I got a brand new catted downpipe and wanted to get it coated before I install it. I want to prevent rust as I frequent tahoe during winter season. I pretty much just want an extra layer of security/peace of mind that the downpipe will be trouble free for the next few years.


Or am I better off just painting it myself with high temp paint?


I'm not really looking into lowering exhaust temps, just want to have an extra layer or an extra preventative measure from rust.


Does anyone know a reputable place, preferrably in the east bay area, that do ceramic coating on exhaust systems?

 

Complete waste of $$..

 

If all you are after is protection...

How Do I Install Exhaust Wrap? - Frequently Asked Questions

Heatwrap it and then coat with Silicone.


DIY FTW

 

if all you want is an added layer of protection from rust, clean the DP with a solvent to remove oils and such then spray it with a hi temp spray like others have done.

Personally i am sending my header out to Swain to get coated. I was told by them that i should install and run my header before sending it in so it has gone through a few heat cycles. I looked into it and other coating companies like jet hot advise this as well. so if you do plan on getting it coated, install it run it for a week or two so it can go through a few heat cycles and then send it off to get coated. this is prob over kill to many but hey if you are going to do something, do it right.. IMO

 

in highly corrosive environments like Tahoe or by the ocean(salt water) your best beat is prevention.
coatings and wraps are great just forms of prevention, and just good standard preventative maintenance is always rewarded
a good starting product is a must; ie spend the extra for quality stainless steel.
and remember to wash the entire car!! this will help the most as the dirt and grime left for long periods will wreak havoc on ALL your components.

 

I pretty much just want to do the install once which is why I want to get it coated now. If I decide to install and run it through a few heat cycles, I might as well paint it for now and see how that holds up after a season or two




I thought about this route, but there is more room for error if I do it this way. There are also not a lot of facts regarding the longevity of this procedure with snow/road salt conditions.

 

During winter season, I usually drive up there ~30-40x to snowboard. First thing I do when I get back is powerwash the heck out of the car (no matter how tired I am). I also drive up on ramps to power wash the underside of the car. My friends and family thing I am too **** but I am planning to keep this car for a few years. I am very meticulous when it comes to my cars, hence the reason why I would spend the extra money and time for preventative maintenance.

 

Always better to overdo it than not do it.


But it's not necessary. We don't use salt. It's just sand. But the combo of sand and water gets that isht everywhere so it's a good habit to have either way.

 

^ I dont think this is accurate... I am pretty sure I have seen HUGE Cal Trans salt piles both off of 50 by Strawberry and 80 by Kingvale...


Clearing the Roadway Surface

Caltrans utilizes snowplows and motor graders for clearing snow from the
roadway surface. Deicing salt is the primary agent for ice melting and breaking the bond between the snow pack and the pavement. Abrasives, such as sand or volcanic cinders, are spread in order to provide better vehicle traction. In some areas salt is applied separately from abrasives in order to better control
the location and application rate. This has proven to significantly reduce the amount of salt used.
District directors are responsible for the judicious use of salt and other chemicals for snow and ice control. Through
operator training and usage logs, the Department has
significantly reduced the amount of applied deicing salt. Without the use of
an effective deicer such as salt, Caltrans would need to require more frequent
and extended use of chains by motorists travelling mountainous routes in the
winter.

http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/snwicecontrol.pdf

 

But it's not as bad as say the East Coast. That much power washing and what not is not necessary. Depending on the quality of the metal used for the downpipe will depend on if or how bad it rusts.

 

True... salt is used but not in the same way it is in other states and not all over the state. I don't go up to Tahoe much these days so I forget sometimes.

Salt is used is solid and in liquid forms on 80, 50, 89, 29, 49 and 267. It's not used much below 5000 feet and it's usually not used alone. We use a lot of sand. And now areas are starting to experiment with other chemicals again to get away from salt because it's so damaging to EVERYTHING. It's terrible for the soil when it's washed off and run into water ways.


So there you go... as far as I know that's 100 percent accurate.



So like I said the first time... it's better to be **** than to not do it at all but it's really not necessary to do it EVERY time. It's like clay bar and waxing your car. It's awesome to do it but if you did it ever 30 days you'd be wasting your time.

So good for the OP for doing it. I'm just trying to tell him that if he's really tired and he doesn't feel like doing it once in a while or he waits until a day or two later when he's not so tired... not the end of the world. It's not like he just took a spin on bonneville.

 

I'd worry more about clear bra 1 season first wrx new 15 trips later it looked sand blasted

 

this

 

Completely agree with OneManArmy... We are nowhere near the same level as the east coast when it comes to salt.

But if we are on the subject...

When you are talking about durability, you are really talking about withstanding the heat and keeping a Rustproof barrier.

Are you worried about it rubbing off? Are you lowerd? Do you like to drive through really deep snow? Gravel roads much?

If not, then I would say spray the sh*t out of it with VHT Flameproof clearcoat...

VHT FlameProof™ Coating

Then carefully install it.

Start your car up and take it for a spin once or twice to cure the clear coat. Then put your car up on jack stands again and give it another coat or two once it cools completely.

Then take it for a spin.

Do this enough and you will have a pretty thick layer of clearcoat that is rated up to 2000 degrees.

Or just buy a high quality stainless steel downpipe.

Or wrap it and spray it...

In the end anything that you are going to do is going to be WAY better than nothing... especially considering that you dont face the same rust problems as someone who lives on the east coast.

 

The coating is 100% worth it, stainless or not

Header-wrap is the worst possible thing you can do if you are worried about corrosion. The wrap absorbs water and will hold it against the pipes.

There is a local guy in Belmont who does the best work I've seen (from anywhere)

Accessories Plus - Belmont, CA