Some really interesting Oil info
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Some really interesting Oil info
Earlier today one of my very knowledgeable engine builder friends (you guys who know my background know that's not an easy complement to earn ) sent me some really interesting data on engine oils.
This guy is an actual engineer, who does testing, solid testing. He doesn't sell oil, he's just interested in the data
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
It's a long read, but you are going to be very surprised by the results
My oil buying habits are about to change.
This guy is an actual engineer, who does testing, solid testing. He doesn't sell oil, he's just interested in the data
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
It's a long read, but you are going to be very surprised by the results
My oil buying habits are about to change.
Nobody likes the tuna here
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Glad #4 is the first oil that doesn't require additives and it's the one I use. Different weight though.
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LOL yes, lets all use T6, and once again I am PROVEN right, its a **** oil. That said its not going to change what I buy, I use the Motul 8100, I just am not sure I can justify the v300 stuff for day to day driving.
"It’s also a similar situation where a fair number of people have managed to get away with using Diesel oils for breaking-in high performance flat tappet engines. They were able to squeak by with Diesel oil even though these oils also provide only minimal wear protection capability, which puts their engines at a substantial risk of failure. These folks “thought” they were getting outstanding wear protection. But, I tested 13 different popular conventional and synthetic Diesel oils, including the “OLD” Rotella, and they had a “Load carrying capacity/Film strength” of only 72,408 psi on average, putting them in the MODEST PROTECTION category (60,000 to 75,000 psi). This wear protection capability puts them right at the upper range of the Break-In oils tested here."
It's QQ thankyouverymuch
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SUMMARY/SUGGESTIONS:
[...]
6. Don’t lose any sleep over what oil brand or viscosity to run, how often to change it, or whether or not it has high or low levels of zinc/phos, because it won’t make any difference when it comes to metal fatigue failure. Just use your favorite oil and change it at your normal interval. Though running a high quality oil with excellent film strength is always a good choice in general.
[...]
6. Don’t lose any sleep over what oil brand or viscosity to run, how often to change it, or whether or not it has high or low levels of zinc/phos, because it won’t make any difference when it comes to metal fatigue failure. Just use your favorite oil and change it at your normal interval. Though running a high quality oil with excellent film strength is always a good choice in general.
For the record, I'm not a butthurt Rotella user.
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The short answer to these tests...
Pennzoil's Top of the line oil mixed with Prolong kicks everything's ***
Cheap 5W30 Chevron Supreme performs better than many of the synthetics
Pennzoil's Top of the line oil mixed with Prolong kicks everything's ***
Cheap 5W30 Chevron Supreme performs better than many of the synthetics
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Engine oil lubrication pretty much applies to everything the same. Flat Tappet pushrod cams are a particularly difficult application is all
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I have to say, this is one of the most most informative posts about motor oils. thanks for posting it up!
but now I'm even more confused. I'm currently using Motul Xclean, and the rating is very so-so. The pennzoil looks fantastic. but should i stick with 5/30? I'm on a basic stage 2 protune (snail performance), E85.
but now I'm even more confused. I'm currently using Motul Xclean, and the rating is very so-so. The pennzoil looks fantastic. but should i stick with 5/30? I'm on a basic stage 2 protune (snail performance), E85.
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I only started making my way through the blog though.
I was gonna do something like that for my own reference. I can post what I have once I am finished.
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I was expecting Most of Motul's product to come out on top, but was surprised that isnt the case. With that said, it would appear this blog was posted back in 2013. To my knowledge Manufacturers' Oil concentrate formula for a given product, can be altered over time (possibly to adhere to changes in a market, or for superior versions). I wouldn't be surprised if data like this is no longer accurate to today's products.