What fluids to use in your Subaru
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From: tucson
Car Info: '00 red impreza RS sedan w/ Borla hdr., Tanabe S. Medallion, P-slots,MSD wires, AEM, AGXs, Eibachs.
Fluids
So, I run all Redline as we are a dealer for them. I believe that their gearoils DO all have the friction mod. that is available separate in them already. This is the crazy thing though, after 15,000 miles I did not really like them. I could feel a lot of ring backlash. So, I switched to what they call their "shock-proof" gear oil (lt.wgth) and man do I love it. Now, if someone could help me with which brakefluid to run (currently Valvoline Synthetic) and PLEASE a good ATF fluid for our tranny, I would be saved. After 150.00 my cost worth of Redline D4 and Merc 3 mix found it to be a waste and thought I broke the car! '00 RS sedan. thanks.
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Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by gianttcr
So, I run all Redline as we are a dealer for them. I believe that their gearoils DO all have the friction mod. that is available separate in them already. This is the crazy thing though, after 15,000 miles I did not really like them. I could feel a lot of ring backlash. So, I switched to what they call their "shock-proof" gear oil (lt.wgth) and man do I love it. Now, if someone could help me with which brakefluid to run (currently Valvoline Synthetic) and PLEASE a good ATF fluid for our tranny, I would be saved. After 150.00 my cost worth of Redline D4 and Merc 3 mix found it to be a waste and thought I broke the car! '00 RS sedan. thanks.
So, I run all Redline as we are a dealer for them. I believe that their gearoils DO all have the friction mod. that is available separate in them already. This is the crazy thing though, after 15,000 miles I did not really like them. I could feel a lot of ring backlash. So, I switched to what they call their "shock-proof" gear oil (lt.wgth) and man do I love it. Now, if someone could help me with which brakefluid to run (currently Valvoline Synthetic) and PLEASE a good ATF fluid for our tranny, I would be saved. After 150.00 my cost worth of Redline D4 and Merc 3 mix found it to be a waste and thought I broke the car! '00 RS sedan. thanks.
Originally posted by Sugo001
what kind of oil should i use for my 4AT
what kind of oil should i use for my 4AT
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Posts: 7
From: tucson
Car Info: '00 red impreza RS sedan w/ Borla hdr., Tanabe S. Medallion, P-slots,MSD wires, AEM, AGXs, Eibachs.
consensus
Yep. I heard the 4eat is a bit funny with full synthetics. I just had the tranny flushed with regular ATF and kept that in there. Seems to work all right but man, that tranny sure does suck! Besides the interior falling apart and NO dealer/manufac. support, it is the ONE thing I hate about the car. I don't know about the rest of you with the auto, but mine seems to try to shift to 4th within 50ft or so. Coaxing a downshift makes me look like I'm trying to race the guy in the Cutless Supreme EVERY time! It's either all or nothing. I find I have to autostick the car in order to keep it in the pwrband and it sucks! I wish someone would rewrite the shift code in the ECU for these d%*n things!
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has anyone tried valvoline's ATF 4x4 synthetic blend Dexron 3 in their Auto trans WRX?
I realize that though the thing holds ~10 quarts, you can really only add 4 or 5 without special equipment, so it's best to add something compatible with dino ATF Dexron 3
Any thoughts on Mobil 1 75W90 for the auto's fr and rear differentials?
I agree that factory coolant is most likely best for this radiator.
I realize that though the thing holds ~10 quarts, you can really only add 4 or 5 without special equipment, so it's best to add something compatible with dino ATF Dexron 3
Any thoughts on Mobil 1 75W90 for the auto's fr and rear differentials?
I agree that factory coolant is most likely best for this radiator.
