Is there an automove battery that can withstand 2 weeks w/o driving?
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From: East Bay / Pomona
Car Info: '02 PSM WRX
Is there an automove battery that can withstand 2 weeks w/o driving?
I currently have a Odyssey PC680 and it's at the point where I'm lucky if it holds it's charge for 3 days without driving. I've also noticed with my sound system, I can't listen to it for the last few minutes of my drive, or the battery won't even last overnight. It's nothing fancy, just a RF 600.5 with a 10" infiniti sub that takes about 200 watts.
I'm biking a lot more so the car is sitting a lot more. Is there any battery that can take the trickle drain for maybe up to 2 weeks without driving or am I going to have to rewire the cig lighter and get a solar trickle charger?
I've searched but it seems everyone is moving over to lightweight batteries, or they still have the old pre-buyout Optimas, and now post-buyout they're hyped up overpriced batteries.
I'm biking a lot more so the car is sitting a lot more. Is there any battery that can take the trickle drain for maybe up to 2 weeks without driving or am I going to have to rewire the cig lighter and get a solar trickle charger?
I've searched but it seems everyone is moving over to lightweight batteries, or they still have the old pre-buyout Optimas, and now post-buyout they're hyped up overpriced batteries.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Bizerkeley
Car Info: MBP 02 WRX wagon
Any battery that isn't at the brink of death should be able to handle a couple of weeks without a problem, I expect yours is not going to last much longer even if you drive every day
It doesn't seem like the battery is the issue. Something in your car is probably drawing excess current. That will cause the battery to die.
Get a multimeter that reads mA. Disconnect your negative terminal and run the multimeter in series between the terminal and the clamp. Look at the reading. If it's high, you have a problem. Disconnect a fuse or stereo component one at a time and see the reading. If the mA drops significantly, you've found the source that's killing the battery. If not, reconnect and move onto the next item.
Get a multimeter that reads mA. Disconnect your negative terminal and run the multimeter in series between the terminal and the clamp. Look at the reading. If it's high, you have a problem. Disconnect a fuse or stereo component one at a time and see the reading. If the mA drops significantly, you've found the source that's killing the battery. If not, reconnect and move onto the next item.
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Car Info: sold 2012 wrx sedan (sold 02 WRX wagon)
The odyssey PC6800 battery is the one recommend for my BMW R1100RT motorcycle. According the Odyssey's website the PC680 has a small reserve capacity:"Recognize that the reserve rating is small, so storage time with computer draw can discharge the battery in a few weeks." "Excellent starting battery where high reserve capacity is not required."
You might be better off with a different type of battery.
You might be better off with a different type of battery.
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From: East Bay / Pomona
Car Info: '02 PSM WRX
What battery would that be?
I just tried it, and I dunno if this sound correct, but I got .01mA, with an occasional .02 (i'm assuming that's the 2-way alarm sending a signal to my pager). This is with no doors open, just the hood. It seems low, but does this sound right?
I have a Clifford Matrix 50.5x 2-way alarm.
Yeah, when I bought the battery, I was planning on driving it every day, so I didn't have to worry about it. Plus, it used to last me at least 1.5 weeks of just the car sitting there. However, I bought it a little over 3 years ago, and am basically accepting that it's almost dead.
It doesn't seem like the battery is the issue. Something in your car is probably drawing excess current. That will cause the battery to die.
Get a multimeter that reads mA. Disconnect your negative terminal and run the multimeter in series between the terminal and the clamp. Look at the reading. If it's high, you have a problem. Disconnect a fuse or stereo component one at a time and see the reading. If the mA drops significantly, you've found the source that's killing the battery. If not, reconnect and move onto the next item.
Get a multimeter that reads mA. Disconnect your negative terminal and run the multimeter in series between the terminal and the clamp. Look at the reading. If it's high, you have a problem. Disconnect a fuse or stereo component one at a time and see the reading. If the mA drops significantly, you've found the source that's killing the battery. If not, reconnect and move onto the next item.
The odyssey PC6800 battery is the one recommend for my BMW R1100RT motorcycle. According the Odyssey's website the PC680 has a small reserve capacity:"Recognize that the reserve rating is small, so storage time with computer draw can discharge the battery in a few weeks." "Excellent starting battery where high reserve capacity is not required."
You might be better off with a different type of battery.
You might be better off with a different type of battery.
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From: on the way to lake tahoe to shread! turbo beast
Car Info: 2016 WRX, 2014 lifter forester XT, 2005 JDM207 WGN
My stock one from back in 2994 when I got the car works fine...I have gone 3 weeks and it started right up
i have a 4 year old optima and i left the car for a month when i went on vacation. started right up when i returned. well, i did unplug the battery before i left though.
That's your problem right there. i had lightweight batteries in the past, but they lose charge like crazy - I mean one time my FMIC couplers blew off and I had to leave the hazards on for 20 minutes... battery DEAD.
Just get a real battery. 15 pounds weight savings on a streetcar isn't worth the headache


