Bushings/Mounts/Bracing
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From: Orinda/Palo Alto/Los Altos
Car Info: Subaru STi Sedan '13
Is the roll center kit adjustable to stock sizing or fixed.. Mooshoo says adjustable but from my understanding it was fixed sizing. But I really dont know much about this specific part.
Whiteline kit is fixed for 20mm lower. I believe the gt spec kit is even more than 20mm. I'm obviously more than 20mm lower than stock, but it still makes a huge difference.
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From: Santa Cruz, California
Car Info: 2006 obp wrx limited sedan
Lol is that right...im sorry I like a little more supple ride rather than my car vibrating itself apart on every little bump...
I guess you are either a woman or a boy racer with a spine of steel?
If I was after that harsh of a ride shouldnt I be buying some bc br coils instead of spending extra money for less nvh?
I guess you are either a woman or a boy racer with a spine of steel?
If I was after that harsh of a ride shouldnt I be buying some bc br coils instead of spending extra money for less nvh?
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From: SF Bay Area - Peninsula
Car Info: 04 psm wrx sedan
I've got alk on both subies and didn't notice any difference in noise vibration or anything
Maybe my exhausts are just too loud I don't notice haha
Maybe my exhausts are just too loud I don't notice haha
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Posts: 3,670
From: East Bay / Pomona
Car Info: '02 PSM WRX
Do yourself a little favor and look here
Products
with suspension, if T I C doesn't carry it, it's probably not worth owning
Products
with suspension, if T I C doesn't carry it, it's probably not worth owning
Also, roll center kit is for lowering cars and correcting bump steer and suspension geometry. If you're staying at stock height, I'm not sure how much it will help your car. It may actually be bad for your car since it's correcting suspension geometry for a lowered car.
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It's not a question of flex, it's a question of cold-flow and tolerences.
Basically Poly is more of a dense liquid than a solid, much like glass. It will cold flow over time and deform.
Rubber bushings don't actually rotate in their mounts, they sheer between the sleeves. Poly can't sheer, so it's forced to rotate. If the tolerances aren't good, the movement isn't consistent. This is less of an issue on modern cars than say a muscle car as... well the tolerances are better.
My philosophy when building suspensions (keep in mind I spent a decade in the performance industry and have Autocrossed since the late 1990's) is to strengthen the chassis first. All of the springs and bushings in the world are useless if the chassis if flopping around under it
Basically Poly is more of a dense liquid than a solid, much like glass. It will cold flow over time and deform.
Rubber bushings don't actually rotate in their mounts, they sheer between the sleeves. Poly can't sheer, so it's forced to rotate. If the tolerances aren't good, the movement isn't consistent. This is less of an issue on modern cars than say a muscle car as... well the tolerances are better.
My philosophy when building suspensions (keep in mind I spent a decade in the performance industry and have Autocrossed since the late 1990's) is to strengthen the chassis first. All of the springs and bushings in the world are useless if the chassis if flopping around under it
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Posts: 3,670
From: East Bay / Pomona
Car Info: '02 PSM WRX
My philosophy when building suspensions (keep in mind I spent a decade in the performance industry and have Autocrossed since the late 1990's) is to strengthen the chassis first. All of the springs and bushings in the world are useless if the chassis if flopping around under it
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,196
From: Morgan Hill
Car Info: 2011 WRX Sedan
2011 WRX:
22mm Whiteline Sway Front and Rear
Whiteline Endlinks
Whiteline bump steer/roll center
Whiteline Rear Subframe positive traction kit (biggest difference, best thing you could ever do)
Whiteline heavy duty steering rack bushings
Whiteline rear diff inserts
GT Spec Rear lateral links
GT Spec Toe rods
GT Spec H brace
The car feels absolutely amazing although it is very stiff, it gets a little annoying at times to daily drive since its so damn stiff and literally going over the slightest dip or driveway the car three wheels but then as soon as I get on a curvy road I fall in love again LOL.
Rear subframe positive traction kit is worth every penny although installation can be expensive, you need to drop the entire rear subframe AND hydrolic press the OEM bushings out.
