Tranny grinds upon shifting into 1st gear...NEED HELP
01-22-2004, 06:04 PM
#1
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Car Info: Black 03 WRX
Tranny grinds upon shifting into 1st gear...NEED HELP
I have a problen that has surfaced recently. This happens on occasion and when it does it is pretty spuratic. When I am stopped at a light and go to shift into first gear (when I am about to go), it will sometimes bash the gears and it jolts through my wrist with quite a bit of force. This also occurs sometimes when I shift from second or third to first with the clutch in all the way when I am about to come to a stop. It gets even worse sometimes when I am on a hill and it starts rolling back a few inches. Sometimes the car will just refuse to go into first gear (that is usually on cold morning and pumping the clutch solves that problem). I have 23k on the car and I changed the tranny oil to the Mobil 75w-90 stuff which is supposed to be pretty good. My clutch is fine and nothing else in the car has thrown out any issues yet.Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on. I think it is either the syncros or the clutch is loose or something like that.
The tricky part is that I am taking it to the dealership tomorrow to ge tit checked out and the guy called me to inform me that transmission problems that have those symptoms are usually caused by the owner's abuse and might not be covered by warranty. Little does he know that the car has seen the redline like 3 times in its life, I have no performace mods other than a prodrive exhaust for sound, and the resonator cut off and the 3/16 vacuum connector. I have been constantly changing the oil at 5000 miles and I shift at 3300 rpm so there is no abuse there unless someone test-drove it and killed it before I bought it (have you it has about 50 miles when I bought it). If they do deny my claim I will simply go apesh!t in there (since I used to work for them I think I should be ok though).
My next question is...short of buying an STi tranny or something like that, what can I do to make my tranny STRONDER and smoother? I was thinking about replacing 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears along with the syncros but I think it would probably cost a much as a better tranny. Has anyone used the APS gearset and is there anything similar to that but cost efficient?
The tricky part is that I am taking it to the dealership tomorrow to ge tit checked out and the guy called me to inform me that transmission problems that have those symptoms are usually caused by the owner's abuse and might not be covered by warranty. Little does he know that the car has seen the redline like 3 times in its life, I have no performace mods other than a prodrive exhaust for sound, and the resonator cut off and the 3/16 vacuum connector. I have been constantly changing the oil at 5000 miles and I shift at 3300 rpm so there is no abuse there unless someone test-drove it and killed it before I bought it (have you it has about 50 miles when I bought it). If they do deny my claim I will simply go apesh!t in there (since I used to work for them I think I should be ok though).
My next question is...short of buying an STi tranny or something like that, what can I do to make my tranny STRONDER and smoother? I was thinking about replacing 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears along with the syncros but I think it would probably cost a much as a better tranny. Has anyone used the APS gearset and is there anything similar to that but cost efficient?
01-22-2004, 07:06 PM
#3
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"I changed the tranny oil to the Mobil 75w-90 stuff which is supposed to be pretty good"
Opinions vary. One school of thought is that this is too slick and doesn't have the appropriate friction to let the synchro's do their thing. Dealer can put in the right lube.
"pumping the clutch solves that problem"
Sounds like the clutch may have some air in the fluid and not be releasing fully. Dealer can bleed it.
As for the phone call, that's not uncommon. Don't get all fired up about it unless and until they actually do something unfair.
With 23K miles, you'll probably have to pay for the lube change, the clutch bleed probably free.
Opinions vary. One school of thought is that this is too slick and doesn't have the appropriate friction to let the synchro's do their thing. Dealer can put in the right lube.
"pumping the clutch solves that problem"
Sounds like the clutch may have some air in the fluid and not be releasing fully. Dealer can bleed it.
As for the phone call, that's not uncommon. Don't get all fired up about it unless and until they actually do something unfair.
With 23K miles, you'll probably have to pay for the lube change, the clutch bleed probably free.
01-23-2004, 03:52 AM
#5
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Ya sound like you may need to change your tranny fluid, like OldGuy said synthetic is too slippery and doesnt provide the synchros with the friction they require to work.
And short of getting a new tranny u can try getting a new gearset, or get a dogbox
And short of getting a new tranny u can try getting a new gearset, or get a dogbox
01-23-2004, 01:27 PM
#6
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Have the dealer put the OEM fluid in, or better yet go to a GM dealer and get some SynchroMesh. Good stuff. Also, remember that you CANNOT downshift into first gear. At all. You never need to make up the .5 seconds going around a slow corner, and it's very very hard on your synchro to try.
01-23-2004, 04:00 PM
#8
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or when rolling backwards...
You should select first while at a stop and then start going.
You should never select first (or any forward gear) while rolling back, thats just uneeded stress on the synchros.
Excessive rolling back should be avoided using the hand brake or hill holder, but in any case you should already be in gear before you get off the footbrake.
You should never select first (or any forward gear) while rolling back, thats just uneeded stress on the synchros.
Excessive rolling back should be avoided using the hand brake or hill holder, but in any case you should already be in gear before you get off the footbrake.
01-24-2004, 07:40 AM
#9
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Let me add another thought here.
