Weird Coolant Issue…I am stumped…HELP!

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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 09:36 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by xhengmanx
Give me the car with the stoptech on them!
Sure, pay me for all the aftermarket parts on it and you get the car for free
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 09:44 PM
  #17  
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Had the same problem on my 04 wrx about a month ago. Every time I pushed the car, I ended up with a nearly full overflow tank. One day the car overheated on me and I brought it to a local shop to get a hydrocarbon test, and the results showed exhaust in the coolant. Tear down provided evidence of head gasket failure. This issue only manifested itself for a couple weeks before it drove me to check into it thoroughly.

An empty wallet later and the heads are redone with all new equipment, new head gaskets, seals and timing components.

If you go forward with repairs it's a good time to upgrade internals, replace timing system if it's close to due, and engine bay cleaning if your into that sort of thing.
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 09:49 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Hipmvmt
Had the same problem on my 04 wrx about a month ago. Every time I pushed the car, I ended up with a nearly full overflow tank. One day the car overheated on me and I brought it to a local shop to get a hydrocarbon test, and the results showed exhaust in the coolant. Tear down provided evidence of head gasket failure. This issue only manifested itself for a couple weeks before it drove me to check into it thoroughly.

An empty wallet later and the heads are redone with all new equipment, new head gaskets, seals and timing components.

If you go forward with repairs it's a good time to upgrade internals, replace timing system if it's close to due, and engine bay cleaning if your into that sort of thing.
It is a '98 Leggy Outback with 186k miles on the chassis and a second engine I ain't worth $2-3k for an engine overhaul and I don't have a garage or time to do it myself. I will part it out, crush it and get something else.
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 09:55 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by LxJLthr

It is a '98 Leggy Outback with 186k miles on the chassis and a second engine I ain't worth $2-3k for an engine overhaul and I don't have a garage or time to do it myself. I will part it out, crush it and get something else.
*Part it out, return to stock, rally the **** out of it and then crush it, haha
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 09:59 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Hipmvmt
*Part it out, return to stock, rally the **** out of it and then crush it, haha
Heeeell to the yeah! Why didn't think about that! Actually make use of the lifted suspension and skid plating I recently put on it
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 10:24 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LxJLthr
It is a '98 Leggy Outback with 186k miles on the chassis and a second engine I ain't worth $2-3k for an engine overhaul and I don't have a garage or time to do it myself. I will part it out, crush it and get something else.
Shoot I got 195 on it and original engine lol.
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 10:34 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by pho_shizzle
Shoot I got 195 on it and original engine lol.
Uummm come on dude! You should know the answer to that! Because Krazy Ivan
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 10:37 PM
  #23  
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I'll elaborate a little further on this topic,

1) A compression test is about as useful as ash tray on a Harley!
2) In all but the most excessive/severe cases of HG/Cylinder liner failure a Leakdown test won't show you much (assuming your doing it to look for little bubbles in your filler as a indicator)

Your heater core is not your issue, your weird heater issues are as a result of a now poorly bleed cooling system due to you pushing out water and not recovering as much as you've pushed and replacing it with air.

You can try one of those self test engine pregnancy kits, I have had some varying results with those over the years but then again since the invention date of around when the telephone was released not sure why anyone would use those type systems.

If you want to prove for sure you have or don't have a head gasket issue, get the car up to temp and beat on it then pull over and smack a CO sniff on the system, in your case your pushing coolant so you can keep your dainty fingers from melting and read it from the overflow.
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 10:45 PM
  #24  
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Oh crap I just thought of a really cool and much easier to use test for the Russian nutball.

This is so simple I can't believe I have not tested on someone I hates car!

Yuri tomorrow morning before you drive into work do this mate and then call me and let me know how far into your commute you got before getting totally stranded it will be awesome!

Take a 10mm bolt and a zip tie
Remove the rubber hose that comes from your rad cap and feeds the overflow from the overflow tank.
Stick the 10mm bolt into the end of the rubber line that goes into your overflow tank
Secure really well with the zip tie
Aim the rubber hose if possible through the grill facing forward of the car (this will be cool if you've not secured the 10mm well and your tailgating!!)

