Alignment, tires, and lateral links..

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-04-2013, 03:59 PM
  #16  
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
 
flat489's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saratoga
Posts: 1,946
Car Info: '11 STI
Originally Posted by JourdanWithaU
-1.5 and -1.6

Not exactly acceptable...
Without camber plates that isnt bad
flat489 is offline  
Old 05-04-2013, 04:56 PM
  #17  
Registered User
iTrader: (17)
 
pho_shizzle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: SLZ
Posts: 6,542
Car Info: MY00 GC6 BRP
Originally Posted by OneManArmy
Jourdan.... you left there with those settings?
Originally Posted by JourdanWithaU
No, that's Zack's image.

My stuff is this...



I wouldn't be terribly pleased with what Kraus did. I'd just pay them and leave. But I wouldn't be going back. Although mine is cropped, it's from Auto Innovations. With stock multi-link rear suspension, only the toe is adjustable. And the cross camber makes my eye twitch. But it's interesting to see that Zack's is closer than mine.
Originally Posted by G_Ride
Why wouldn't you be pleased with what Roger Kraus Racing did? Those numbers aren't bad considering only having front camber adjustment.
Originally Posted by JourdanWithaU
-1.5 and -1.6

Not exactly acceptable...
OUuuuuuuuu an alignment debate?? I want to join!!!

That's what I was talking to erik about lol. We decided you won't feel a difference, until you drive fast enough to feel the difference of .1. But thats exactly what happened to me. I have a .1 degree difference in my rear camber. I don't believe a business should charge me the higher price, unless they get my specs SPOT ON point for point. Thats how I feel.

Now in alignment tech certification, more the more regular commuter cars, you can stay within spec of green zone and still be okay. But for us car enthusiasts guys, obviously precision will matter because we do drive out side of normal bounds. Ill post up my spec sheet too and we can do a cross comparison.

Name:  20130504162902614.jpg
Views: 10
Size:  99.3 KB

They did fairly well for the front, but after they adjusted it. I had a difference in caster, where before there was none and it was matched. The difference is that my rear is adjustable, compared to you two. I have a .1 degree difference in the rear. The toe isn't an issue since .01 degree can be offset-ed by a sneeze. Total toe should be actual 0.21in* not 0.20* (which is what I requested, not sure why the machine doesn't count a .01 and rounds down/up.) All in all, the specs aren't that bad. They are 98% there to 100. Its just bothered me that the specs I asked for wasn't on the penny because they were able to get it all the times before. Also, this time my car veers right gradually after letting go of the steering wheel. And I do not know why........ it veered left all the times before. Why the change, why not go straight!!!!! I have new tires too before I went and did all this, so there was NOT enough time or mileage for improper tire wear.

And their air pressure gauge is way out of whack.
Name:  <a href='https://www.i-club.com/forums/vindecoder.php?vin=20130504163001984' rel='nofollow' class='vin_code' rel=20130504163001984.jpg Views: 9 Size: 44.4 KB" style="margin: 2px" class="post_inline_image" />
Mines ( and others I have used) read: Front- 36 and Rear-34. So thats how off they are. So if they are filling tires, they are under filling.


Doing an alignment is tedious work, I understand. Thats why I rather do my own and take my time, so that if I sneeze, I can go back and redo it. Especially when you are doing plenty of alignments per day. But........... that doesn't mean you can just go green zone on it. Having a laser system......... is what precision is for. When it comes to detailing....... I don't just base my work on the "green zone" to get by.



Zack's toe-in in the rear is not enough to wear down the rear tires that much. Even I have more toe-in than that. Alternatively, you can take apart the rear suspension and re-tighten it....... if you know which way to move things. Unbolting fix parts in the rear, can throw off your alignment calibration too. So if it is non-adjustable, and the difference is after you added new suspension, it is because you touched the bolts and they are degrees apart from the stock location.

Orrrrrrrr you can call it a day and get adjustable parts and not have to get irritated.

Last edited by pho_shizzle; 05-04-2013 at 05:00 PM.
pho_shizzle is offline  
Old 05-04-2013, 05:18 PM
  #18  
Registered User
iTrader: (17)
 
awdorgtfo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Dublin
Posts: 2,349
Car Info: 07 UGM WRX Wagon
Here's mine...The before numbers are wrong. I think they forgot to get a snapshot of the numbers. The before camber was in the range of -1.8 to -2

Name:  nSGoDnn.jpg
Views: 6
Size:  80.9 KB
awdorgtfo is offline  
Old 05-04-2013, 07:11 PM
  #19  
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
 
G_Ride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 7,634
Car Info: Some sort of Subaru
Originally Posted by JourdanWithaU
-1.5 and -1.6

Not exactly acceptable...
It's perfectly acceptable with what's on the car. There's only so much that you can do with only camber bolts up front and no camber adjustment in the rear.

Originally Posted by pho_shizzle
OUuuuuuuuu an alignment debate?? I want to join!!!

That's what I was talking to erik about lol. We decided you won't feel a difference, until you drive fast enough to feel the difference of .1. But thats exactly what happened to me. I have a .1 degree difference in my rear camber. I don't believe a business should charge me the higher price, unless they get my specs SPOT ON point for point. Thats how I feel.

