Please help me diagnose clicking noise
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From: Sunnyvale
Car Info: 2003 WRX Wgn
Please help me diagnose clicking noise
'03 wagon, only suspension mod is RSB and links.
There is a faint clicking sound as I drive, which speeds up as I drive faster. Sounds like it is coming from the drivetrain.
I jacked the car up and gave all the rims a good shake, didn't feel any play.
Could this be the cv joint/boot? Or an axle/tranny issue?
Any help is appreciated.
There is a faint clicking sound as I drive, which speeds up as I drive faster. Sounds like it is coming from the drivetrain.
I jacked the car up and gave all the rims a good shake, didn't feel any play.
Could this be the cv joint/boot? Or an axle/tranny issue?
Any help is appreciated.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 118
From: Dallas, TX
Car Info: 04 WRX
what rims do you have? do they clear your calipers? this is definatly a drivetran problem seeing as how it gets louder as you accelerate. have you checked under the car? could just be a piece of plastic stuck under there. do you have any mods? ie dp/up? i get a click nose cause i didnt replace my gaskets and reused the old ones.
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From: Sunnyvale
Car Info: 2003 WRX Wgn
Appreciate the help:
I have tarmac II's, but these are not the issue. Clicking is not my dp, as it is secured well. Seems odd that you get clicking from not having replaced the gaskets.
I'm leaning to a cv/axle problem. I didn't see any large tears of the boot, but it is possible I need to take a closer look.
Anybody else experience a similar "clicking"?
I have tarmac II's, but these are not the issue. Clicking is not my dp, as it is secured well. Seems odd that you get clicking from not having replaced the gaskets.
I'm leaning to a cv/axle problem. I didn't see any large tears of the boot, but it is possible I need to take a closer look.
Anybody else experience a similar "clicking"?
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From: Sunnyvale
Car Info: 2003 WRX Wgn
Shazam- Fluids OK. The clicking occasionally stops (or is les noticable) whan a let off the gas. No clicking with wheel cranked full left/right in forward or reverse. I'm beginning to rule out CV joint.
jon- It might be, but my experience is that a bad wheel bearing will have tell-tale wheel play, and I didn't notice any.
I may take this in to have someone more experienced take a look. Thanks for all your help
jon- It might be, but my experience is that a bad wheel bearing will have tell-tale wheel play, and I didn't notice any.
I may take this in to have someone more experienced take a look. Thanks for all your help
try to isolate where the sound is coming from.
If its in the rear it might be a pinion bearing in the diff.
To check for that, get under the car and press up on the bottom of the drive shaft where it goes into the diff. if it moves a considerable amount your bearing is toast. if you caught it in time you might just have to replace the bearing but if not youll need a new rear diff.
If its in the rear it might be a pinion bearing in the diff.
To check for that, get under the car and press up on the bottom of the drive shaft where it goes into the diff. if it moves a considerable amount your bearing is toast. if you caught it in time you might just have to replace the bearing but if not youll need a new rear diff.
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Car Info: 07' AW 335i & 05' WD Escalade
r u sure that noise isnt coming from your engine. it could just be the sound of your vavles. ask 4urabus exactly what it is. i remember him saying something about it once but i forgot. from what i understand, its normal in subarus. i get that same ticking sound as well.
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From: Modesto/Sacramento
Car Info: 07' AW 335i & 05' WD Escalade
Originally Posted by Snot Rod/4URABUS
I think it has more to do with the fact that our cars are not equipped with hydraulic tappets/cam followers. Subaru has to design in some extra clearance between the tip of the valve and the cam follower to compensate for thermal expansion of the different metals when the engine warms up. As the engine wears, these clearances can also vary. As the tip of the valve, tips of the cam follower, and camshaft wears, the clearance becomes greater. As the valve seats recede over time, the clearances are reduced. IIRC, the owner's manual calls for a valve adjustment at 105K miles.
My first car was a '66 Chevy Corvair, and it had a rear-mounted, air-cooled flat-six. It also had hydraulic valve lifters, so it didn't experience the same kind valve clatter that an air-cooled VW Bug engine does, which has solid tappets.
Keep in mind, the fuel injectors tend to be "talkative" as well.
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Indeed!
In case anyone is interested, the clicking sound was my Borla hush muffler against the CV joint sleeve. The joint sleeve is out of round, so every time it would go 'round it would click against the muffler pipe.
Solution: Longer muffler hangers.
It was Mike at Speedelement that helped me out with this. Muchos Gracias!
In case anyone is interested, the clicking sound was my Borla hush muffler against the CV joint sleeve. The joint sleeve is out of round, so every time it would go 'round it would click against the muffler pipe.
Solution: Longer muffler hangers.
It was Mike at Speedelement that helped me out with this. Muchos Gracias!
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