custom cat piece to replace stock rear exhaust pipe / resonator
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 38
From: Conway, NH
Car Info: '04 WRX Wagon in Blue
My exhaust setup right now is:
PDE flex uppipe
PDE downpipe (replaces both cats)
stock rear exhaust section / resonator
Prodrive Axle-back
For environmental (and olfactory) reasons, I don't want to stay completely catless for long. I was thinking about having a custom cat piece built for the stock rear section, but I was wondering if it would be effective. Would it get hot enough to do its job? And are there any safety concerns (e.g., too close to gas tank) that I should be aware of? Thanks for your input.
PDE flex uppipe
PDE downpipe (replaces both cats)
stock rear exhaust section / resonator
Prodrive Axle-back
For environmental (and olfactory) reasons, I don't want to stay completely catless for long. I was thinking about having a custom cat piece built for the stock rear section, but I was wondering if it would be effective. Would it get hot enough to do its job? And are there any safety concerns (e.g., too close to gas tank) that I should be aware of? Thanks for your input.
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
I would recommend having the cat welded into the downpipe if it has a sufficiently long, straight section. The closer you get it to the turbo (don't worry, the bellmouth should keep it far enough away not to cause spooling issues) the better it will perform as it will heat up faster. I commend you for reinstalling one now, although expect to lose 5-10 hp.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hey Wagon Joe, I'm actually going to be welding a high flow cat where my resonator is. I'm currently catless and my wife doesn't like the smell... she also doens't know I'm totally catless... she wouldn't like that. So I bought a carsound highflow cat on ebay for $35. I don't think there will be a problem putting it where the resonator is. The 3rd factory cat was right in front of it (before I removed it) so I don't think there should be any problems with it getting hot enough. All I care about is it reducing the smell a bit. And then I can just put the factory third cat back in for emmissions.... (I've got a stromung dp and 3rd cat eliminator). By running a high flow cat in the midpipe as well as putting the stock 3rd cat back in I would think you would be able to pass emissions easily, without having to deal with swapping downpipes. Anyway, I should have it done by the end of this week and I'll let you know how it goes.
Also, If you want to run a cat you would probably get the least performance loss by putting it as far from the turbo as possible, so the midpipe makes sense for that.
Also, If you want to run a cat you would probably get the least performance loss by putting it as far from the turbo as possible, so the midpipe makes sense for that.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Wagon Joe, I just got my carsound high flow cat welded into my midpipe. My midpipe was a 2.5" custom job with an aftermarked resonator where the stock one was (I used to have a loud muffler so my wife made me get a resonator and then she made me ditch the muffler). I had that cut out and the cat put in. I think the cat is actually less restrictive than the resonator was (the inside diameter of the resonator looked like it was less than 2"). It seems to flow better now. But the best, and most important, part is that there is absolutely no stink. It smells (or rather doesn't) like it did when I was running both oem cats. I bought the carsound cat on ebay for $35. It has a 2.5 inch inlet and outlet and is exactly the same as the magnaflow cats (except cheaper). It also has a heat shield on the top half. There is nothing important over the cat anyway.
If you wanted to make a whole new 2.5" midpipe it would only cost you about $90 ( $55 for the pipe and labor and $35 for the cat), that would be using the stock flanges and cutting out the stock pipe. If you wanted to retain the stock midpipe and put in a 2.5" cat it would be even cheaper, probably $55 total.
So in conlusion, it works great. I'm very happy with the result and the cat works perfectly. And since I have a stromung dp and 3rd cat eliminator all I have to do is swap in the stock 3rd cat and it will easily pass emmissions.
hope this helps.
If you wanted to make a whole new 2.5" midpipe it would only cost you about $90 ( $55 for the pipe and labor and $35 for the cat), that would be using the stock flanges and cutting out the stock pipe. If you wanted to retain the stock midpipe and put in a 2.5" cat it would be even cheaper, probably $55 total.
So in conlusion, it works great. I'm very happy with the result and the cat works perfectly. And since I have a stromung dp and 3rd cat eliminator all I have to do is swap in the stock 3rd cat and it will easily pass emmissions.
hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 38
From: Conway, NH
Car Info: '04 WRX Wagon in Blue
That's great news... I just got back from Meineke to get an estimate for the weld job and they didn't want to have anything to do with it. I'll try some smaller shops tomorrow.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Yeah, try a smaller custom shop. They'll usually weld just about anything. Are you planning on having the cat welded to the pipe while it is mounted to the car? I assume you are since your pipe replaces both original cats. I don't know what the laws are like in SLC but here in CA even the custom place wouldn't weld the cat to the pipe while it was on the car. The owner wanted to (a buck is a buck) but in CA it is illegal (with a hefty fine) to weld an aftermarked cat on a new car. So I just removed my midpipe and he was happy to weld it into the pipe. How lame is that.
If you do have to take off your dp for the job make sure you construct a sturdy woodent brace that bolts onto both ends of the pipe so that when the pipe is cut they can maintain the original flange orientation and fit.
Anyway, you may not have to deal with that nonsense in Utah.
Good luck
If you do have to take off your dp for the job make sure you construct a sturdy woodent brace that bolts onto both ends of the pipe so that when the pipe is cut they can maintain the original flange orientation and fit.
Anyway, you may not have to deal with that nonsense in Utah.
Good luck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tofuman
NorCal Classifieds
13
Aug 1, 2009 10:40 PM
stevedood
NorCal Classifieds
12
Jan 10, 2006 05:21 PM
turborambler
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
3
Jun 8, 2004 07:38 PM