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Originally Posted by meilers
Thanks for the excellent post. However, I'd like to add the following:
Be VERY CAREFUL what engine coolant you use -- it must be completely safe for ALUMINUM ENGINES specifically. There are a few low-cost brands out there (Peak, for one) that contain silicates which can degrade an aluminum radiator and even cause engine block wear. Both my dealer and their lead shop mechanic said WRX models in particular should use the factory Subaru fluid (which they sell in gallong jugs as well) and nothing else, because of this danger. Normally I would be skeptical, but the mechanic pointed out that they could actually make more money selling a brand-name fluid to customers -- they would just rather take the loss and avoid replacing radiators under warranty
For the record, I run factory subaru coolant (which is premixed 50/50 with water) + 1 jug of distilled ionized water + 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
Be VERY CAREFUL what engine coolant you use -- it must be completely safe for ALUMINUM ENGINES specifically. There are a few low-cost brands out there (Peak, for one) that contain silicates which can degrade an aluminum radiator and even cause engine block wear. Both my dealer and their lead shop mechanic said WRX models in particular should use the factory Subaru fluid (which they sell in gallong jugs as well) and nothing else, because of this danger. Normally I would be skeptical, but the mechanic pointed out that they could actually make more money selling a brand-name fluid to customers -- they would just rather take the loss and avoid replacing radiators under warranty
For the record, I run factory subaru coolant (which is premixed 50/50 with water) + 1 jug of distilled ionized water + 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally Posted by supertek75
I just noticed today that my coolant is running low. Can I just go to a Subaru dealership and purchase a jug of their coolant solution and pour it directly into the coolant tank, or do I have to do a whole flush of my system and pour in the Subaru coolant solutin + the jug of distilled water and possibly the bottle of Redline Water Weter? I know that this is totally a noob's question, but how else are noobs to learn if they don't ask.
Originally Posted by Tinkerbelbarbie
Any one have any comments on using amsoil? I've always preferred it in my sports cars but now I have a new Baja and don't know what to do with it (except maybe sell it).
Thanks!
Thanks!
I use Amsoil product in my WRX. The exception has been the manual transmission. I use regular dino oil as of right now. That may change in a week or so... I use their ATF for power steering fluid, 5w-30 series 3000 oil for the engine and their 75w-90 gear oil for the differential. I use the stock oem oil filter as it is inexpensive and works very well.
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Anything better?
I use that Castrol Synthetic for High Mileage oil for my 94.. would there be anything better for the engine than that?
Transmission is usually done by my subaru mechanic... so i have no idea what he uses.
Coolant: cheap walmart stuff..
Transmission is usually done by my subaru mechanic... so i have no idea what he uses.
Coolant: cheap walmart stuff..
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
so just to be very sure that I am not able to use Amsoil 75W90 or 80W90 gear oil in my JDM 6spd tranny since it will be to "slippery" for the synchros?
Since I can get amsoil I'd like to use it... Will I be able to use the 75W90 or 80W90 in my R180? What about the Front Diff?
I guess since this is an expensive tranny... what would be the best fluid to use that won't **** up my tranny that I could use in it?
Since I can get amsoil I'd like to use it... Will I be able to use the 75W90 or 80W90 in my R180? What about the Front Diff?
I guess since this is an expensive tranny... what would be the best fluid to use that won't **** up my tranny that I could use in it?
Last edited by iNfEk; Jan 10, 2005 at 12:56 AM.
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Originally Posted by BAN SUVS
This post was a reply I made in the transmission forum, but since it covered most all fluids in the car I felt it was worth sticking here. Please post your additional comments and recommendations, but post a WHY with your WHAT. One-liners like "I use Marvel Mystery Oil in my gearbox" will be removed, as well as get you laughed at.
Keep it on-topic and informative. This isn't a poll.
Here's my personal fluid recommendations. They aren't the only solution, others will post different choices, but there is no "one" right answer in this case.
Engine oil: 5w30 full synthetic in colder climates. I usually use Mobil 1, but any full synthetic will do. Other favorites are Redline, Neo, Motul, Royal Purple, etc.
