insight from my BAIC peeps: should I rebuild or buy rebuilt long block?
#16
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Can you elaborate on the quantity? I'm starting to hear a slight knock, and I probably go through about a half quart every 4K miles in oil. I'm only at 60K miles too :/
OP: I'd go with a self rebuild. I get the feeling that O'reilly/Kragen parts are decent only for domestic vehicles (probably bcs they have some sort of access to the supply chain).
OP: I'd go with a self rebuild. I get the feeling that O'reilly/Kragen parts are decent only for domestic vehicles (probably bcs they have some sort of access to the supply chain).
#17
Churro Aficionado
iTrader: (38)
Can you elaborate on the quantity? I'm starting to hear a slight knock, and I probably go through about a half quart every 4K miles in oil. I'm only at 60K miles too :/
OP: I'd go with a self rebuild. I get the feeling that O'reilly/Kragen parts are decent only for domestic vehicles (probably bcs they have some sort of access to the supply chain).
OP: I'd go with a self rebuild. I get the feeling that O'reilly/Kragen parts are decent only for domestic vehicles (probably bcs they have some sort of access to the supply chain).
For subaru to recall/replace/rebuild a motor under warranty i believe the motor has to burn thru 1 qt in 1000 miles.
#18
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Join Date: Jul 2004
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In general, if you aren't looking for anything special, a built long block is going to be cheaper than a personal rebuild.
Have you considered doing one of the "used" JDM motors from a company like Attarco?
They can be a bargin with a guarenteed less than 40K miles
Have you considered doing one of the "used" JDM motors from a company like Attarco?
They can be a bargin with a guarenteed less than 40K miles
#19
I was thinking since I parked it outside for a week+ without starting it while the Juneary showers were going on. It could be bad gas as well. I have a bad habit of driving til the last drop before refueling and I've yet to change the fuel filter.
#20
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Another world. Another time. In an age of wonder.
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I have a 2004 WRX with 170k miles (mixed highway, backroads, autox) that drinks a fair share of oil and recently started burning oil without signs of external leaks or in the downpipe.
before it goes boom I want to renew the guts to last me another few years.
I'm looking to either rebuild my motor or buy a rebuilt long block from a shop or some where like kragen, winchester auto, etc...
i'm looking to my BAIC peeps for insight and experiences with rebuilding your own or having a remanufactured motor. Curious about cost as well as longevity.
Any info from local vendors is welcome but i'm just looking for parts cost as me and a buddy will be doing the swap.
Thanks in advance!![TIA!](https://www.i-club.com/forums/images/smilies/tiaiclub.gif)
before it goes boom I want to renew the guts to last me another few years.
I'm looking to either rebuild my motor or buy a rebuilt long block from a shop or some where like kragen, winchester auto, etc...
i'm looking to my BAIC peeps for insight and experiences with rebuilding your own or having a remanufactured motor. Curious about cost as well as longevity.
Any info from local vendors is welcome but i'm just looking for parts cost as me and a buddy will be doing the swap.
Thanks in advance!
![TIA!](https://www.i-club.com/forums/images/smilies/tiaiclub.gif)
#24
the artist formerly known as mcdrama
Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, CA.
Posts: 6,428
Car Info: WRBP 2015 WRX Premium/CVT
The problem with rebuilding is the the temptation to sweeten the package. "Well I've got it apart, might as well throw in some forged pistons" ($600). Soon it will be forged everything, cams, oversize valves, Cosworth oil pump, and then you suddenly have $3000 in parts alone.
Why?
- I recommened a dbtuned built block, I've got one (2.0 with upgraded pistons/bearings) and have been pleased so far (only about 10-15k on it)..took two weeks from first call to paul, til I picked my car up with motor ready to go
You can also go to GST, eq, speedelement, lic, ahq..they can all get you parts so call around and ask
You can also go to GST, eq, speedelement, lic, ahq..they can all get you parts so call around and ask
Some things to remember:
1.your cylinder heads will need to be replaced.
2. All vacuum lines, rubber hoses, etc will need replacing.
3. If you already have engine management, a 2.2 liter stroker engine is a good
, inexpensive option.
4. Regardless of build, it shouldn't take longer than one week to perform.
1.your cylinder heads will need to be replaced.
2. All vacuum lines, rubber hoses, etc will need replacing.
3. If you already have engine management, a 2.2 liter stroker engine is a good
, inexpensive option.
4. Regardless of build, it shouldn't take longer than one week to perform.
2. already planning on replacing all hosts.
3. just a basic OSS reflash, nothing crazy. a 2.2 stroker sounds fun but what is that cost vs. a remaned long block? the quotes i'm seeing for remanufactured long blocks are int the $4,500-$5,000 range.
4. The time it takes to get done i'm not too worried about.
my goal is to make the motor last another say 100k+ miles. durring this "downtime" i'm swapping my stock struts back in, replacing the turbo, power steering pump and rack, brake pads & rotors, clutch, flywheel, turbo, uppipe, and all the little things that we'll inevitably find broken or needing replacement.
#27
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Posts: 15,494
Car Info: 2005 LGT wagon
Can you elaborate on the quantity? I'm starting to hear a slight knock, and I probably go through about a half quart every 4K miles in oil. I'm only at 60K miles too :/
OP: I'd go with a self rebuild. I get the feeling that O'reilly/Kragen parts are decent only for domestic vehicles (probably bcs they have some sort of access to the supply chain).
OP: I'd go with a self rebuild. I get the feeling that O'reilly/Kragen parts are decent only for domestic vehicles (probably bcs they have some sort of access to the supply chain).
Different story with the EJ25x engines; you're lucky if you get an OE engine that doesn't use oil.
In general, a stroker block costs no more than a "stock" block.
In fact, our basic built block cost less than an OEM new block.
#30
the artist formerly known as mcdrama
Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, CA.
Posts: 6,428
Car Info: WRBP 2015 WRX Premium/CVT
and if you're curious about the mod-list: http://slakin.net/wrx/