Ugh...Broke studs on my VF39

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Old 01-03-2012, 01:07 PM
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Ugh...Broke studs on my VF39

Well, I was attempting to go stage 2 yesterday and started to remove the stock DP, I managed to snap off one of the studs and a second one stripped itself allowing the nut to spin on the stud and not back out.

I'm going to pull the turbo out tonight so I can bring it to the shop at work tomorrow and remove the broken studs. I just called Farifield Subaru, the replacement hardware is crazy expensive. Each stud is 8.58 x3, 2 bolts are 9.25 ea, and 2 nuts are 1.83 ea. Almost $50

Guess you never know what kind of issues you are going to run into when buying a used car. I never had these kind of issues on my old wrx. I rode my motorcycle to work this morning, bout froze my *** off too. Hoping I get this back together fairly quick before it starts raining again.

Anyway, just sharing another one of my stupid car experiences...
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:32 PM
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i was one to do a lot of DIY work, but i hate dealing with unpredictable things like these, so i stopped doin most of my own work haha
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:35 PM
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Penatrating Blaster is your friend.
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:41 PM
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i messed up one of my studs when replacing my turbo. think it was overtightened and got cross-threaded. there was enough slack so i ended up buying a hacksaw and just cutting it off. don't know if that is an option for you. if anything, buy the studs and nuts at home depot. much cheaper and there is nothing special about the dealer ones other than the price.
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DerekB707
Well, I was attempting to go stage 2 yesterday and started to remove the stock DP, I managed to snap off one of the studs and a second one stripped itself allowing the nut to spin on the stud and not back out.

I'm going to pull the turbo out tonight so I can bring it to the shop at work tomorrow and remove the broken studs. I just called Farifield Subaru, the replacement hardware is crazy expensive. Each stud is 8.58 x3, 2 bolts are 9.25 ea, and 2 nuts are 1.83 ea. Almost $50

Guess you never know what kind of issues you are going to run into when buying a used car. I never had these kind of issues on my old wrx. I rode my motorcycle to work this morning, bout froze my *** off too. Hoping I get this back together fairly quick before it starts raining again.

Anyway, just sharing another one of my stupid car experiences...
same thing happened to me, it was such a pita to fix. goodluck
Originally Posted by jdblock
Penatrating Blaster is your friend.
yes! i use this everytime i work in my car. spray drink a beer then work lol
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:49 PM
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Good excuse to upgrade the turbo
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:54 PM
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Dorman/Exhaust Manifold Stud and Nut (03400) | AutoZone.com

$5 if my memory serves me right.

Ron
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jdblock
Penatrating Blaster is your friend.
I actually tried some, I think they tightened it on there way too tight.

Originally Posted by turfshark
i messed up one of my studs when replacing my turbo. think it was overtightened and got cross-threaded. there was enough slack so i ended up buying a hacksaw and just cutting it off. don't know if that is an option for you. if anything, buy the studs and nuts at home depot. much cheaper and there is nothing special about the dealer ones other than the price.
Thanks, will check into that, prices seemed crazy to me for a couple nuts and bolts, lol.

Originally Posted by Javirex23
same thing happened to me, it was such a pita to fix. goodluck

yes! i use this everytime i work in my car. spray drink a beer then work lol
Good plan!

Originally Posted by LOL VTEC
Good excuse to upgrade the turbo
Dammit Eric, you're a bad influence!!

Originally Posted by STINGR5
Thanks Ron! I'll give that a shot, way better price!
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jdblock
Penatrating Blaster is your friend.
X1000000

Originally Posted by STINGR5
Use the OEM studs, Put anti-seize on it this time, use PB Blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.

Use the OEM studs and nuts and they are designed for the OEM turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.

The ones listed might work, But more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as IHI turbos.
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by old.guy
x1000000



use the oem studs, put anti-seize on it this time, use pb blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.

Use the oem studs and nuts and they are designed for the oem turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.

The ones listed might work, but more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as ihi turbos.
this
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by old.guy
X1000000



Use the OEM studs, Put anti-seize on it this time, use PB Blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.

Use the OEM studs and nuts and they are designed for the OEM turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.

The ones listed might work, But more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as IHI turbos.
From first hand experience they work just fine. In fact I had a guy run these same studs for over 70k miles on the vf39 until I swapped out his turbo and tuned his car. I'm not saying they work better than the oem ones but they do the job for daily driven applications.

Regards,

Ron
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:31 PM
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Good luck, I had the threads on a nut get munched and Subaru Modesto wanted $10.20 for a single self locking nut. o_O Went to autozone and got 3 nylocks for $2.68
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ZtotheH
Good luck, I had the threads on a nut get munched and Subaru Modesto wanted $10.20 for a single self locking nut. o_O Went to autozone and got 3 nylocks for $2.68
And that has what to offer the OP? Or did you use nylock nuts on your turbo?

The cycling of hot and cold is what is going to get turbo studs. Do it right the 1st time or fix it again later, Costing you even more money down the road.
As for non exhaust type bolts.. Go to Ace for better deals. And make sure you get the right type and grade of bolt or nut.

I can not recommend this book enough!!

Amazon.com: Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop) (9780879384067): Carroll Smith: Books

Everytime I read it I pick up something else new that I didn't get before hand.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:
Preface
Introduction
Characteristics of Metal
Stress, Strain, Load, and Fatigue
Thread Physics
Bolts and Bolted Joints
Bolt Specifics
Female Threads
Locking Devices
Washers & Miscellaneous Fasteners
Rivets & Riveting
High Performance Plumbing
Future Trends in Fastening


Read more: http://www.actechbooks.com/products/...#ixzz1iRmit2gA

Looks like there is a new version as well..


Be ordering up this one asap

Last edited by old.guy; 01-03-2012 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 01-03-2012, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by old.guy
X1000000



Use the OEM studs, Put anti-seize on it this time, use PB Blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.

Use the OEM studs and nuts and they are designed for the OEM turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.

The ones listed might work, But more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as IHI turbos.
I had actually ordered the OEM subaru fasteners before I posted this thread, had to order a intercooler to throttle rubber coupler also. I was mainly just complaining on the cost of parts there days, I buy grade 8 stuff from time to time at ACE here in Vacaville for other projects and they are a fraction of the cost. Still, I will usually spend more to do it right. I bought this STi a couple months ago, you never know what you are getting with a used car. I knew the turbo had been replaced about 20k miles ago, but someone over tightened it and did not use anti-seize like I would have.

Still, from reading your other posts and seeing you experience from your time attack car, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience. Ron, (STINGR5) is a buddy of mine, he's very knowledgeable and I trust him when it comes to subaru's. He's bailed me out a couple times, he means well and was just trying to offer a cheaper priced alternative.


Originally Posted by old.guy

The cycling of hot and cold is what is going to get turbo studs. Do it right the 1st time or fix it again later, Costing you even more money down the road.
As for non exhaust type bolts.. Go to Ace for better deals. And make sure you get the right type and grade of bolt or nut.

I can not recommend this book enough!!

Everytime I read it I pick up something else new that I didn't get before hand.

I wish who ever installed the turbo on my car before I bought it had read this book. I only know the basics on a small portion of this stuff, but what I do know is it's important factor, the guy who put this in most likely overtightened it along with the temperature cycles caused them to break when I tried to remove it.
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:05 PM
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Finally got around to working on these today and managed to get them out.

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