is it easy enough for me to change out the brake pads and bleed the system or should i have a pro guy do it?

where's a good place to take my car to get the brakes done(f and r) and how much would i be looking at? i live in pleasant hill, concord, walnut creek area.

is it required to have my rotors resurfaced or placed? (26k miles)

thanks in advance, searched but couldnt find the right answers.

 

learn how to do it yourself, and spend the saved labor cost on upgrade rotors and stainless lines

 

GST Motorsports...word

 

Changing pads is easy - can be done by yourself with basic hand tools in less than an hour. Bleeding brake lines by yourself can be a *****, so it'd be nice to have an extra set of hands, well, feet, for that.

I understand the stock rotors are kind of thin to be resurfacing, so the general consensus is to replace the pads the 1st time, and then replace the rotors AND pads the 2nd time.
________
Marijuana Vaporizers

 

Bleeding brakes can be a pain if it's your first time, and you need a buddy to help you too. There's a few shops on i-club that are in your area.

Also, I have never gotten my rotors resurfaced (76k miles) and I don't have any vibrations when I brake. *knock on wood*

 

i'll do some more research, its just that i was told doing the brembo brakes are more difficult. my friend is a honda head and can pretty much do anything on honda, would it pretty much be the same on the subaru(sti)?
as for bleeding and changing out the pads.

 

i got mine done at Speed Element just a week or two ago...

 

http://videos.hspn.com/index.php?videoid=44

that helps, think i'll go ahead and try

 

anytime you replace brake pads (with a different compound) you must resurface the rotors (assuming they are not at or near min specs) or replace them. A lot of folks make an error and think that just pad slapping is okay, when in fact it's not. Only time its okay to pad slap a new set of pads is if you are using same compound as previopusly used (i.e. going from Axxis Ultimate pads back to Axxis Ulimate pads, OEM to OEM, etc...).

Lets be real, these are your brakes you are talking about, they save you in a pinch and keep you safe every moment you need them. The last thing you want to think about in a perdictment is did I do that job right?

Just my $0.02

-Noah

 

thats a great tip, thanks.
i ran into some free pads, hawk hps Ferro-Compound front and back.
can i just slap this in or do i need to resurface.

 

I'm nowhere near an expert in brakes, so this is just an honest question. When you replace pads, can they not wear evenly which can cause a new set of pads to not sit flush to the rotor for a few thousand miles? Which may cause less braking power until the pads wear enough to sit flush on the old rotor?

 

ur killin me bro...hit ur boy! we just did Dallas springs yesterday...hit me!

 

If that's not what's on there currently, its not recommended, nor something we would do.


Sure some calipers stick as they age (especially non sti's as they're a sliding caliper system), seals go bad, rotors warp, and cause uneven wear/tear.

More often than not resurfaced rotors or new rotors w/ new pads will always sit true (or as true as can be). When you do resurfaced rotors with used pads (i.e. rotors are warped but you have plenty of pad life) this can cause braking to be not 100% optimal.


-Noah

 

I would suggest learning how to both bleed brakes and swap pads just for your own personal benefit, and then decide if you want to tackle performing either yourself or having a reputable shop do the work.

 

yeah just saw a video tutorial and its much easier than i expected from reading on how to do it.