Ugh...Broke studs on my VF39
#1
Ugh...Broke studs on my VF39
Well, I was attempting to go stage 2 yesterday and started to remove the stock DP, I managed to snap off one of the studs and a second one stripped itself allowing the nut to spin on the stud and not back out.
I'm going to pull the turbo out tonight so I can bring it to the shop at work tomorrow and remove the broken studs. I just called Farifield Subaru, the replacement hardware is crazy expensive. Each stud is 8.58 x3, 2 bolts are 9.25 ea, and 2 nuts are 1.83 ea. Almost $50
Guess you never know what kind of issues you are going to run into when buying a used car. I never had these kind of issues on my old wrx. I rode my motorcycle to work this morning, bout froze my *** off too. Hoping I get this back together fairly quick before it starts raining again.
Anyway, just sharing another one of my stupid car experiences...
I'm going to pull the turbo out tonight so I can bring it to the shop at work tomorrow and remove the broken studs. I just called Farifield Subaru, the replacement hardware is crazy expensive. Each stud is 8.58 x3, 2 bolts are 9.25 ea, and 2 nuts are 1.83 ea. Almost $50
Guess you never know what kind of issues you are going to run into when buying a used car. I never had these kind of issues on my old wrx. I rode my motorcycle to work this morning, bout froze my *** off too. Hoping I get this back together fairly quick before it starts raining again.
Anyway, just sharing another one of my stupid car experiences...
#4
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Location: Berkeley, CA
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Car Info: 05' WRX (Dirty Black)
i messed up one of my studs when replacing my turbo. think it was overtightened and got cross-threaded. there was enough slack so i ended up buying a hacksaw and just cutting it off. don't know if that is an option for you. if anything, buy the studs and nuts at home depot. much cheaper and there is nothing special about the dealer ones other than the price.
#5
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Location: Bay Area
Posts: 2,178
Car Info: 07lmtd 6spd wrx eq tuned
Well, I was attempting to go stage 2 yesterday and started to remove the stock DP, I managed to snap off one of the studs and a second one stripped itself allowing the nut to spin on the stud and not back out.
I'm going to pull the turbo out tonight so I can bring it to the shop at work tomorrow and remove the broken studs. I just called Farifield Subaru, the replacement hardware is crazy expensive. Each stud is 8.58 x3, 2 bolts are 9.25 ea, and 2 nuts are 1.83 ea. Almost $50
Guess you never know what kind of issues you are going to run into when buying a used car. I never had these kind of issues on my old wrx. I rode my motorcycle to work this morning, bout froze my *** off too. Hoping I get this back together fairly quick before it starts raining again.
Anyway, just sharing another one of my stupid car experiences...
I'm going to pull the turbo out tonight so I can bring it to the shop at work tomorrow and remove the broken studs. I just called Farifield Subaru, the replacement hardware is crazy expensive. Each stud is 8.58 x3, 2 bolts are 9.25 ea, and 2 nuts are 1.83 ea. Almost $50
Guess you never know what kind of issues you are going to run into when buying a used car. I never had these kind of issues on my old wrx. I rode my motorcycle to work this morning, bout froze my *** off too. Hoping I get this back together fairly quick before it starts raining again.
Anyway, just sharing another one of my stupid car experiences...
yes! i use this everytime i work in my car. spray drink a beer then work lol
#7
#8
I actually tried some, I think they tightened it on there way too tight.
Thanks, will check into that, prices seemed crazy to me for a couple nuts and bolts, lol.
Good plan!
Dammit Eric, you're a bad influence!!
Thanks Ron! I'll give that a shot, way better price!
i messed up one of my studs when replacing my turbo. think it was overtightened and got cross-threaded. there was enough slack so i ended up buying a hacksaw and just cutting it off. don't know if that is an option for you. if anything, buy the studs and nuts at home depot. much cheaper and there is nothing special about the dealer ones other than the price.
Dammit Eric, you're a bad influence!!
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: 2006 Zero/sports Widebody
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X1000000
Use the OEM studs, Put anti-seize on it this time, use PB Blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.
Use the OEM studs and nuts and they are designed for the OEM turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.
The ones listed might work, But more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as IHI turbos.
Use the OEM studs and nuts and they are designed for the OEM turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.
The ones listed might work, But more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as IHI turbos.
#10
x1000000
use the oem studs, put anti-seize on it this time, use pb blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.
Use the oem studs and nuts and they are designed for the oem turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.
The ones listed might work, but more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as ihi turbos.
use the oem studs, put anti-seize on it this time, use pb blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.
Use the oem studs and nuts and they are designed for the oem turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.
The ones listed might work, but more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as ihi turbos.
#11
X1000000
Use the OEM studs, Put anti-seize on it this time, use PB Blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.
Use the OEM studs and nuts and they are designed for the OEM turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.
The ones listed might work, But more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as IHI turbos.
Use the OEM studs, Put anti-seize on it this time, use PB Blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.
Use the OEM studs and nuts and they are designed for the OEM turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.
The ones listed might work, But more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as IHI turbos.
Regards,
Ron
#13
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: 2006 Zero/sports Widebody
Posts: 1,669
Car Info: 500+ whp Club
The cycling of hot and cold is what is going to get turbo studs. Do it right the 1st time or fix it again later, Costing you even more money down the road.
As for non exhaust type bolts.. Go to Ace for better deals. And make sure you get the right type and grade of bolt or nut.
I can not recommend this book enough!!
Amazon.com: Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop) (9780879384067): Carroll Smith: Books
Everytime I read it I pick up something else new that I didn't get before hand.
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
Preface
Introduction
Characteristics of Metal
Stress, Strain, Load, and Fatigue
Thread Physics
Bolts and Bolted Joints
Bolt Specifics
Female Threads
Locking Devices
Washers & Miscellaneous Fasteners
Rivets & Riveting
High Performance Plumbing
Future Trends in Fastening
Read more: http://www.actechbooks.com/products/...#ixzz1iRmit2gA
Looks like there is a new version as well..
Be ordering up this one asap
Last edited by old.guy; 01-03-2012 at 05:04 PM.
#14
X1000000
Use the OEM studs, Put anti-seize on it this time, use PB Blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.
Use the OEM studs and nuts and they are designed for the OEM turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.
The ones listed might work, But more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as IHI turbos.
Use the OEM studs, Put anti-seize on it this time, use PB Blaster next time about 2 hours before removing.
Use the OEM studs and nuts and they are designed for the OEM turbo and the heat cycling that those studs deal with day in and day out. Others are made of different material and will crack,strip or snap in the long run. Or they will never come apart ever again and they gall themselves into one.
The ones listed might work, But more then likely are made for cast iron heads and manifolds. Not the same as IHI turbos.
Still, from reading your other posts and seeing you experience from your time attack car, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience. Ron, (STINGR5) is a buddy of mine, he's very knowledgeable and I trust him when it comes to subaru's. He's bailed me out a couple times, he means well and was just trying to offer a cheaper priced alternative.
The cycling of hot and cold is what is going to get turbo studs. Do it right the 1st time or fix it again later, Costing you even more money down the road.
As for non exhaust type bolts.. Go to Ace for better deals. And make sure you get the right type and grade of bolt or nut.
I can not recommend this book enough!!
Everytime I read it I pick up something else new that I didn't get before hand.
I wish who ever installed the turbo on my car before I bought it had read this book. I only know the basics on a small portion of this stuff, but what I do know is it's important factor, the guy who put this in most likely overtightened it along with the temperature cycles caused them to break when I tried to remove it.