Help with removing stock bumpstops
#2
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Car Info: '13 BRZ Limited / '02 WRX
You have to remove the tophat and spring I believe (if I'm remembering correctly what bumpstops are, the yellow things, right?)
Be careful removing the springs though. Also, unless you're extremely careful and mark everything correctly, you'll need to get an alignment after you're done.
Be careful removing the springs though. Also, unless you're extremely careful and mark everything correctly, you'll need to get an alignment after you're done.
#5
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Car Info: 2011 WRX hatch gray
Assembly of front and rear suspension (pics inside) - NASIOC
Are you sure you want to be doing this yourself?
#6
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You're going to have to remove the entire sprint/strut assembly and then disassemble it to get to the bump stops. See this:
Assembly of front and rear suspension (pics inside) - NASIOC
Are you sure you want to be doing this yourself?
Assembly of front and rear suspension (pics inside) - NASIOC
Are you sure you want to be doing this yourself?
#8
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Car Info: 2011 WRX hatch gray
After market springs usually lower the car, which often brings them into contact with the stock bump stops (or much closer to it). Bump stops are made of foam which act like a VERY stiff and short spring with an exponential ramp up. When the bump stops are engaged, the spring rate ceasing to be the only contributing part to spring rate... it becomes bump stop + spring rate. The really ****s with the handling of the car. The purpose of the bumpstop is to catch the strut from bottoming out and damaging things; NOT to be your suspension.
If RCE yellow springs came with more appropriate bumpstops, it would be most prudent to use them (assuming they were specified correctly). Mostly likely they are a little shorter, and a little stiffer than stock bump stops.
#10
So after driving on it a bit I notice a kind of knocking noise coming from the rear left side of the car when driving kind of slow. I know everything under the car is bolted down tight but I think the top hat bolts might not be tight enough.
Will it eventually go away after the springs settle?
Will it eventually go away after the springs settle?
#13
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So after driving on it a bit I notice a kind of knocking noise coming from the rear left side of the car when driving kind of slow. I know everything under the car is bolted down tight but I think the top hat bolts might not be tight enough.
Will it eventually go away after the springs settle?
Will it eventually go away after the springs settle?
#14
I'd recheck the tophat bolt, mine came loose after a month (RCE black install) and started rattling. better safe than sorry, and it's good practice to check any install for loose bolts/nuts after a week.