may want to (if you have the time/MONEY) also do the IC hoses. Getting the IC off/on is not a big deal, but the fewer times you do it, the fewer times you will have the opportunity to crush parts of the IC. Just a thought.
You don't really need to remove the IC, but it is an ABSOLUTE ***** to get at some of the heat shield bolts with it on.
You don't really need to remove the IC, but it is an ABSOLUTE ***** to get at some of the heat shield bolts with it on.
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