Got my car aligned.

When it went in the front was about -.9 camber, the rear was -1.6 and -1.9


My new settings= front camber =-1.4, rear =-1.0


what do you guys think?


Will the less negative in the rear make the car turn less aggressively on canyon type stuff???

Did I make the right choice or would you guys recommend changing the rear - camber back to 1.6~


Thanks for helping a newb!!!




mods= ohlins, rce blacks so no coilovers or anything.

 

Actually lowering your rear camber will HELP you with having a snappier rear end.

I like those settings. They're pretty neutral. If you have decent sway bars it'll be a pretty nice set up.

I think you were running WAY too high in the rear before.

high rear/low front... understeer.
high front/low rear... oversteer.


You're will help oversteer but it's still pretty neutral and street able. You'll like it.

 

I had mine set at -1.5 in the front and -1.0 in the rear with 7.4 degrees of caster and zeroed the toe out front and rear. (Perrin PSRS )

On woodside rd I get rear rotation on throttle when turning out it feels great.

You'll have noticeably less understeer.

also it will all depend on how your struts are set up too. I have konis at 1.5 turns from stiff in the front and half turn from stiff in the rear. With a little less turning on the driver side.

 

Will the car still change directions as quickly on canyon turns with the same stability? I'm worried about too much oversteer/ being loose on corner entry. I'm trying to figure out if I'm giving up anything this way?

I really enjoyed the car at thunderhill last time especially in the high speed sections, Don't want to come to find it sketchy/loose on those highspeeders. I do have mild sways and a bunch of suspension braces. I run the ohlins 12f14r, or 10f12r.

thanks guys, sat in stop in go for 2 hours to get home so no cornering

 

I wouldn't expect the rear to get squirrely unless you had a large rear bar/more toe out. Also do you have offset front strut tops, alk, and/or sti acl's to get those caster numbers? What camber bolts are you using (rear only?)?

 

I get rotation on turn out. I have to weight transfer pretty hard if I want rear kick on turn on and compress the front a lot. It has perfect amount of dip and grip on turn in with predictability. If your rear has good dampening I don't see why not to the stability. All depends on your sway too, plus you went from toe out to almost zero toe, should keep it from doing so too.

 

Using rear only stock style strut tops, no adjustable camber plates or anything.

I drove it on redwood today, definitely enjoyed it. I wonder however if I wouldn't like that - camber in the rear a little more hmmm.

 

Each person has their own driving style for sure, I like rotation because I can predict and control it more than understeering out of a turn. It all comes down to preference to be honest wish it was easier to tweak like forza and gt5

 

The more you increase the rear camber the more understeer you'll have.

If anything I'd increase the front a little bit more.

I run -1.8 and -0.6 on my car with a 24mm front bar and 24-27mm rear bar set in the middle. My car is very easy to rotate if I want. I hate understeer.

 

Camber settings are fine, on a street car you pretty much should always go zero toe all around. Tarmac race Subaru's will run 1/16 - 1/8 toe out in the front and pretty much always zero in the rear. With your toe settings I expect the front end to bite well but the rear toe is in my opinion dumb. As it stands your car would handle better with the camber the same and the toe zero'd out and your wallet would thank you for not scrubbing the tires.

Mike

 

Didn't even look at the toe. LOL! I'm so used to just running damn near zero. Street cars don't need to be messing with toe. You can do enough with camber and bars.

 

So my toe should be exactly zero or were you referring to the "before settings". They acted as if it wasn't a big deal that it was close enough to 0, although I did ask for 0 front and 0 rear. Craps. Also are the rear camber bolts safe to use? I'm assuming stock bolts rear won't allow for -1.0, sounds like my toe needs to be fixed then.

Would the rear camber having any lateral grip benefit on canyon roads or just plain understeer, knowing I can only go this far up front to -1.4


thanks for the help guys

 

something seems to have worked its way loose in the front left. Guess I'll be heading back, awesome. **** is unreal, i guess I'll go to AI.

 

-1.4 front -1.0 rear is a great performance alignment, but I messed up a set of tires doing a lot of commute miles with around -1.4 in the front. I did a LOT of driving though... without any twisties, you can wear your insides even with -1.4.

You can avoid that by driving more aggressively.

 

Your rear toe looks fine at 0.01 left 0.02 right. Do not use camber bolts in the rear, they suck. You are perfectly fine with -1 of camber in the back like everyone else said. Camber bolts wouldn't help with adjusting toe anyway. Your alignment settings look perfectly fine to me, nice setup with those Ohlins.

How do you know something came loose, is the steering loose or is something just rattling? Check the usual stuff like the tophat nuts and strut bolts being tight, you don't want that sh** coming loose when you are driving.

Stan