Conversions, Transplants, & Swaps Anything from the EJ20 into an RS to port-a-potties into an STi. Anything about engine and tranny swapping.

WRX Swapped GC wont start: Help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-26-2009, 06:46 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Dynapar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 163
WRX Swapped GC wont start: Help

Well I got an EJ205 into my 95L. I have had the harnesses merged, and I built up the motor from the short block following the factory service manual. I got it all in yesterday afternoon and tried to start it up. It will crank over just fine, however will not fire.

I checked the CEL and pulled off the following codes:

P0122
P0118
P0183
P0108
P1086
P0188
P0122
P0118
P0183

It did throw a couple of them twice. I have since added 2 grounds one from the block and another from the intake manifold to each strut tower. Still to no effect. These codes all related to the intake manifold harness, ie coolant temp sensor and throttle positioning sensor. These all use a resistance to ground circuit so that is why I have double checked all of the factory, and added some more grounds.

Major mods which may be relevant include 690cc/min injectors and TGV deletes. Which would effect how it runs and idles, since I havent had it tuned yet, but I do see those mods not allowing it to start.

If anyone has experienced this issue before or has any insight please post it up. I want to get this sorted out quickly.
Dynapar is offline  
Old 07-26-2009, 07:06 PM
  #2  
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
knock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: pergatory
Posts: 794
Car Info: bici putas
Block to chassis grounds will have little to do with this problem, as would the injectors and deletes. It sounds like there are major discrepancies in your wiring merge, causing the ECU to not recognize vital engine sensors. If you haven't messed with the physical wiring from the ECU to engine harness I recommend you make sure the ECU ground distribution is correct and working.

The stock engine harness has grounding that must be attached to the intake manifold, so that the sensors and ECU share a common ground. If this has been changed there will certainly be issues with ECU communication.

Other than wiring issues, I don't see anything that would cause that block of CEL's. My suggestion is quintuple-check your diagrams and go through the changes completely.


I fought with wiring issues on my swap for much longer than I'd be proud to admit.....
knock is offline  
Old 07-26-2009, 09:17 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Dynapar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 163
Thanks for the input. I have the two grounds on the manifold harness connected to the intake manifold. the one smaller one on the passenger side and the large beefy one on the drivers side, are there any that I could be missing? There is one ground wire on right by the ECU that looks like it goes into this harness, I have double checked this by connecting it to the chassis as a ground and got the same results. I will examine my diagrams for more grounds.
Dynapar is offline  
Old 07-27-2009, 12:55 PM
  #4  
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
knock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: pergatory
Posts: 794
Car Info: bici putas
hmm, checking resistance to ground works o.k., but you need to know that the actual ground distribution is correct, so you need to make a patchcord with anything (I used one with alligator clips) and use a small needle to check circuit continuity with your multimeter. The ECU has ground collector lugs for the sensors/shields and if this isn't 100% you'll get ground loops in the vital lowvoltage circuits. The resistance to chassis ground doesn't always mean it's a dedicated ground wire, and it could be wreaking all kinds of havoc on signals.

It'd also be a good idea, if you can, to check realtime voltages (i wish I had a fluke meter w/ oscilloscope) of the sensor pinouts at the ECU with a *small* needle while the system is powered. This only works on non-waveform voltages.

Since most of the sensors involved in the codes are two wire, they also may be backwards and the ecu is getting a reversed circuit.... which is all bad.

Best advise I can think of is to re-wire the car on paper, and don't involve the car. This got my car to where it is today. Once you have a nice and neat personal diagram, dive back into the wires and it will be much easier.

Godspeed!
knock is offline  
Old 07-27-2009, 01:46 PM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Dynapar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 163
Thanks for the help.

I am just getting ready to start in on this again. I am going to first off inspect all of the plugs to ensure that all of the pins are present, then check my ground continuity on the IM grounds. After that I am going to test the resistance on the plugs to see if a sensor is bad. I am curious if 1 bad sensor would mess up all of the other ones.

The ECU ground connector lugs you speak of, where about are they located? I want to check these and verify that they are all at 100% as well.
Dynapar is offline  
Old 07-27-2009, 06:38 PM
  #6  
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
knock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: pergatory
Posts: 794
Car Info: bici putas
ground lugs are the plastic things in the wire protector that feeds the ecu plug connectores
knock is offline  
Old 07-27-2009, 08:24 PM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Dynapar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 163
I got it running!!! I pulled off the plugs for those sensors that were throwing the codes. The TPS, MAP, and Coolant temp sensor were all throwing codes. The TPS and MAF are on the throttle body. There are 3 sensors there, so I disconnected them all and tested continuity from the ground pin on the plug to the intake manifold (known ground). The MAP and TPS both had no continuity, same with the coolant temp sensor. The 3rd plug on the TB (I am not too sure what it is) did have continuity. Upon closer inspection the ground wire going to the 3 sensors that were not grounded was the same color (black w/ green stripe). I assumed that these 3 sensors shared a ground (same color wire). I then found where that wire connected to, which was the black plug by the battery. Where it changed to Red w/ Green stripe. I followed this wire into the car and to the large junction plug which as the 10mm bolt through it. I verified continuity from the sensors to this plug. The plug seemed tight but with some wiggling and twisting I got the bolt a bit tighter (better connection) and hooked everything back up. That did it!

Having tightened that plug I turned it over and it fired right up (even with the TPS, MAP, and coolant temp sensor all unplugged! I plugged them in and it ran much better ;-) ).

Now that it runs it is throwing some more codes, but different ones that I will have to look into. I know that there are still the TGV ones and now it looks like there is an 02 sensor one ( I am not running a rear O2, just going to remove the CEL with the openecu tune since it doesnt do anything).

So know I am going to see how important these CELs are:

P1086
P0447
P1094
P1096
P0183
P0188
P0463
P0183
P1400
Dynapar is offline  
Old 07-28-2009, 12:38 PM
  #8  
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
knock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: pergatory
Posts: 794
Car Info: bici putas
Right on! gnarly codes though
knock is offline  
Old 07-28-2009, 01:45 PM
  #9  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Dynapar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 163
^ Yeah.

These all appear to be either for TGVs or for fuel sensors that my car doesnt have. So I think I am in the clear....
Dynapar is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SubieDude05
Subaru General
7
09-27-2013 10:52 AM
krillz
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
4
07-02-2003 04:37 AM
DDImpreza
Engine/Power - non turbo (All non turbo Imprezas)
8
05-28-2003 03:10 PM
KnightRider
Bay Area
8
12-31-2002 04:24 PM



Quick Reply: WRX Swapped GC wont start: Help



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:45 PM.