yeah the belt is tight.

 

I just did this job recently. The marks only line up before you start rotating. I'm sure they line up again at some random number of rotations but it's way up there. We went about 10 rotations in one direction and they never lined up again until we went in the opposite direction for 10 rotations.

BTW, I used a small mirror to ensure that the lower marks are lined up perfectly. With the mirror down by the grill, you can view the marks, stratight on. Oh, we also added marks to the leading edge of the belt with a silver marker...just extended the white lines on the belt.

 

which is why i had mine done haha

 

thanks for the help guys. almost done!

 

SWEET!!!! glad its comming out right

 

for anyone doing it in the future, take off the lower tensioner first. everything lines up much easier. i tried lining everything up with it on..lets just say i almost threw in the towel after 3 hours.

 

 

Didn't the DIY tell you to add the tensioner last?

 

nope, did it straight up on the get go. the tensioner looked pretty easy to get by, but at the end, should have just taken it off completely...

 

You might also want to change out your water pump, water pump gasket, oil pump O-ring, crank seal, timing belt tensioner, 5th idler pulley(new gen with 2 bearings), 5th idler pulley bolt, thermostat and thermostat gasket.. You are already in there with everything apart...

 

Thanks to all those who gave advice on the timing marks on the belt! I'm finally done with the install and feel proud of accomplishing this feat.

In regards to the above post, I actually removed not only the tensioner until the end but I also took off the smallest roller on the upper right so I could have more slack. After all idlers were changed, I put on the belt, tensioner then the small roller. Took me about 12 hours total b/c I forgot (looks like another thread poster also did this) that one of the idlers has been superceded so you will actually have two of the same idlers even though what's coming off of the car are two different idlers.

In any case, it's easy and only took me 12 hours b/c I was cautiously slow, detailed and redid it twice (not to mention stuck b/c I wasn't sure if the timing marks were always going to match on the belt/gears after some revolutions). I'd highly recommend getting two 10mm allen wrenches b/c the rachet/hex socket combo will freely spin the cam gears if you go too far. I suppose I could probably do it in less than 3 hours the next time around.

As for parts replacement, I replaced the T-belt with the supposedly stronger Gates belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, all rollers and idlers. Parts cost was about $320. A big time waster is actually filling the coolant. I should have filled it from the upper radiator hose rather than from the radiator cap and then topped it off from the radiator cap.

For those looking to do this yourself, as long as you have the mechanical aptitude and the patience, it is very doable at home with relatively basic tools (a helper is always a plus).

 

Did you also make sure to remove all the air from the coolant system?

 

You should refill at the turbo coolant resevoir with the motor running to make sure all bubbles are removed. Also, instead of the allen you suggested, you can use a socket on a breaker bar...that's what I used anyway.

 

Put the car in 5th and step on the brakes while somebody uses a socket and a breaker bar to remove the nut. Takes 1 second and it's fool proof.

 

yea it helps to burb the system with the cap open by squeezing the upper rad hose. Anyone know any tricks for getting the pulley off on an AT?