Hi guys,

I have been out of the car audio scene for to long and am looking to build what will probably be my last system. I have alot of stuff left over from other systems over the years and am wanting to put it to use. It will consist be 2 sets of Kicker QS65.2 which the rms is 100 watts per corner. I have a PPI sedona, but think it's a little light for the job. Any recommendations on a quality 4x100 amp would be great.

My sub will be a single SWR-1023D 10" Alpine dual 2 ohm voice coils, driven by my old school soundstream reference 6.0 class A amp at 1 ohm mono and 600 watts. My next question is will this setup be to much for the alternator and battery in my STi? My last system was in my diesel pickup with dual batteries and a huge factory alternator, so the load was never a problem.

Thanks,
Derek

 

I was running 800 watts in mine and got tons of dim but the sti alternator is better than the wrx.

You can have your alternator respun for more output.

 

Good to know, who re-works the alternators? Anywhere local?

 

theres someone selling a earthquake amp on here. i have the same model in my truck pushing 3-10" earth quake 800 watt subs,6.5 rear door and 5.25 comp fronts.

 

I got a 140 amp alternator from HIGH OUTPUT 140 AMP SUBARU ALTERNATOR - HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATORS FOR SUBARU and it seems to be working out pretty well. The stock alternator is 75 amps. If you have the money and want a quality alternator, check out DC Power https://www.dcpowerinc.com/.

As for a 4 channel amp... I'm running an Alpine PDX-F4. Decent amp for the money, does everything I wanted it to do, sounds good, and fits nicely under my seat. Also check out Audison amps.

 

160 AMP HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR SUBARU OUTBACK IMPREZA WRX STI LEGACY - HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATORS FOR SUBARU

 

I would say screw the alternator get an extra stinger battery, talk to Failure on the board here he will point you to the correct direction and has a hook up through all pro audio.

Amp wise for speakers I like the Alpine PDX series but there's definitely more out there.

 

I've run kickers in most of my systems and never had problems...like the adjustable controls on the amp too

And my wrx would get dim lights too...I had 1000 watt amp, infinity fronts and a 10" jl, stock alternator with a kragen special battery haha

My girlfriends 2.5i has stock speakers, a 4-500 watt amp and a pioneer 10" and it never dims even when slappin the sub hard (subaru oem battery/alt)

Both cars have alpine head units

I wonder what the threshold is before it starts to overload and dim the headlights when the sub hits

 

I'm running a PDX 1.600 on a 10W7 sub, vpower f-250 (cheater amp) with 4gauge all the way back on a older model yellow optima with no problems, 2 farad cap which doesn't really help with the dimmer but with sub hits it does. If its the correct battery it should be able to cover your sound system. But obviously demanding songs do at a higher volume.

 

Guessing that's a five channel amp. I'll check it out, but will probably just use that soundstream cheater amp I have for the sub. Sounds like quite a setup you have there.




I like what this amp has to offer, looks like it is 100x4. I'm hoping to fit one amp under each seat so that's good to hear.

I'll hook everything up and see what happens, guessing I'll have to get something like this before it's all said and done.

Ugh...Hoping I don't end up having to get a second battery, Maybe I can just upgrade the main battery to something better hopefully. I just started looking into the Alpine stuff again. I use to run the head unit in almost every car I put a aftermarket stereo in.

Yeah, I'm sure there is a bit of a buffer for extra electronic stuff to go in, but I imagine running your heater, headlights and then turning a high current stereo system up is way beyond the alternators capabilities to keep up.

I love cheater amps, my soundstream is rated at 25x2 and puts out 600x1 at 1ohm. I wish I still had the big brother amp to this one, it was the ref 10.0 rated at 1000watts at one ohm mono. I've been pushing my 6.0 amp at 1 ohm mono for over 10 years now, wish they still built them like that. Some of the old Orion HCCA stuff was pretty amazing too. See them on ebay from time to time and always think about picking one up.

 

I think you only need to do big 3 to run your system. As for the Earthquake amp I'm the one selling it .

5 channel Amp EarthquakeSound
5-channel: 4x100W @ 4ohm or 2 ohm and 1X300W @ 4ohm and 1X600W @ 2ohm.

 

Yeah, it's not going to be anything crazy at 1000 watts, I just want a nice clean sounding system. I would have to change my sub out to be able to use your amp. The current at 1 ohm would melt the 5th channel, lol.

 

Yeah try a stinger battery up front and see if that helps if not get a secondary.
Optimas have gone down in quality.

 

I run a 1100.2 watt sub amp and a 600 watt 4 channel on stock wrx alternator and red top optima battery. No dimming. 4 gauge wires for both. I work in car audio so let me know if you need any advice.

 

Been running the 140amp alternator since my engine rebuild and no more power cut off from the stereo system. No problems at all! Back in the day, recoiling alternators were the expensive route, but now they are very very decently priced. If you don't want to go that route, you can always go get an extra battery....... or a cap.