Now that it's getting warmer, I am feeling like, as the owner of a 2002 WRX, it's probably going to be my year for a radiator. I would like to pick one up and do the coolant frush and all that before things get serious. I just turned over 65k miles, so it's probably the perfect time for that.

So.. With the radiators, I see some basic options:

1. Stock
2. Stock style - Koyo makes one
3. All-aluminum - looks like Koyo and Mishimoto would be the choices here

From my searching around and such, I have decided to go with this one:

Koyo Aluminum Racing Radiator Manual Transmission Subaru WRX 2002 R2450 at RallySportDirect.com

Anyone have any thoughts, comments or concerns there? Got one? Etc.

Next up is that I noticed my A/C compressor kicking on a lot lately, and it has clutch butter streaking back from the clutch which says it's probably going to die soon. Probably just going to get a reman compressor. Any thoughts, comments or horror stories there?

Thanks in advance!!

 

I have that Koyo...

pros: more coolant, so really takes the hot weather well; fitment great (pro-tip: use M6 bolts to hold OEM fans on it, not sheet-metal screws)

cons: More coolant, so takes longer to heat up in winter, t-stat stays open longer; pushes fans back so you have to trim the upper hose at the block some; mine developed at pinhole leak dead center on the rear side about 8" up from bottom at ~1 year (went with cheap vendor, so no OEM warranty - L&L). I used all the supports, etc. and don't flogg it a lot. Too lazy to pull and patch/replace, so living with small leak (seems to seal up mostly when its all heated up) until next coolant service). If I replace, will just get a mishimoto or CX racing. HTH

 

I did a goid amount of research a and decided to go worth the koyo oe replacement unit.
The factory radiator lasted for 103K miles and never got hot even being pounded at autocrosses. I can't think of a good reason to mess with the design.

 

Ron Davis

 

My stock radiator in my '02 lasted a touch over 100k miles. Unless you have a need for a full aluminum radiator, I'd stick with an OE replacement. Since you have such low mileage on your car, think of it as your stock OEM one lasted 12 years, if you get a OE replacement, give yourself ~ another 12 years until you might need to think of replacing it.

Remember you can get a Koyo OE replacement (plastic end tanks) + fluids, installed for less than the cost of just buying a Koyo full aluminum radiator unit.

 

I did the same thing. I think my first one blew at 130k or so. I'm at 235k now so I'm kind of expecting this one to cornhole itself before too long here.

 

I went with the mishimoto all aluminum (**** plastic tanks!) and I have no regrets what so ever. (note: replace the radiator cap, their caps SUCK)

 

I can ... Plastic End Tanks.

If you are going to get an OE style replacement though, I would still get the Koyo OE Style replacement.

If you go with an All Aluminum style replacement then you should never have to worry about replacement again as it should outlast the car at that point (unless something damages the unit).

Yes, you can get an OE Style replacement unit and fluid for less than the cost of an all aluminum unit now. If you ever have to replace it, that shouldn't be for a long time down the road, but at that point the cost of the second replacement will cost more than just replacing the unit with an All Aluminum style unit now.


Basically:

OE Style: Costs less overall now, may have to replace at some point in the future.

All Aluminum: Costs more now, should potentially outlast the car without need for replacement in the future.

 

In regards to your AC compressor and AC clutch, AC systems need oil in the system to lubricate the compressor, it's not uncommon for some compressor oil to leak past the seal, and it's also circulating in the (sealed) system to a degree and you can usually see dirt mixed in with oil on any of the AC components that are leaking. More troubleshooting would be warranted. How bad is it leaking? Is the compressor not working properly (pressure output on high side and suction on the low side)? Compressor excessively noisey? You could probably just replace the compressor seal and it will be fine, but once you open the AC system, you need to evacuate and recharge it and refill the refrigerant and oil back into the system.

 

65k? Assuming you did regular fluid flush, your good for another 65k.....

 

Gotta figure the plastic ages even if the odo is not spinning...

 

I appreciate the responses - thanks!! Just a couple details about me and my car - I purchased my car in March of 2012 w/ 51k miles on it. The previous owner had put ~178 miles on it since 2007. It now has 65k miles on it, and has spent literally months of that time in the shop (just got done with a 5spd swap and some suspension work).

Since I purchased the car, I have had a few things done to it, and I expect to do some track days. It's making around 275@ the wheels now on the "don't blow things up" tune. I want to be able to be on a track in the summer and not have anything to worry about with my cooling system.

If I had a stock car w/ 65k miles on it, and did not intend to modify it or take it on track days, I wouldn't have posted this thread. I am just trying to see if going with the aluminum radiator has any drawbacks really.

I had intended to go with the Koyo OEM style replacement, but I have a thing against plastic end tanks, I guess in principle. The price difference between Koyo's two units is not meaningful to me, as I will be paying to have the work done anyway.

Looks like the Koyo stock replacement is only available for A/T cars, but that should not really be a problem unless the cooler takes up a lot of space or something. Anyone find a M/T specific unit?

Yep, I have seen them blow apart on other cars before, rarely of course... Just makes me just not like them, even though they are really never a problem on a stock car.

 

I was making good money when my radiator blew so I went with they koyo aluminum. If I where strapped I would have considered the OE style. I needed some other work done so I HD Kevin at AutoHQ install it but I bet its not hard. So I vote if you can afford it go aluminum and call it done, don't have to worry about it.

Isn't the thermostat housing plastic as well?

 

My radiator cracked around 103k miles.

I ended up getting a full aluminum radiator from CXracing. 100% perfect fitment for install and the OEM fans.

Company is in CA so I think it took 2-3 days standard shipping to get it. Biggest pro was it was cheap, less than $150.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...de=RAD-WRX022L

I think they might be even cheaper on their ebay store.

Ive been running mine for about 5 years/40k ish miles with ZERO issues. Have a few friends up here in Sac running them as well with no problems.

 

damn ! 02 wrx with 65k miles? super low