Just get a vf 34 and leave it in till your warranty expires and you can afford all the other bells and whistles. It will still give you a bit of horsepower and other benfits such as quicker spool up and such. You don't really need all the fuel mods if you don't want to go past 230 hp or so. You might end up running a little lean though at higher horsepowers, but not at 200.

 

You can reach 200whp with that setup, try using an MBC though...

 

a VF34 on an otherwise stock car is just a bad idea. you need, at a minimum, a reflash and preferably a catless up-pipe. un-tuned, a VF34 can very easily screw up your car, especially if you use the boost control hoses that come with the VF34. your ECU is tuned around the little mitsubishi turbo, change the turbo and you have to change the ECU. i ran a VF34 under MBC control for a few months and it was no fun. laggy, inconsistent boost, constant fear of blowing something up.

as for wanting to be warranty friendly, why? your car is a 2002 right? has it had any major problems yet? if not, mod away. if it's been a problem car, don't touch it till the warranty is up.

 

dude i am worried how did it lossen the upipe, and send chunks? just from the silencer mod that is no where near anything. I mean unless u got osme huge chunk of something sucked in and ripped the panel filter (which i highly doubt) and somehow got into the engine. crazy ****

hey just to add i picked this up off of helix upipe description. if you read the last sentence i guess upipe have a tendancy to break apart.

Helix Flex-Section Uppipe
The very best bang-for-the-buck performance modification for your scooby. This uppipe yields a 15+ whp gain simply by eliminating the restrictive pre-cat. By eliminating this pre-cat (with only a minor impact on emmissions) faster turbo spoolup as well as significant top-end gains are achieved. Additionally, not only does the flex section absorb torsion caused by hard driving, it eliminates leaks by allowing flanges to seat properly! Furthermore this uppipes eliminates the possibility of your pre-cat breaking away and destroying your turbo over time (has happened before!).
Furthermore this uppipes eliminates the possibility of your pre-cat breaking away and destroying your turbo over time (has happened before!).

 

Sorry to say, but your buddy was a dumb ***. The law VERY clearly states that they have to be able to prove that the mod caused the damage. There is NO WAY IN HELL that removing that part could possibly have any effect on the up pipe pre-cat, and them "denying warranty coverage" on it is illegal. They will always try to deny it first, to see if the customer will just suck it up and pay for it themselves without making any noise. If he would have put any real effort into it, they would have covered it.

 

You're going to go with the Cobb engine managment anyway, might as well go with Accessport and a downpipe....I know what you're thinking but listen...

Access port is an invisible and reversable mod...that with the down pipe alone (stage 2 map) is going to put you at over 200whp.

Obbiously the D/P is a dead give away at the dealer...so, before you go in for warranty work just swap it out for the stock setup...at any performance related muffler shop they can do the job for around $30 or so.

If you don't do all your minor service at your dealer you'll be fine and they'll never know. But if you're **** about it and insist that the dealer do all the work to your car then this setup would be a problem considering they'd see it right away unless you swapped out the exhaust components everytime you went in for an oil change...lol.

forget about all those other mods that claim a half HP here and 5 hp there...I can see if you're building a 500hp monster that maybe intercooler hoses will help squeeze everylast pony out of the engine. But come on, on anything less, you're not going to notice a bit of difference...

AccessPort + Down-Pipe = over 200WHP

 

Let me reiterate.... removing the silencer does nothing! you can pick up debris easier with the silencer removed, but that's it.

 

sounds like you had a crap mbc.

 

pulling 2 out of 3 cats does not alter things as much as meilers would have you believe.

as a matter of fact, the oem midpipe can be picked up cheap along with the up pipe. gut them both, put a resistor in the egt harness, retain the DP cat and the axleback, and no one will be the wiser.

part of the key is to do it NOW, and let the nuts get rusty and settled. hell, if you're paranoid, cross thread as many as you can, so it REALLY looks authentic! nothing says warranty denial like a shiny nut and clean bolt threads.