HELP Header coating in bay area

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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 12:07 AM
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HELP Header coating in bay area

I'm looking for the fastest way to get my gt spec headers and gt spec uppipe coated. preferably. local. any help is greatly appreciated. also where does the best deal on coatings. thanks everyone for your help
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 12:37 AM
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crucial
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by gmodc7
crucial
+1

http://crucialracing.com/

Jeremy is a great guy. He's prompt at answering any questions, and is willing to go out of his way to help.
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 01:36 AM
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I'm going to check them out as well
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 04:49 AM
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def CRUCIAL RACING is the best for this
also they have some badass parts

jeremy is good guy also
plus one for CRUCIAL
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 06:33 AM
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Jeremy and Crucial are alright. I had the coating done on a few of my components to say the least. IMO it doesn't hold up very well. It's very thin and after time it starts to break off. Mike at GSt had the exhaust components for the L coated somewhere locally. From what I saw it was a much heavier coating and after a few heavy trackdays it showed no signs of cracking or wear. Give him a call and ask where he had it done.
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 08:05 AM
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I've yet to see any of the various well-publicized coating products hold up.
To do some testing, I sent out a Perrin downpipe to get coated with a well known product.

Peeled/flaked off in less than one month.
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 08:07 AM
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^Swain, Jethot or other?
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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so coatings don't hold up too well? I also heard wraping is bad. what should i do? how much will crucial or other places charge to coat a uppipe and headers?
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 10:07 AM
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Some coatings do hold up, some do not. Wrap is probably the best, but it comes at a price. The finish goes to hell of the piece, if it's not applied properly you could end up with premature failure. It's also very important to apply the silicone coating to the header wrap. Without it it could easy wick oil or other liquids that could potentially cause an engine fire. There have been a few here and there. Most places don't recommend wrapping for a street car. If done properly there shouldn't be a problem.
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:23 AM
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If you want good coatings, I would also have recommended Swaintech. However, I didn't bring this up since you wanted local, and I think they're across the United States.

They have much thicker coatings and I think an overall higher quality coating. However, it is more expensive as you get what you pay for.

http://www.swaintech.com/
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:41 AM
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I have done my header's coating locally. After about 2.5 years of autoxing, I can still touch the header when the engine is running with bare hand. Oh, the finish holds up great, just like day one. My under tray didn't melt from heat too.

I've done mine at some where in Bellmont or Redwood City I believe, don't exactly remember the location, but I just google'd it. Oh, remember to remove your O2 sensor at the header for a week or two after it's done too. Mine got ruined from the excessive chemical and I had to replace it, other than that, it worked great IMO.

Last edited by wm07; Jul 16, 2007 at 11:44 AM.
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by wm07
I have done my header's coating locally. After about 2.5 years of autoxing, I can still touch the header when the engine is running with bare hand. Oh, the finish holds up great, just like day one. My under tray didn't melt from heat too.

I've done mine at some where in Bellmont or Redwood City I believe, don't exactly remember the location, but I just google'd it. Oh, remember to remove your O2 sensor at the header for a week or two after it's done too. Mine got ruined from the excessive chemical and I had to replace it, other than that, it worked great IMO.
You can't remove the front wideband and expect the ecu to control A/F properly.
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by wm07
I have done my header's coating locally. After about 2.5 years of autoxing, I can still touch the header when the engine is running with bare hand. Oh, the finish holds up great, just like day one. My under tray didn't melt from heat too.

I've done mine at some where in Bellmont or Redwood City I believe, don't exactly remember the location, but I just google'd it. Oh, remember to remove your O2 sensor at the header for a week or two after it's done too. Mine got ruined from the excessive chemical and I had to replace it, other than that, it worked great IMO.
do you mean http://www.metalfusioninc.com/ ?
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 09:49 PM
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alternative

Originally Posted by ipozestu
You can't remove the front wideband and expect the ecu to control A/F properly.
what would be a good alternative ...not to foul up the sensor.............?



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