Now in alignment tech certification, more the more regular commuter cars, you can stay within spec of green zone and still be okay. But for us car enthusiasts guys, obviously precision will matter because we do drive out side of normal bounds. Ill post up my spec sheet too and we can do a cross comparison.



They did fairly well for the front, but after they adjusted it. I had a difference in caster, where before there was none and it was matched. The difference is that my rear is adjustable, compared to you two. I have a .1 degree difference in the rear. The toe isn't an issue since .01 degree can be offset-ed by a sneeze. Total toe should be actual 0.21in* not 0.20* (which is what I requested, not sure why the machine doesn't count a .01 and rounds down/up.) All in all, the specs aren't that bad. They are 98% there to 100. Its just bothered me that the specs I asked for wasn't on the penny because they were able to get it all the times before. Also, this time my car veers right gradually after letting go of the steering wheel. And I do not know why........ it veered left all the times before. Why the change, why not go straight!!!!! I have new tires too before I went and did all this, so there was NOT enough time or mileage for improper tire wear.

And their air pressure gauge is way out of whack.

Mines ( and others I have used) read: Front- 36 and Rear-34. So thats how off they are. So if they are filling tires, they are under filling.


Doing an alignment is tedious work, I understand. Thats why I rather do my own and take my time, so that if I sneeze, I can go back and redo it. Especially when you are doing plenty of alignments per day. But........... that doesn't mean you can just go green zone on it. Having a laser system......... is what precision is for. When it comes to detailing....... I don't just base my work on the "green zone" to get by.



Zack's toe-in in the rear is not enough to wear down the rear tires that much. Even I have more toe-in than that. Alternatively, you can take apart the rear suspension and re-tighten it....... if you know which way to move things. Unbolting fix parts in the rear, can throw off your alignment calibration too. So if it is non-adjustable, and the difference is after you added new suspension, it is because you touched the bolts and they are degrees apart from the stock location.

Orrrrrrrr you can call it a day and get adjustable parts and not have to get irritated.
Honestly, I really don't think a difference between 0.1 degrees of camber is actually going to make a huge difference, even at faster speeds. There's more things at work. I think toe and bushings (material, age/wear, etc.) will make more of an impact. For example, 0.1 degrees of toe is 1/32" of toe; that's going to change things.
G_Ride is offline  
Old 05-04-2013, 09:04 PM
  #20  
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
iTrader: (33)
 
04GG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Nor Cal SJ
Posts: 7,034
Car Info: 2010 Hatch, 2011 Sedan
Here is a tip: GO DRIVE YOUR CAR.
04GG is offline  
Old 05-04-2013, 10:39 PM
  #21  
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
 
G_Ride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 7,634
Car Info: Some sort of Subaru
Originally Posted by 04GG
Here is a tip: GO DRIVE YOUR CAR.
That's a good tip.
G_Ride is offline  
Old 05-04-2013, 10:45 PM
  #22  
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
oshrizak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Orinda/Palo Alto/Los Altos
Posts: 1,911
Car Info: Subaru STi Sedan '13
I totally understand that what they did was acceptable for what I have done to my car.. They even pulled me outside because I was concerned about this even before the alignment and told me what needed to be done to correct things which is why I said they were professional in that manor. But.. after driving my car today I feel its still slightly off but that could be because of my supporting mods.. The good thing about my next alignment is that the Owner (Roger's son) is giving me a cheaper alignment next time because of what we ran into and when I get everything I need for my next alignment which will happen once I get my LL, wheels/tires... hopefully I can request for more aggressive numbers.

To be fair they did what they could and were very honest. I checked a couple other places out and they didnt even want to touch my car because of the rear camber.. so im glad I have a car that is somewhat drive-able.

Thanks for the input everyone
oshrizak is offline  
Old 05-05-2013, 09:58 AM
  #23  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
SkyeC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: 925
Posts: 124
Car Info: 2016 STI
There's only so much they can do with the stock adjustment. Like a lot of guys already said, bushing deflection and tire pressure are going to mess with those numbers dynamically, anyway. Looks fine to me, I'd drive it and not worry about it.
SkyeC is offline  
Old 05-05-2013, 11:10 AM
  #24  
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
oshrizak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Orinda/Palo Alto/Los Altos
Posts: 1,911
Car Info: Subaru STi Sedan '13
Originally Posted by SkyeC
There's only so much they can do with the stock adjustment. Like a lot of guys already said, bushing deflection and tire pressure are going to mess with those numbers dynamically, anyway. Looks fine to me, I'd drive it and not worry about it.
That's why I'm just coping with it now till I can order a couple things at once. Thanks

I'll soon be ordering the correct parts / dealing with what setup I want to go with for what I do.
oshrizak is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
nekard
Subaru OEM Parts For Sale
1
03-14-2005 10:39 AM
manman99
Suspension, Handling, and Brakes
1
04-11-2004 01:14 AM
dropkick_muppet
Subaru OEM Parts For Sale
1
04-04-2004 03:58 PM
Andersonwrx
Suspension, Handling, and Brakes
2
02-05-2003 04:04 PM



Quick Reply: Alignment, tires, and lateral links..



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:11 AM.