Gearbox: Synchro care is critical. There is much debate about what is good for the gearbox. I recently had 75w90 Royal Purple added when I changed my clutch and flywheel, and I don't think it's good for our gearboxes. This is because it is too slick- the synchros can't grab and this helps cause grinding. I will be switching to 75w90NS Redline or Neo 75w90 RHD when I install my 6MT, as these have what are called "friction modifiers" which help the synchros to work faster. Others will say to simply use the factory fluid, but nobody seems to have a certain grasp on exactly what it is or where to get it. Most dealers simply use plain 75w90 dino gear oil for their changes. Yet another option (bet you thought you were just gonna get some real quick answers for you to run to the auto parts store with, huh?
) is to try a 'cocktail' of different oils, usually including dino oil or what is known as GM Synchromesh. Before you settle on what to get, do a lot of searching and reading and decide on what you want to do for your own reasons. Gear oil is a compromise- choose according to what you think is most important. Again, I will be going with a synthetic 75w90 with limited slip additive. Your RS has a limited slip rear diff, so use the same stuff you put in the gearbox.
Coolant: Use whatever you want, as long as you flush out the old stuff entirely. Rather than running a 50/50 mix, try going with about 65% water/ 35% coolant. The coolant is there to not freeze and not boil- water is the best heat exchanger. I also recommend using a product like Redline Water Wetter. The car will run cooler with no other mods.
Brake fluid: I use ATE SuperBlue Racing, but like engine oil, any full synthetic DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid from a name brand will do. Everyone has their favorite. Avoid DOT 5 fluids if you like to drive hard.
Clutch: Same as brake fluid. Shouldn't need to be changed, but bleeding it wouldn't hurt. Bleeding it, however, will require a refill so it might as well be flushed.
Boost fluid: Just kidding.
Cheers,
Kevin
Keep it on-topic and informative. This isn't a poll.Here's my personal fluid recommendations. They aren't the only solution, others will post different choices, but there is no "one" right answer in this case.
Engine oil: 5w30 full synthetic in colder climates. I usually use Mobil 1, but any full synthetic will do. Other favorites are Redline, Neo, Motul, Royal Purple, etc.
Gearbox: Synchro care is critical. There is much debate about what is good for the gearbox. I recently had 75w90 Royal Purple added when I changed my clutch and flywheel, and I don't think it's good for our gearboxes. This is because it is too slick- the synchros can't grab and this helps cause grinding. I will be switching to 75w90NS Redline or Neo 75w90 RHD when I install my 6MT, as these have what are called "friction modifiers" which help the synchros to work faster. Others will say to simply use the factory fluid, but nobody seems to have a certain grasp on exactly what it is or where to get it. Most dealers simply use plain 75w90 dino gear oil for their changes. Yet another option (bet you thought you were just gonna get some real quick answers for you to run to the auto parts store with, huh?
) is to try a 'cocktail' of different oils, usually including dino oil or what is known as GM Synchromesh. Before you settle on what to get, do a lot of searching and reading and decide on what you want to do for your own reasons. Gear oil is a compromise- choose according to what you think is most important. Again, I will be going with a synthetic 75w90 with limited slip additive. Your RS has a limited slip rear diff, so use the same stuff you put in the gearbox.Coolant: Use whatever you want, as long as you flush out the old stuff entirely. Rather than running a 50/50 mix, try going with about 65% water/ 35% coolant. The coolant is there to not freeze and not boil- water is the best heat exchanger. I also recommend using a product like Redline Water Wetter. The car will run cooler with no other mods.
Brake fluid: I use ATE SuperBlue Racing, but like engine oil, any full synthetic DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid from a name brand will do. Everyone has their favorite. Avoid DOT 5 fluids if you like to drive hard.
Clutch: Same as brake fluid. Shouldn't need to be changed, but bleeding it wouldn't hurt. Bleeding it, however, will require a refill so it might as well be flushed.
Boost fluid: Just kidding.

Cheers,
Kevin
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally Posted by ej20boost
i replaced the trans fluid with royal purple trans oil in my '03 wrx 5MT. it doesnt seem to grind. i dont know, its been pretty smooth for me(no grinding for a week and a half). when did it start grinding? right after you replaced it?


