Naive Questions:

1. I f I purchase the Cobb AP; is it car specific, or can i take it from my 04 wrx to a different year/ make/ model vehicle?

2. Can I F-up my car by changing it to the wrong settings?

3. Will the settings specific to the mods I have in my car?

4. I have a laptop, is that the interface? or is the AP a stand alone unit?

5. How much does it cost?

6. Can I install it myself?

 

I have Ecutek right now Or else I would be all over it like white on rice. I have the laptop, just need the cable right?

 

'05 STi
Helix catted dp
Ecutek w/protune from Mike.
Crank pulley
GP Moto snorkus deletus.

That's what I was tuned on, then I email Mike and asked if it was ok to throw the catback on w/o tune and he gave the thumbs up (5Zigen Fireball) so now I have that on too. Still using the TMIC with a WRX scoop w/squirter.

Waiting to get put on and tuned;
Perrin FMIC with TIAL welded on
Perrin Big MAF
860cc injectors flowed and matched
Walbro 255lph fp
FP Green 8cm

I need a clutch and money for tunning!!!111!!! It will happen by Christmas. I think I will just drive like a normal human for the next month and a half.

 

1. Yes unless you wait for the new AP 2.0 then it is for all Suby WRX's to my knowledge.

2. Yes, it's better to have a tunner set you up and leave that ish bee.

3. Of course they are mod specific.

4. Yes you can use your laptop, and yes it works as a standalone by itself.

5. Currently about $500-$600 then ew one is $700 w/color screen and usb

6. Yes

7. Quit jacking my thread

 

Thanks for the info.....

No more thread jacking from me

 

The old version 1 APs are year specific, however the new v2 APs are more displacement specific.
v1 APs:
* 02-03 WRXs can use the same AP.
* 04-05 WRXs use the same AP, but require a firmware upgrade/downgrade to go back and forth.
*06-07 WRXs use the same AP, I believe is similar to the STi ECU since the STi and now the WRX is drive by wire(electronic motor), where as 02-05 WRXs use drive by cable(cable attaches to throttle body and gas peddle).

Yes. Ask one of our local tuners for help on this, or refer to Cobb's website.
The Cobb shelf maps are designed to be a sort of "catch all" for some basic mods. They do a lot of testing to make sure that the car will run safely with a specific set of mods. If you go outside the modification list they provide, you're asking for trouble.

The Cobb AP "off the shelf" maps are made for specific mods to your car.
Stage 1 - I believe is stock exhaust & turbo and allows for a cat-back, intake, and catless uppipe(02-05 WRXs have a cat in the uppipe, STi's and 06+ WRX do not.)
Stage 2 - catless uppipe + catless or high flow catted downpipe, crank pulley+stage 1 mods.

This may not be 100% accurate, please check the cobb tuning website for the details.

Your AP comes with a DB9(9pin serial) to ODB2 cable that allows the AP it's self to flash new maps to your ECU. You can use this cable along with the Tari Racing Software ecuExplorer to do some basic data logging. you can monitor timing, engine knock, and BASIC EGT & AFRs. I say basic because the EGT sensor is in the uppipe, and the gas temperature drops by the time it gets to the sensor. The o2 sensors(AFRs) monitor just a basic AFR converted to voltage(pretty sure, could be wrong about the reading). The proper way to monitor your AFRs(Air to Fuel Ratio) is using a wideband o2 sensor. this will give you the most accurate reading of how safe the tune is.


Protunes can cost anywhere from $150 an hour to $250 an hour depending on the tuner/shop. You need to factor in cost of using a dynometer as well.


You can install anything on your car with the right tools and guide. You can download the manuals for a price from http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp or try to find them online. Just use google and you'll find them.

 

Im going to go ahead and disagree and say its very likely

At his power levels (260-270whp or so I imagine), the TMIC is already working quite hard, by providing LESS air to the TMIC, its normal operating temperature will likely be higher and likely its heat soak limit will be lower

More heat in the intercooler=higher intake temps=more knock prone

The catback on the other hand should be the opposite. It offers more flow=higher exhaust velocities=lower EGTs=lower combustion chamber temps=less knock prone

 

Sounds like I need to research the auto squirt feature of my IC sprayer. I think I read somewhere how to convert. Will probably do this until I installthe FMIC. btw here where my #'s before I put on the catback, I bet it's like +2whp

 

nah I bet its more than 2whp

I putt down 266/275 on a cobb OTS map with a catless setup at Gruppe-S