22mm Whiteline Sway Front and Rear
Whiteline Endlinks
Whiteline bump steer/roll center
Whiteline Rear Subframe positive traction kit (biggest difference, best thing you could ever do)
Whiteline heavy duty steering rack bushings
Whiteline rear diff inserts
GT Spec Rear lateral links
GT Spec Toe rods
GT Spec H brace
The car feels absolutely amazing although it is very stiff, it gets a little annoying at times to daily drive since its so damn stiff and literally going over the slightest dip or driveway the car three wheels but then as soon as I get on a curvy road I fall in love again LOL.
Rear subframe positive traction kit is worth every penny although installation can be expensive, you need to drop the entire rear subframe AND hydrolic press the OEM bushings out.
That's why I went with the kartboy kit for the outrigger bushings. They're inserts instead of complete replacement bushings. It would only be worth it getting the whiteline kit if for some reason you had the crossmember out.
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From: Orinda/Palo Alto/Los Altos
Car Info: Subaru STi Sedan '13
Whiteline has insertable bushings for the rear subframe instead of the complete bushing.. I havent installed them on my car yet but I have heard good reviews.
You chose all good kits but try looking into superpro instead of whiteline. I've heard their production is losing quality control. On my my12 I have all those bushings installed and then some. The rack bushings are not as necessary for a new car (but you will feel a little improvement if you're sensitive like me). On my STI there isn't a ALK but a caster kit instead, and this makes huge diff. Lca bushings will make big diff too. Subframe inserts are very good, with acceptable nvh. The replacement bushings are too stiff. H brace is good, but u will not feel it unless you are driving 8/10. U will love the gr n bushings esp the tranny mount and pitch stop. Also look at the posi shift kit and shifter bushings. Big improvement but there is nvh, very loud gear whine. This also improves the shifting feel and accuracy if you do a lot of rev matching like I do. The positive diff traction is good and you will lose the slop from the back and the clunking of the diff. But u should drive it stock for a little longer to get an idea of it can do stock before swapping parts. Expensive lol
When I replaced it it fixed this steering wheel shimey i get for about 10-15 seconds every 30 seconds at hwy speed. It comes, and goes, rinse and repeat. Only replacing the bushing fixed it, but already it's back.
I need to double check my alignment to see if maybe somehow i got toe out in the front and that's attributing to the ovaling of the bushing or not. maybe for such a fresh one I can salvage it.
I have SuperPro in other places and they work well. Although in the rear left hub, where the two lateral arms come to the hub with that long carriage bolt, the rear bushing has worn a bit. But I've had them in there for about 7 years. So probably likely they need to be replaced soon.
Maybe you guys can give me an idea on fix.
I have rear subframe and diff inserts (WL), GroupN engine and transmission mounts and other stuff. I have an issue shifting into 3rd gear on AutoX. Street or track - no problem. But really cannot find 3rd gear when trying to upshift into 3rd on AutoX. Last time I just downshifted into 1st instead.
I don't have any shifter bushings/linkages upgrades. Only GR STI OEM short shifter. One SCCA guy tried to run in my car and had issues too and he was driving 100% bone stock 2008 STI (minus front sway bar). He didn't have any issues with his car.
UPD. I take it back. I never downshift to 2nd gear on track... So, maybe same issue on track too. But street driving and hard shift after a hard acceleration is no problem (strait line obviously).
I have rear subframe and diff inserts (WL), GroupN engine and transmission mounts and other stuff. I have an issue shifting into 3rd gear on AutoX. Street or track - no problem. But really cannot find 3rd gear when trying to upshift into 3rd on AutoX. Last time I just downshifted into 1st instead.
I don't have any shifter bushings/linkages upgrades. Only GR STI OEM short shifter. One SCCA guy tried to run in my car and had issues too and he was driving 100% bone stock 2008 STI (minus front sway bar). He didn't have any issues with his car.UPD. I take it back. I never downshift to 2nd gear on track... So, maybe same issue on track too. But street driving and hard shift after a hard acceleration is no problem (strait line obviously).
Last edited by wwrx; Apr 30, 2014 at 03:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 128
From: Bay Area
Car Info: 2013 WRX HATCH
Good info from everyone.
I will take a look at super pro and will throw in the pitch stop mount.
Why such mixed opinions on the ALK?!
Also, does anyone have experience with Cusco front member power brace?
I will take a look at super pro and will throw in the pitch stop mount.
Why such mixed opinions on the ALK?!
Also, does anyone have experience with Cusco front member power brace?