I have a 97 Brighton with a leaky 1.8, and found a 98 ej22 cheap and am in the middle of the swap, and found that the electrical connectors are different. Aside from feeling pretty stupid, im a little worried about getting this beast back on the road. The 1.8s harness has 2 large 4x4 row connectors, while the 2.2 has 1 4x4, one 3x3 (if i remember correctly) and then a small 2x3 kinda floating around. My question is this- do I trace and splice wires and make my existing harnesses work, or swap parts off the old 1.8, like intake manifold and whatever else to make the wiring not an issue, or chuck the 2.2 and rebuild my old oil leaking breathless 1.8? Or are there some other options out there that im not aware of? Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

oh boy oh boy..........is ur car a awd or fwd. i'mdoing a 94 1.8L to a 2002 awd rs. u need to find the wiring harness for ur year of the car then also find the wiring harness for the car ur doing the swap with.if u need the wiring harness for the 94 let me know in a pm. if not go to this site to get wiring harnesses for all cars
http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp tho it cost money i's worth it..

 

I just did a similar thing...

Take off both intake manifolds, flip em' over and swap out the engine harnesses. It should be only a few plugs.

Crank angle sensors, coolant temp, injectors, Knock sensor, egr solenoid (if so equipped) Idle air control, throttle position sensor, Evap purge solenoid, coil pack (may as well change the whole thing) and I think that's it. You may need to change the coolant temp sensor from the three wire to the two wire one... it screws right in the same place.

The engines will bolt up just fine... the wiring is the hard part and this swap is very straight forward so the wiring is quite simple.

 

thanks a lot for the help guys. i was almost frustrated enough to try and get another engine, or rebuild the 1.8.....which would be pretty futile, to try and put all that time and money into such a gutless motor. ill try messing around with it this week and get back. thanks again!

 

ok, wiring harness is swapped over, only one splice (throttle position sensor). Thanks again for the help! only one problem remains- on the passenger side of the block, underneath the intake manifold theres this bulbous cast aluminum thing that has lines connecting it to the metal coolant tract on top of the block. the sensor that is attached to it clipped onto a similar unit mounted on the throttle body of the 1.8, but now theres this port that i have no idea where it goes, what goes through it or where to hook it to. it looks similar in size to the metal pipes that connect to the rubber lines running from the heater core, so my first guess was some coolant line that my car doesnt have. but it could be a vacuum line too, and since its located pretty much underneath the airbox i was wondering if it went to that. im stumped on this one, any help is appreciated.

 

I think you're refering to the throttle body "heat". from right to left... This will be a coolant line that runs from the crossover tube two inches inboard of the coolant temperature then on some cars like 2.2's and 2.5 dohc-- through the idle air control valve, up through the throttle body and back down into the block (vertically)

The coolant line is fairly close to where the knock sensor is and about even with the top starter bolt in about three inches from the edge of the block.

What you can do... take a single hose and connect the two lonblock-side hoses and bypass the throttle body alltogether or you can run it through the throttlebody-- it only matters in the cold weather or where it's really humid.

 

ok cool, so its the IAC im messing with. the iac on the original 1.8 is on the throttle body, wheras on the 2.2 its below the intake manifold. i see the "heat" lines you are referring to, and both of those are intact. but there is a larger port on the IAC itself that i dont know where it runs to. at least now i know its not coolant, so its probably vacuum, right? would i be better off trying to somehow adapt my 1.8 Throttle body to the 2.2's manifold and block off the original IAC, or do you know what i can do about that open port? thanks again instructorbill!

 

no not vacuum... intake.

It should be a 3/4 inch hose that runs to the under-side of your intake plenum pretty close to the mass airflow sensor.

 

since my 1.8 plenum doesnt have the fitting for that hose, could i just drill and attach my own im assuming? and on the engine side of the MAF, not the intake side correct? your a life saver by the way.

 

yeah. remember that that line/fitting/hose can't have any "leaks" any air leaks will equate to an un-metered air leak.

Vacuum leaks are bad and the computer will not know what to do with them... seal the fitting well and hose clamp both ends.

 

oh.... yeah.... you're correct. Put it on the engine side of the MAF.

 

great! thanks alot instructorbill, youve been a huge help. hopefully she starts right up

 

I'm glad I was able to help

 

well crap. got the wiring all swapped over, all hooked up, and she wont start. it smells like at least one of my plugs is not getting gas, but i am getting spark. bad injectors you think? whats the best way to troubleshoot?

 

Is it throwing any CEL codes?

If you don't have a Code reader... go buy one. They're cheap and likely to save you much time and frustration.
Now... FUEL< SPARK< COMPRESSION

Easy stuff... you won't get fuel or spark if your crank/cam angle sensors are not plugged in
You won't get spark if your ignitor is not plugged in
You won't get spark if your coil is not plugged in
You will have all kinds of trouble if the main ground on the intake manifold isn't on and tight.

FUEL

Check to see if your fuel return and fuel supply hoses are backwards. That's likely to screw things up a bit.

remove one of the injector plugs from an injector. Using a 12v test light(properly grounded on one end), crank the engine with the test probe on each of the wires... not sure which one so do both wires... with one of the wires you should have a rythmic blinking of the light as your helper cranks the engine. You can try this on other plugs if you wish.

SPARK

Check for spark either with an inductive timing light or with an inductive tachometer-- have your willing helper or a remote start switch... crank the engine with a spark plug wire disconnected from the coil pack and hold the plug wire a half inch or so from the coil-- fat blue spark should be visible.



COMPRESSION
Not likely to be an issue... but... how does it sound when you crank the engine over?