Oh, and that reminds me. Koni's are lifetime warranted. So, if they blow a seal, they will rebuild it.

But lets say you want to just replace them here or there. you can buy just 1, or 2 or all 4. They are $800 for the set at http://www.shox.com/appguide/shoxsho...ctsdisplay.php

I replaced my 2.5 yr old rears for $440 shipped. In Jan I'll do the fronts. Pretty economical.

 

You gotta help me talk Jeff in to going wide body of his RS build... and doing the roof. his has a sun roof.

 

Talk me into it while you are at it. It's my favorite Suby shape ever, one of my favorite cars ever made and I just scored my '95 L coupe back which has a pretty messed up body and is a color I greatly dislike (shoot it even needs a LF fender). Who makes the best kit for this? What suspension changes need to be made? I need to do some searchin.. I have never seen one in person but seen a lot in pictures that looked like crap.

 

As far as suspension, I have had some nice coilover setups but my favorite and most trouble-free suspensions have been based around Koni shocks/struts and good springs (preferably linear). For my coupe I am probably going with Koni's and the Ground Control kit for height adjustability. Just need to figure out which length springs.

I really liked the Stasis Streetsport coilovers on my R32 (based on Koni coilovers) but I do not know if they make anything for Subies.

 

jeremy at crucial should be able to cut you a deal on koni's too. i haven't owned a car without a koni setup.

 

So Gagan, Can you help configure a good set up. So Koni Yellows, these are just inserts right? And what spring rates would be good for daily driveability with some spirited canyon driving. It seems for the same price I could do this, instead of my KYB AGX and Prodrive spring combo. I was looking for simplicity, but koni/ groundcontrol combo might be the way to go.

Also are the stock WRX perches good for this setup? How hard is the install? Any guidance would be much appreciated!

 

the install is not too bad with the right tools. there's a good tutorial on nastysock.

if you get the ground controls you can cut off most of your stock perches. it just needs a small lip to keep the sleeve on. mine are trimmed and look like your typical aftermarket coilovers. something in the 250lb range will be firm for the street but very livable (ride comfort is all relative of course). i have a winter set at around 200lbs (the car plus sf streets does not like these at the current a little too low ride height) and the summer set at 400+ for autocross.

 

These are just different springs you swap out im assuming? And do you guys have strut bars or sways to complement your suspension set-up?

 

yes, with the ground controls you can use any 2.5" internal diameter (ID) coilover spring at the appropriate length. the great thing about this setup is the flexibility while running high quality parts. they come with eibach springs which are great quality. my "winter" springs are hypercoils and i'm getting hypercoils for a stiffer autocross set for next season.

i think an 8" spring at 250lbs would be appropriate if you also want the car lowered (maybe 9" spring). you do shorter springs if you're running higher spring rates (they compress less). if you have specific questions email or call mark at ground control. knowledgeable guy and great customer service.

i have front and rear sways with heavy duty endlinks. you may find them unnecessary if you're not looking to go too stiff. i have a rear strut tower bar, but i have a wagon and it seems to be more effective for us with the extra door in rear.

 

hEY i REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP! Made my decision very easy now.

 

6" free length if you keep the OE spring perch (helpful if in a pinch you need to swap in some regular style springs temporarily)
7-9" if you cut the OE perch off, and therefore mounted the GC threaded body lower on the strut. How much spring length should be based on how much lower than the bottom of the OE perch you are going to go.

I decided to leave the OE perch on there. If I was ever in a bind, i'd have options.

 

If I were in your situation, based on what you will be using it for, I'd go 300lb/in linear springs. I REALLY REALLY recommend you buy Swift springs and not Eibachs. You should be able to buy the GC kit for less without the eibachs. If they refuse, then just get them.

I'll have to check on the spring lengths for a GD, I think 6" should be right correct if you keep oe perches (which I think you should).

Issue with the GDs is that they don't get the same amount of shock travel a GC impreza gets. I know that International B did a lower mount on his shocks for more travel in the front, and this is something you will have to do as well.

In terms of cutting and putting the struts together I have everything at home, we can do it in an afternoon. Only thing missing would be some washers to mount the shock lower in the housing in the front, and that's about it.

 

Oh, and the reason I recommend the Swifts are because they are true to spring rate within just 3%, instead of Eibachs which are +/- 15%. They use nearly half the coils which means you get almost 30-40% more spring travel before coils bind. They are not much more expensive. They are also about 1/2 to 2/3 the weight of an eibach.

After a few years of these swifts being available here in the US (about 3.5 years now), last year Hypercoil reformulated how they make the springs are now similar to how the swifts are made. I'm not sure if they are cheaper or more expensive.

 

Roof swap is great!

Widebody... I'd suggest he not buy the HT-Auto kit like I did. There are other options, that are more expensive. The HT-Auto kit looks great, but it WILL crack over time as the fiberglass flexes.

 

the hypercoils are $54/spring at shock-shop.com. fast shipping, as they're up in oregon.

if you go koni i highly recommend you look in to the d_rex strut extenders for konis from turninconcepts.com. travel is an issue on the gd's like gagan said.