I was swapping out plugs so I figured I might as well check compression while everything was out. I did it just after driving, so the engine was pretty hot.

first try engine hot:
Cylinder 1: ~150-153
Cylinder 2: ~155-160
Cylinder 3: 155
Cylinder 4: ~155-160

second try engine hot:
Cylinder 1: 150
Cylinder 2: 155
Cylinder 3: 150
Cylinder 4: 155

third time about an hour or two later, engine was warm, not hot:
Cylinder 1: 155
Cylinder 2: ~160
Cylinder 3: 150
Cylinder 4: ~158

Last try, about 30 mins. after third, engine warm to touch:
Cylinder 1: 150
Cylinder 2: ~160
Cylinder 3: 150
Cylinder 4: ~160

How do these number look? I can see a general trend in that my passenger side bank of cylinders(1+3) seem to be slightly lower than my driver side bank. Should I be worried, or does this sound within normal spec?

 

Those are within the FSM specs I believe.

 

Those reading are very good. If one cyclinder was to read 140 or lower then I would start to worry.

 

I know this is going to sound funny but i did a compression test on my car and it read 70,75,75,65. Car won't hold boost past 11.9 PSI sucks really bad.
I guess what i'm trying to get at is one day i started the car and it was just idling real ruff, but before that when i drove it felt fine. What is the lowest it can read before your car is not drivable? I still drive the car now till i get pistons for my 2.2T but i'm just wondering if i'm going to boost driving up hill and its going to just die?

 

Mario do you still have your original block and heads in? Assuming the CT was done right, I'm surprised you can pull away from a stop in that thing.

 

Yes i still have the original block and heads in. I hope i did the compression test right even though i think its really hard to screw up. I let the engine turn over 8 times and checked the gauge i still pull away from stop lights and sometimes it stil feels strong except when i have the AC on then it really sucks. Car shakes alot too when just sitting there and idling w/ AC on.