Hey guys! Seems like i've been posting alot lately asking for help. Just when I think my car is good to go, something turns up...haha.

A week before I got dynotuned last week, I installed my defi blue boost gauge and i decided to make the connections running from the clock as that seemed like the more popular and easy way to go. I had to uninstall my stock boost gauge and I ended up having to cut a yellow/black wire running from my stock boost gauge down to a connection that seemed to not be connected to anything else with a connector sticking out...see picture (I figured I wouldn't need it anymore because that was to the stock gauge and not the new one...) Got everything set up, new defi boost gauge works perfectly. I go to turn on my lights and the main cluster gauge does not illuminate (keep in mind that the gauges do work they just dont illuminate when I turn on my headlights). I didn't want to mess with it anymore because it was already getting late 11pm-12Am or so, so I didn't worry about that for the time being (I don't do alot of night driving, so it was no biggie to me).

Just a couple hours ago, I got home early from work and I decided since I had time, I would TRY to connect the thing back to its original connector to see if the main cluster gauge would illuminate (it worked...connected the connectors together and then test wrapped the yellow wire around the orange power wire and kept the black wire wrapped around the black for ground). The only problem was that the main cluster gauge was constantly illuminated whether i had my headlights on or not, no biggie so I unwrapped the yellow wire and tried connecting them to the other 2 wires to see if it all worked (the black was connected to black for ground so I left that alone). Tried connecting the yellow wire back to the orange power wire 2 or 3 more times and repeated this process 2 or 3 more times because I wanted to make sure that it was right (constantly illuminated main gauge wasn't a big deal for me as long as it was illuminated).

So the final time I went to rewire the yellow wire to the orange power wire to make everything final, crazy things started to happen and not work....

- clock doesn't work
- radio doesn't work
- climate control seems to still function normally
- main cluster gauge doesn't illuminate anymore (functions but doesn't stay illuminated like before now)
- alarm system is all funky now (I have the stock KARR alarm with the blinking blue LED light. Doesn't ARM manually with my key or button BUT as soon as I close the door, the system begins to arm because I can see the blue LED blinking. When the car arms, my receiver device doesn't work and I have to use my key to gain access to the car but that triggers the alarm. Then if I hold down the button behind the blue LED, the LED stays on rather than blinking. Then I can lock the car and unlock with my key without triggering the alarm)

Sorry if anything is confusing...but I just wrote it while everything is still fresh in my head.

If any of you guys can chime in with help, that would be greatly appreciated.

If and of you guys are willing to take a look and help me fix it and know what you're doing, I would definitely be willing to pay you some cash and buy you lunch or something.

I don't want to end up having to take my car in to an electrical shop which will cost me even $100 for diagnostics and then $200+ for them to fix it...=/

Please let me know! thanks!


Picture of the connector I am talking about.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...sKiD/photo.jpg

 

I got confused reading that but the clock and radio not working point me towards the fuses. Sounds like you popped it while checking the connection or maybe shorted the wires? If I was at work, I could check AllData for the fuse chart but that wont be till tommorow.

 

check the room fuse under the hood. does your interior reading lights work?

 

Yeah, I just asked my friend and he said I should've thought about the fuses in the fuse box. I really don't know why I didn't think to check the fuse box. He told me to look for some red 15 amp fuses that are blown and look for the blown ones that say radio, clock, etc. It could also be from my 2 independent fuses from the power supply wire on the boost gauge (+B 0.3A fuse for battery and IGN 0.3A fuse for the ignition).

The interior reading lights on the main cluster all read and work, "check engine light, battery light,etc.". They all work.

What's this "room fuse" you are referring to?

 

You're just like me. I start freaking out and go blank when I **** something up haha. The battery light and check engine light will keep lighting as long as the main fuse is working (100amp i think). The room fuse hes refering to is the fuse that powers the accessories inside the car (radio, lights, cig lighter etc).

I can check the wiring diagrams for you tommorow at work if you're still having issues.

 

HAHA, yeah, I get like that if it's something important, but I usually figure it out.

Okay, that room fuse makes sense then. So it's gotta be with all the other fuses in the fuse box then. I'll have to check all this out sometime tomorrow.

My main concern is my alarm problem, IDK WTF imma do about that

 

can i ask why you are splicing an orange wire to a yellow one?

sounds like you shorted the cluster to power (when they stayed on all the time).

 

I didn't exactly splice the orange power wire to the yellow wire.

The orange, red, white, and black wires for the boost gauge were already spliced into the corresponding wires for the clock. The yellow and black wire from the stock boost gauge, I wrapped the black around the black wire for ground and the yellow wire around the orange for power, but I think somewhere in the process, I may have shorted the wires and possibly brushed the power wire with the ground and shorted the fuse. I may have gotten the yellow wire to orange power wire confused with another one... =/

 

possibly. if you can pull up a wiring diagram it would help alot.

 

clock has 4 wires coming off it.

1) LR - fuse 2 main power battery voltage

2) YL - turns into YG and goes to fuse 9 (accessory fuse) *i think you popped this one*

3) PL - turns into V at connector i1 and goes to fuse 12

4) B - ground


That should give you some places to look.

 

Yeah, thanks man.

I didn't see that the clock had writing behind it that told me which wires go to what until it was too late, lol.

frack...I know I atleast burnt both fuses in my boost gauge power supply line, so I have to replace those 2x 0.3A fuses for sure. Now I just have to see which fuses are burnt and where they are located LOL

 

And my cig lighter fuse works because there is still power running through it, my radar is connected and functions.

I tried my climate control this morning, the lights work but the actuall climate like cold/heat doesnt blow...lol

 

Sorry, i'm not baring anything with anybody.. oh wait...

 

Accidentally shorted a fuse while installing my clock pod gauges. Just go into your fuse box under the steering wheel, look at the cover, it tells you what fuse goes to where, and just start checking the relevant fuses until you find one that's burnt out. If that's not the problem, then IDK.