Good Alignment Spec

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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 11:33 PM
  #1  
kennygunit's Avatar
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Car Info: 2006 Subaru WRX STI (WRB)
Good Alignment Spec

Hello,

I was wondering what alignment spec you guys suggest for my setup. The car is an 06 STI lowered about 1" on Apexi Coil Overs. I DD and do some mountain driving, but i don't plan on auto crossing it until summer, so i'll get a new alignment then (when i get new stickier tires). Don't want to burn through the tires too fast. If they could last a year, that would be cool! haha

What spec would you guys suggest? I have front camber plates, and if i need to get rear camber bolts, i can. I wanna just do the alignment once and not worry about it till i start auto crossing.

THANKS!

P.S. Here is how the car sits now. Not sure what the alignment specs are.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexeyorlov/6821226169/http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexeyorlov/6821226169/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/alexeyorlov/, on Flickr
Old Nov 4, 2012 | 11:46 PM
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id say if you dont plan to do any auto-crossign til later on then go with a factory alignment specs or maybe just like -0.5 to -0.8 camber at most.
Old Nov 4, 2012 | 11:49 PM
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My specs are this:

0 Toe all around
-1.8 Camber Front
-1.4 Camber Rear

You can start off with a setup like that and then tweek it from there. Auto-X guys typically run more aggressive setups. Do you have swaybars or anything else suspension wise done besides the coilovers?

What kind of tires are you running right now?

Considering you are worried about tire wear whatever kind of change you do to your alignment settings keep an eye on it. If it looks like something is starting to wear abnormally then adjust the settings as need be. With the alignment settings above I have even tire wear and I do commute about 50 miles a day with mostly freeway driving. Toe settings are the biggest factor in determining if your tires will wear abnormally (assuming all other components in the suspension function normally and the car has not been in any accidents that may attribute to any abnormal suspension quirks that could lead to abnormal tire wear).

Last edited by JelloChex; Nov 4, 2012 at 11:58 PM.
Old Nov 4, 2012 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by xhengmanx
id say if you dont plan to do any auto-crossign til later on then go with a factory alignment specs or maybe just like -0.5 to -0.8 camber at most.
The factory specs for our cars are garbage. The toe has a very wide range of variance. The camber settings in front is barely over 0 camber (-.3 roughly) while the rear is typically around -1.5. With those kind of settings it is no wonder our cars behave like pigs and understeer like crazy.

Even with a factory suspension anybody that wants to enjoy their driving should get the front camber raised up closer to Max Negative Camber (which is typically around -1.0 to -1.5 depending on how much range is given and what could be equalized numbers for both sides). Just by doing a simple performance alignment makes these cars far more enjoyable to drive for someone that actually enjoys twisties and doing more than just straight line driving.
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 12:29 AM
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kennygunit, flukewrx is giving you a lot of good information and also has a good alignment setup for what he does with his car. I autox a lot and run -2.5 camber in the front, -1 camber in the rear, and no toe all around. My tire wear comes from all of the autox I do. Tire wear from daily driving is minimal. What will kill your tires quickly is toe.
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 06:05 AM
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I'm at -1.5 front and -1.0 in the rear. Even tire wear all around and some turn out rotation
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Heedz
I'm at -1.5 front and -1.0 in the rear. Even tire wear all around and some turn out rotation
Nice neutral set up.

I run -1.8 front -.08 rear. Big sways.

Stay farvaway from the stock settings which are -.3f/-1.3r. Silly understeer settings for crappy lazy drivers.
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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Front:

-3 Camber
+4.5 Castor
0 Toe

Rear:
-1.5 Camber
.25 Toe Out (total)


My tires wear even, but that's because I'm hard on the outsides.

Toe kills tires, camber can kill the inside but it would take a long time.
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by joltdudeuc
Front:

-3 Camber
+4.5 Castor
0 Toe

Rear:
-1.5 Camber
.25 Toe Out (total)


My tires wear even, but that's because I'm hard on the outsides.

Toe kills tires, camber can kill the inside but it would take a long time.

your opinion doesn't matter here. LOL! Wow when it comes to suspension I didn't think I'd ever get to say that. woohoo!
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:08 AM
  #10  
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fluke is dead on.

since you don't have any rear camber adjustment, just add at least -0.5 from whatever it's at (probably between -1.2 and -1.8 on rears) so you'll run from -1.7 to -2.3 up front.
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:19 AM
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I have -2.0F and -1.7R camber with 0 toe and I love it.
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:24 AM
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Running -2 front with 6 something degrees of caster and -1 in the rear. BC coils and a rear whiteline 22mm
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:32 AM
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by OneManArmy
your opinion doesn't matter here. LOL! Wow when it comes to suspension I didn't think I'd ever get to say that. woohoo!
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by OneManArmy
your opinion doesn't matter here. LOL! Wow when it comes to suspension I didn't think I'd ever get to say that. woohoo!



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