Any 408 shops carry Motul or Amsoil?
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Car Info: 2004 Subaru STi, 1997 Eclipse GST(SOLD)
Any 408 shops carry Motul or Amsoil?
Looking to change my oil and was wondering if anyone know of any spots close to 408 area.
I know autoHQ carries motul but any in 408?
LMK
Thanks in advance!
I know autoHQ carries motul but any in 408?
LMK
Thanks in advance!
Thread Starter
Registered User
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From: San Jose, CA
Car Info: 2004 Subaru STi, 1997 Eclipse GST(SOLD)
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
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Get the Subaru oil. ~$7.50 a quart and is what SUBARU USES
I buy it by the case.
Rotella t6 is even cheaper and can be found at most Walmarts, but it is 40W.
I buy it by the case.Rotella t6 is even cheaper and can be found at most Walmarts, but it is 40W.
Allied Auto in Fremont carries Amsoil... not sure about Motul.
I use Rotella in my subaru. good stuff. High ZDDP as well. I have read oil reports of people leaving it in for 6k miles and the oil still have good properties.
As for filters I would recommend a PureOne filter. Cheapest I can find is Amazon
I use Rotella in my subaru. good stuff. High ZDDP as well. I have read oil reports of people leaving it in for 6k miles and the oil still have good properties.
As for filters I would recommend a PureOne filter. Cheapest I can find is Amazon
Last edited by cueballsi; Jul 9, 2012 at 01:28 PM.
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on Junction & Charcot in San Jose (inside Club Autosport) keeps a ton of Amsoil on the shelf.
It's where I get mine, they keep gallon jugs so it's cheaper for an oil change
on Junction & Charcot in San Jose (inside Club Autosport) keeps a ton of Amsoil on the shelf.
It's where I get mine, they keep gallon jugs so it's cheaper for an oil change
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
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I would recommend the OEM filters, period. There have been a lot of discussions on oil and filters, and while there are a lot of them out there that may be better or as good, but I've been using them since I bought my car and have never had an issue. If you buy in quantity, they are cheap (~$5-6).
I tried the Rotella and noticed that though it lasts and works well, the heavier weight seems to cause the motor to lag a bit. I talked to Mann Eng. about it and they said the same thing - they even noticed a slight mileage penalty running it so I stopped using it.
I tried the Rotella and noticed that though it lasts and works well, the heavier weight seems to cause the motor to lag a bit. I talked to Mann Eng. about it and they said the same thing - they even noticed a slight mileage penalty running it so I stopped using it.
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IMHO there is zero benefit to running a 40wt oil in a street car and a lot of downsides.
The heavier your oil, the longer it takes the system to prime. 95% of the wear to your engine occurs during start-up while the system is priming and pressurizing oil to the main bearings. You want to minimize the time it takes to prime by running the lightest viscosity oil you can without thermal breakdown.
The high-viscosity oil myth is a holdover from the days of crappy natural base oils. Today's synthetics have thermal breakdown temps that are off the charts compared to (for example) the old Castrol 50wt race oils
Also IMHO - I've never seen a reason to run anything but factory Subaru oil filters If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
The heavier your oil, the longer it takes the system to prime. 95% of the wear to your engine occurs during start-up while the system is priming and pressurizing oil to the main bearings. You want to minimize the time it takes to prime by running the lightest viscosity oil you can without thermal breakdown.
The high-viscosity oil myth is a holdover from the days of crappy natural base oils. Today's synthetics have thermal breakdown temps that are off the charts compared to (for example) the old Castrol 50wt race oils
Also IMHO - I've never seen a reason to run anything but factory Subaru oil filters If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I thoguht the 5w means it flows like a 5 weight, but protects like a 40.
IMHO there is zero benefit to running a 40wt oil in a street car and a lot of downsides.
The heavier your oil, the longer it takes the system to prime. 95% of the wear to your engine occurs during start-up while the system is priming and pressurizing oil to the main bearings. You want to minimize the time it takes to prime by running the lightest viscosity oil you can without thermal breakdown.
The high-viscosity oil myth is a holdover from the days of crappy natural base oils. Today's synthetics have thermal breakdown temps that are off the charts compared to (for example) the old Castrol 50wt race oils
Also IMHO - I've never seen a reason to run anything but factory Subaru oil filters If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
The heavier your oil, the longer it takes the system to prime. 95% of the wear to your engine occurs during start-up while the system is priming and pressurizing oil to the main bearings. You want to minimize the time it takes to prime by running the lightest viscosity oil you can without thermal breakdown.
The high-viscosity oil myth is a holdover from the days of crappy natural base oils. Today's synthetics have thermal breakdown temps that are off the charts compared to (for example) the old Castrol 50wt race oils
Also IMHO - I've never seen a reason to run anything but factory Subaru oil filters If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Last edited by cueballsi; Jul 9, 2012 at 04:30 PM.
I get my Amsoil from Allied Auto in Fremont as well. It is costly no matter where you get it unless you can get it at wholesale prices and still its not that cheap.
IMHO there is zero benefit to running a 40wt oil in a street car and a lot of downsides.
The heavier your oil, the longer it takes the system to prime. 95% of the wear to your engine occurs during start-up while the system is priming and pressurizing oil to the main bearings. You want to minimize the time it takes to prime by running the lightest viscosity oil you can without thermal breakdown.
The high-viscosity oil myth is a holdover from the days of crappy natural base oils. Today's synthetics have thermal breakdown temps that are off the charts compared to (for example) the old Castrol 50wt race oils
Also IMHO - I've never seen a reason to run anything but factory Subaru oil filters If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
The heavier your oil, the longer it takes the system to prime. 95% of the wear to your engine occurs during start-up while the system is priming and pressurizing oil to the main bearings. You want to minimize the time it takes to prime by running the lightest viscosity oil you can without thermal breakdown.
The high-viscosity oil myth is a holdover from the days of crappy natural base oils. Today's synthetics have thermal breakdown temps that are off the charts compared to (for example) the old Castrol 50wt race oils
Also IMHO - I've never seen a reason to run anything but factory Subaru oil filters If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
If your car can function properly with a lower Weight oil then that is typically what you most likely will want to use. Ultimately you want to use the oil that matches your needs for your car. If you have a normal street driven car you may not need a x-40 Weight oil, but if you were someone that takes their car to the track / auto-x / whatever type of racing event then you may need the Weight Oils. However, even higher mileage motors may be better off running a higher Weight of oil if the engine is tired and getting to the point that it needs to be refreshed.
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Can someone elaborate on the "slight milage penalty" of rotella t6?
Never seen anything about it on the millions of nasioc threads about how awesome rt6 is
Never seen anything about it on the millions of nasioc threads about how awesome rt6 is


