ikearu

iTrader: (2)

Hello all, I have a 98 forester it needs a new clutch I am debating on weather do to it or not. I am a complete noob when it comes to clutches I have never done that but have done a whole bunch of other stuff. I would love to learn how to do it and get some help maybe in the next week or so. Or should I pay the $500 labor and have someone do it?

Thanks,

Ikearu

91vtec

iTrader: (11)

Took me about 8 hours to do mine

Sucks without a lift

You will need a few helping hands and patience

04GG

iTrader: (33)

I did mine myself also on my old Civic having never done one either. Also took me close to 7-8 hours with no lift. Also did the trans on a B2200. Not really interested in doing one myself again lol.

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

+1. takes me roughly 2 hours to drop tranny. Some suggest pull engine, some remove tranny. for clutch , i remove tranny. prepping the tranny for drop isnt the hard part, its removing that beast and reinstalling it, aligning dowels and studs with engine bell housing. the replacement itself is easy with some help, tools (jack), and patience. rush your job, youll misalign plates in clutch, or youll nudge your tranny off jack and have it fall on your arm, meanwhile spilling all its gearoil on your body...ask me how i know :/. and guess who now straps that ***** down before lowering it! LOL

ddavis

iTrader: (4)

If you do it just dont put your throwout bearing on backwards. I did that once before and didnt catch it until I got everything pretty much back together. You will need an extra set of hands to lift the trans back in and it helps also when lowering it. Also a transmission jack is nice to have with a seperate floor jack ready. The hardest part is mating the transmission back up and getting it aligned.

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

+1!
and in terms of throwout, MAKE SURE YOU GREASE! what i do is pack the bearing full of grease, give it a few spins, wipe off excess, use excess on pivot ball on bell housing, and clutch fingers on clutch. nothing like putting in a brand new cliutch and TO bearing to have it squeak! trans jacks are nice because they give you more angle adjustment which is needed when removing trans or engine. Our drivelines run a "canti-lever" design and is slanted back a little. using a 2x4, straps, and a jack under tranny, and a jack under oil pan to life front of engine a little will do the trick. biggest thing is patience. rush getting trans out, input shaft will bend clutch fingers. ive R+R'd my trans prob 10 times withing the last year by myself. all learning experiences. Doing it yourself isnt hard. just gotta find someone with experience to help you with pointers. recently i avoided a major F up with a Auto trans. had someone not told me about torque converter bolts.....eeeek!

GL bro! going back to your question, its roughly 200-300 cheaper to do it yourself. but again, just gotta have patience and drive to learn!

Edit: also heads up, bottom most bell housing nuts (NOT bolts) are a PITA to get to. DONT re attach half shafts till bell hosuing nuts are torqued. trust me

ikearu

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info people. I just found out the other day my oil separator plate probably went bad too. So that's a bit lucky since it sits right behind the flywheel.

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

+1! be sure to go with updated plate and hex bolts! those philips screws strip upon removal unless you have either impact driver or breaker bar with philips head. LMK if u need help with that!

Speed Element

iTrader: (39)

Let us know if you need a clutch job.

-Ryan

ikearu

iTrader: (2)

OK I decided to pay someone to do it. $400 is not bad for labor also I found out the sleeve and throwout bearing are a odd size so I have to spend $150 for a new kit . What was weird is according to subaru of Stevens Creek they said that they say that for the air oil separator plate you don't need to use new screws. I can't trust subaru of stevens creek always but i'm confirming if this is ok to use the old screws for a new air oil separator plate?

02RS25

iTrader: (9)

you CAN reused bolts. but the newer updated ones with allen head instead of phillip, IMO is awesome! makes removal that much easier without impact driver or breaker bar. also, you gotta make sure you completely clean threads and any sealant thats left over at the bolt tip. other than that, as long as Phillips heads arent stripped (like i did to 3 of mine upon removal) should be good. Maybe a shop can verify this or maybe im missing somehting. GL! i WOULD however replace the plate if it the original plastic one.

ikearu

iTrader: (2)

Thanks 02RS for the triple check I was a bit skeptical about it but it did work out with the old screws.

ikearu

iTrader: (2)

Ok my clutch is done so wired having such a light clutch pedal. I got an exedy clutch with a Sachs fly wheel. I found out that it was a wired thowout bearing so they had to get a pdm sleeve and throwout bearing. Now it works great theirs just a weird noise when staring the car up.

91vtec

iTrader: (11)

What kind of noise?

ikearu

iTrader: (2)

Kind of a light grinding noise could it be the teeth on the flywheel are wrong!? I think the thowout bearing is making some noise too! I'll record it tomorrow and post it here.