where to buy german castrol in/near San Jose
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where to buy german castrol in/near San Jose
is there anybody that used german castrol around here? or is it just too thin for this weather?
I am just confused if it is only synth or also dino. I would prefer a dino oil.
Also what dealer has the cheapest OEM oil filters?
let me know.
I am just confused if it is only synth or also dino. I would prefer a dino oil.
Also what dealer has the cheapest OEM oil filters?
let me know.
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I'm not familar with German Castrol. However I know that Castrol in general is contracted out to local manufacturers and Castrol just puts in their additive package.
Curious, why are you set on natural base oil?
Curious, why are you set on natural base oil?
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From: in Minneapolis,MN soon
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I like to stick with dino because 1st I only have a N/A engine, 2nd synth is too thin and I have a minor leak, 3rd "mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless." so I don't like to switch back and forth.
so it's a 0w30 ok with the temperatures around here, at least until spring.
Castrol Syntec 0w30 is the only one made by Castrol that is Overseas..I think either Germany or England I forgot...gotta go look at my bottle.
I did alot of research, and chose 0w30 of the results..you wont be dissapointed. Only AutoZone carries them, sometimes you'll find a special 5 qrts plus filter for $27.99. If there is NO SALE at Autozone for Castrol, they do match prices. Check out Kragen. Pepboys and take the AD to Autozone, they will match it.
I did alot of research, and chose 0w30 of the results..you wont be dissapointed. Only AutoZone carries them, sometimes you'll find a special 5 qrts plus filter for $27.99. If there is NO SALE at Autozone for Castrol, they do match prices. Check out Kragen. Pepboys and take the AD to Autozone, they will match it.
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Do not use 0w any oil.. If you want German Castrol, go to any BMW dealership they have it in 15w-50 20w-50 and it's all made in Germany
Thin Oil Myth
With that said, German Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (GC) isn't thin relative to most 30 weights -- which is good and bad depending on your application.
With that said, German Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (GC) isn't thin relative to most 30 weights -- which is good and bad depending on your application.
btw, an oem filter is not required, and not necessarily "better". I use the toughgard from FRAM, and works just fine. I saw a cut away of it once and compared to other filters, it can filter whatever that needs to be filtered.
In terms of oil, the first number is the cold thickness and the 2nd is the warm thickness.
Where we live, for a street driven car, whatever you use won't matter, cause we will never hit temps warranting a thinner cold thickness oil. The other number doesn't really matter for normal driving, when engine oil temps are below 100C.
Also, synthetic is NOT thinner then dino, just because it's synthetic. Synthetic has 1 primary property that makes it really worth it, esp in extreme cold ( like below 0F) and thats how well it works at start up. Synthetic oil will resist getting thicker as the temps drop, and therefore makes for a great oil when looking at start up protection. It's more mobile, and can hit all lube points better at start up than dino oil can. At the end of the day, we are talking about a lubricant that's supposed to coat moving parts, and the faster this happens, the better the wear on your motor. technically, this should apply for the coldest mornings we see around here, 20s-30s. Synthetic oil will get out of the pan, and through the motor easier on start up than dino oil. Once the oil is warm, there really won't be too much difference as long as the oil does it's job.
Also, remember that most of us are not RACING OUR CARS! Just because you rev it to redline all the time, doesn't mean you have to have some crazy oil. Unless you are at WOT more than half the time you drive (like a race car), you don't need to hunt down some crazy oil. the oils temps wont get hot enough in street driving to warrant this.
Oh, and to blame motor failures on oil is preposterous... some people do this... As long as one has an oil made for the given use, and changes it often, oil will not cause the failure of an engine.
In terms of oil, the first number is the cold thickness and the 2nd is the warm thickness.
Where we live, for a street driven car, whatever you use won't matter, cause we will never hit temps warranting a thinner cold thickness oil. The other number doesn't really matter for normal driving, when engine oil temps are below 100C.
Also, synthetic is NOT thinner then dino, just because it's synthetic. Synthetic has 1 primary property that makes it really worth it, esp in extreme cold ( like below 0F) and thats how well it works at start up. Synthetic oil will resist getting thicker as the temps drop, and therefore makes for a great oil when looking at start up protection. It's more mobile, and can hit all lube points better at start up than dino oil can. At the end of the day, we are talking about a lubricant that's supposed to coat moving parts, and the faster this happens, the better the wear on your motor. technically, this should apply for the coldest mornings we see around here, 20s-30s. Synthetic oil will get out of the pan, and through the motor easier on start up than dino oil. Once the oil is warm, there really won't be too much difference as long as the oil does it's job.
Also, remember that most of us are not RACING OUR CARS! Just because you rev it to redline all the time, doesn't mean you have to have some crazy oil. Unless you are at WOT more than half the time you drive (like a race car), you don't need to hunt down some crazy oil. the oils temps wont get hot enough in street driving to warrant this.
Oh, and to blame motor failures on oil is preposterous... some people do this... As long as one has an oil made for the given use, and changes it often, oil will not cause the failure of an engine.
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