A lot of the complaints describe a situation where it sounds like the driver is sitting at a light (Or on a hill) with the trans in neutral and the clutch out. They then get grinding when they depress the clutch and select either 1st or reverse.
Here's a problem with that.
Sitting in neutral with the clutch out, the input shaft to the trans (Coming from the negine) is spinning and the output shaft (Going to the wheels) is stationery (Or turning backwards if you happen to be rolling back down that hill).
When you depress the clutch, the input shaft is still spinning from the momentum of the spinning that was happening. It takes a couple of seconds for it to stop due to the friction in the bearings, sloshing through the lube, etc..
When you attempt to engage the gears with one shaft spinning and the other stopped, you're going to get some grinding. This is more likely in 1st or reverse because of the low ratios of those gears. Not going to happen so much if you go neutral to 2nd, for instance.
There are two easy cures.
1. Don't sit at the light in neutral with the clutch out. Just select first and depress the clutch and hold it while you wait. It's very minor wear on the throwout bearing, but it's going to last longer than the clutch disc anyway. Also good exercise fot the left leg.
2. If you're gong to do the neutral/clutch out thing, just wait a couple of seconds after you depress the clutch for everything to slow down or stop. You can usually see the yellow for traffic in the other direction and get a head start so you don't hold up traffic while you wait.
My practice, select 1st and hold the clutch. Been doing it for over 40 years and the only times I've ever had grindind was if a clutch needed bleeding (Hydrolic) or adjustment (Cable).
A lot of the complaints describe a situation where it sounds like the driver is sitting at a light (Or on a hill) with the trans in neutral and the clutch out. They then get grinding when they depress the clutch and select either 1st or reverse.
Here's a problem with that.
Sitting in neutral with the clutch out, the input shaft to the trans (Coming from the negine) is spinning and the output shaft (Going to the wheels) is stationery (Or turning backwards if you happen to be rolling back down that hill).
When you depress the clutch, the input shaft is still spinning from the momentum of the spinning that was happening. It takes a couple of seconds for it to stop due to the friction in the bearings, sloshing through the lube, etc..
When you attempt to engage the gears with one shaft spinning and the other stopped, you're going to get some grinding. This is more likely in 1st or reverse because of the low ratios of those gears. Not going to happen so much if you go neutral to 2nd, for instance.
There are two easy cures.
1. Don't sit at the light in neutral with the clutch out. Just select first and depress the clutch and hold it while you wait. It's very minor wear on the throwout bearing, but it's going to last longer than the clutch disc anyway. Also good exercise fot the left leg.
2. If you're gong to do the neutral/clutch out thing, just wait a couple of seconds after you depress the clutch for everything to slow down or stop. You can usually see the yellow for traffic in the other direction and get a head start so you don't hold up traffic while you wait.
My practice, select 1st and hold the clutch. Been doing it for over 40 years and the only times I've ever had grindind was if a clutch needed bleeding (Hydrolic) or adjustment (Cable).
01-30-2004, 04:48 PM
#11
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not to be an a$$ but you can just pull out in 2 gear, the rs has ore then enough power to even get out in third, but i have noticed that craking/grinding when down shifting into 1st gear when coming to a stop and the going again, i just don't do it any more i just leave it in second, and pull out, especially if you are at a 4 way stop, and you are the only one there, got to second, rolla bit and take off, if not you most of the time have to stop dead before the stick will pop into 1st,(actually it it would be home that the stick pops into) anyways that is what i have noticed.
02-08-2004, 11:12 PM
#12
Dahveed aka Robin Hood
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one thing people need to realize:
just because you put the clutch in, doesn't mean you can put the tranny in whatever gear you want!
when the clutch pedal is depressed, the engine and tranny are disconnected, but the wheels are still connected to the tranny, so you have to be more careful...RPMs will always save you...that and NEO oil!
just because you put the clutch in, doesn't mean you can put the tranny in whatever gear you want!
when the clutch pedal is depressed, the engine and tranny are disconnected, but the wheels are still connected to the tranny, so you have to be more careful...RPMs will always save you...that and NEO oil!
02-18-2004, 02:36 PM
#13
Re: Tranny grinds upon shifting into 1st gear...NEED HELP
Originally posted by rustokman
This also occurs sometimes when I shift from second or third to first with the clutch in all the way when I am about to come to a stop.
This also occurs sometimes when I shift from second or third to first with the clutch in all the way when I am about to come to a stop.
could most of the 1st gear grinds reported be caused by downshifting into 1st?
02-19-2004, 03:01 PM
#15
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The dealer told me that they couldn't find anything and weren't willing to do anymore investigative work without any symptoms. I asked them to bleed my clutch and they didn't want to do it so I just left. I have come to the conclusion that synthetic oil is too slick and the synchros don't have enough friction to grab the bear in time and so even at a stop I have to put it into first very VERY carefully. I am planning on changing out my tranny oil (don't use mobil 1 synthetic or any synthetic for that matter, its good for racing but not for street driving.) I don't know whether I want to mix a tranny oil cocktail or just get some of the GM synchromesh stuff and just forget about it.
LMK if anyone has any suggestions.
LMK if anyone has any suggestions.