To really know how much oil you've lost over time, you really should check it only when the motor is hot and has been shut off for aproximately 10 minutes. This gives the oil a chance to drain from the heads, etc and allows for thermal expansion. I believe this is what the owner's manual recommends and it's served me well.

When I first switched to Mobil-1 10-40 from dyno oil when the car was at like 7K miles, IIRC, I burned a bunch, but then it stopped consuming oil. I switched to Royal Purple and didn't like what I read about it so finally switched to German Castrol. I burn about half a quart between oil changes now (5K mile interval). I really like the GC.

 

Yeah I switched to 10w40 like 100,000 miles ago. No reason to use 5/30 or 5/40 imo. I only use mobil-1.

Still burns oil. If I don't add any oil it will burn probably 1.5 to 2 courts in one change cycle.

But

 

M1 Is garbage oil to begin with, Switch to some regular castrol or like stated above German Castrol 10w30 will do yeah fine 10w40 wouldn't hurt either.
Every time you change your oil add 4.5q's run the engine at Idle for 10 mins shut down for 10 and recheck, continue until the oil Is at the full mark. With castrol 10w30 or 40 you shouldn't burn more then 1q in 3-4k miles atleast I dont and I run my car hard with my 30r on a stock block.

GL

 

Interesting. We used to run Mobil 1, but recently changed to the Castol Syntec 0-w30 motor oil found at Auto Zone. This product differs from the others as it is made in Germany - and the Blackstone Lab analysis on the engine oil proves that it has far superior wear characteristics in our particular application.

We haven't lost a drop in oil consumption since switching. I can't say the same for the Mobil 1 - we had to top off at least twice between changes.

 

Whenever I see these posts I kick myself for not having my camera ready when the A1GP mechanics were pouring Mobil1 directly from the Mobil1 bottle into the RACE CAR ENGINE.

 

 

Key word "Race Engine" as In an engine that has been perfected to get every oz of power with the longest life span possible... Sure M1 works for them as they need a super thin oil because of their tight tolerances, suby engines are not built like this. Look over on nasioc there have been quite a few threads about M1 being garbage for our engines, I'm not bashing M1 by any means just stating that It Is not the best oil to use with these cars, plus why spend 30+ dollars in just oil per oil change and then add 2+ quarts in between lol M1 aint cheap

 

I run Mobil Synthetic 15w50 and literally don't burn a drop with forged pistons (with more piston to wall clearance than the factory block). So if your burning oil, there are underlying problems. Now if its a oil leak, you all good. Just fix the leak.

I think a quart per 1000 miles is just crazy, so you have to add 3 qaurts of oil in between oil changes?. Thats what my OEM block was doing with a piece of piston missing!

 

so what youre saying is that Mobil1 is good for a healthy engine, but not for the Suby motor. That sounds to me more like the Suby motor is what is garbage, not the oil

 

Mobil 1 is a great oil, I even knew that from my Nissan days. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

 

Uhhhhhhh do you know what you're talking about?

Race engines run loose chief.

I run Mobil 1 5w30, and haven't required a quart over 5k oilchange intervals, driving like an ***.

 

Well yeah we all knew that one haha suby engines arent the strongest out of the box.
What I'm trying to say Is that If you use M1 you will burn more oil then usual due to It being quite thin compared to other synthetics.

 

oh, and this thread is knocking helluve hard!

lol I'm like the harbinger of doom!

apologies to 07wrx4life for using 'chief'. No bueno. Use whatever oil you please

 

EXACTLY! You have a healthy motor sir. Having a turbo does not give you some reckless abandon for burning oil, lol. If you are burning oil....there is some level of problem with your motor. To what degree? Ehh? We have seen allot of high mileage beat on motors, lol. Hell my blown motor went almost 10k before I swapped in a new one, and it was still running when we swapped it.

 

truf.

it usually irks me when a product becomes guilty by association. The oil didn't necessarily *want* to burn away, but got sucked into the burning lifestyle by those no-good misfit piston rings, or turbo seals with bad dispositions.

easier to blame the oil than fix the bottom-end I guess