Now on your commute to work beat the crap out of the car!

Let me know which endtank blows off the rad core, I'll bet top cracks.

Oh also if you didn't secure the 10mm that well did the guy in front of you punch you when you shot him with a 10mm??

Mike
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 10:59 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by UKn00b
I'll elaborate a little further on this topic,

1) A compression test is about as useful as ash tray on a Harley!
2) In all but the most excessive/severe cases of HG/Cylinder liner failure a Leakdown test won't show you much (assuming your doing it to look for little bubbles in your filler as a indicator)

Your heater core is not your issue, your weird heater issues are as a result of a now poorly bleed cooling system due to you pushing out water and not recovering as much as you've pushed and replacing it with air.

You can try one of those self test engine pregnancy kits, I have had some varying results with those over the years but then again since the invention date of around when the telephone was released not sure why anyone would use those type systems.

If you want to prove for sure you have or don't have a head gasket issue, get the car up to temp and beat on it then pull over and smack a CO sniff on the system, in your case your pushing coolant so you can keep your dainty fingers from melting and read it from the overflow.
Le sigh. I think this will set a record for the fastest HG failure if that's the case...I think I drove only ~25k miles since you dropped in the replacement engine.

Originally Posted by UKn00b
Oh crap I just thought of a really cool and much easier to use test for the Russian nutball.

This is so simple I can't believe I have not tested on someone I hates car!

Yuri tomorrow morning before you drive into work do this mate and then call me and let me know how far into your commute you got before getting totally stranded it will be awesome!

Take a 10mm bolt and a zip tie
Remove the rubber hose that comes from your rad cap and feeds the overflow from the overflow tank.
Stick the 10mm bolt into the end of the rubber line that goes into your overflow tank
Secure really well with the zip tie
Aim the rubber hose if possible through the grill facing forward of the car (this will be cool if you've not secured the 10mm well and your tailgating!!)

Now on your commute to work beat the crap out of the car!

Let me know which endtank blows off the rad core, I'll bet top cracks.

Oh also if you didn't secure the 10mm that well did the guy in front of you punch you when you shot him with a 10mm??

Mike
I am not sure what's worst...you suggesting it or me not disregarding that idea out right I guess it is a good thing I take BART to work
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 11:05 PM
  #26  
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Wasn't it a used import engine? Kinda never know what your getting with those things.

I still think the 10mm bolt test would be cool, can't believe I've never done that before on something I owned just for grins.
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 11:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by UKn00b
Wasn't it a used import engine? Kinda never know what your getting with those things.

I still think the 10mm bolt test would be cool, can't believe I've never done that before on something I owned just for grins.
Yeah, it was supposed to have only 15k miles on it...I don't have any clear ideas whether it is to blame or the user. I was actually nice to this engine since I didn't want a repeat dealing with this issue. I can certainty speculate as what potentially could have happened (like being forced to drive through standing water 1.5 years ago), but it is what it is.
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 11:18 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by LxJLthr
Yeah, it was supposed to have only 15k miles on it...
Yea but the problem is everyone lies and crate motors from JDM importers through EBay etc know full well they can say whatever they want mileage wise as there really is no way to tell exactly.
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 11:24 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by UKn00b
Yea but the problem is everyone lies and crate motors from JDM importers through EBay etc know full well they can say whatever they want mileage wise as there really is no way to tell exactly.
Were you not the one that recommended that option though? JK JK

Oh well, I rolled the dice and it didn't pan out for whatever reason. I will do the O2 test and have Mert look it over just for ****s and giggles, but it looks like I better start saving my pennies.

BTW You never got back to me about dyno-ing the Stealth!
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 11:28 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by LxJLthr
Were you not the one that recommended that option though? JK JK

Oh well, I rolled the dice and it didn't pan out for whatever reason. I will do the O2 test and have Mert look it over just for ****s and giggles, but it looks like I better start saving my pennies.

BTW You never got back to me about dyno-ing the Stealth!
Well yea cause you wanted to do it cheaply and that was the most obvious route, there's also the fact that you probably caused your current issue running Vodka as coolant or something anyway!

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