Alignment, tires, and lateral links..
#17
No, that's Zack's image.
My stuff is this...
I wouldn't be terribly pleased with what Kraus did. I'd just pay them and leave. But I wouldn't be going back. Although mine is cropped, it's from Auto Innovations. With stock multi-link rear suspension, only the toe is adjustable. And the cross camber makes my eye twitch. But it's interesting to see that Zack's is closer than mine.
My stuff is this...
I wouldn't be terribly pleased with what Kraus did. I'd just pay them and leave. But I wouldn't be going back. Although mine is cropped, it's from Auto Innovations. With stock multi-link rear suspension, only the toe is adjustable. And the cross camber makes my eye twitch. But it's interesting to see that Zack's is closer than mine.
That's what I was talking to erik about lol. We decided you won't feel a difference, until you drive fast enough to feel the difference of .1. But thats exactly what happened to me. I have a .1 degree difference in my rear camber. I don't believe a business should charge me the higher price, unless they get my specs SPOT ON point for point. Thats how I feel.
Now in alignment tech certification, more the more regular commuter cars, you can stay within spec of green zone and still be okay. But for us car enthusiasts guys, obviously precision will matter because we do drive out side of normal bounds. Ill post up my spec sheet too and we can do a cross comparison.
They did fairly well for the front, but after they adjusted it. I had a difference in caster, where before there was none and it was matched. The difference is that my rear is adjustable, compared to you two. I have a .1 degree difference in the rear. The toe isn't an issue since .01 degree can be offset-ed by a sneeze. Total toe should be actual 0.21in* not 0.20* (which is what I requested, not sure why the machine doesn't count a .01 and rounds down/up.) All in all, the specs aren't that bad. They are 98% there to 100. Its just bothered me that the specs I asked for wasn't on the penny because they were able to get it all the times before. Also, this time my car veers right gradually after letting go of the steering wheel. And I do not know why........ it veered left all the times before. Why the change, why not go straight!!!!! I have new tires too before I went and did all this, so there was NOT enough time or mileage for improper tire wear.
And their air pressure gauge is way out of whack.
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Mines ( and others I have used) read: Front- 36 and Rear-34. So thats how off they are. So if they are filling tires, they are under filling.
Doing an alignment is tedious work, I understand. Thats why I rather do my own and take my time, so that if I sneeze, I can go back and redo it. Especially when you are doing plenty of alignments per day. But........... that doesn't mean you can just go green zone on it. Having a laser system......... is what precision is for. When it comes to detailing....... I don't just base my work on the "green zone" to get by.
Zack's toe-in in the rear is not enough to wear down the rear tires that much. Even I have more toe-in than that. Alternatively, you can take apart the rear suspension and re-tighten it....... if you know which way to move things. Unbolting fix parts in the rear, can throw off your alignment calibration too. So if it is non-adjustable, and the difference is after you added new suspension, it is because you touched the bolts and they are degrees apart from the stock location.
Orrrrrrrr you can call it a day and get adjustable parts and not have to get irritated.
Last edited by pho_shizzle; 05-04-2013 at 05:00 PM.
#19
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 7,634
Car Info: Some sort of Subaru
It's perfectly acceptable with what's on the car. There's only so much that you can do with only camber bolts up front and no camber adjustment in the rear.
Honestly, I really don't think a difference between 0.1 degrees of camber is actually going to make a huge difference, even at faster speeds. There's more things at work. I think toe and bushings (material, age/wear, etc.) will make more of an impact. For example, 0.1 degrees of toe is 1/32" of toe; that's going to change things.
OUuuuuuuuu an alignment debate?? I want to join!!!
That's what I was talking to erik about lol. We decided you won't feel a difference, until you drive fast enough to feel the difference of .1. But thats exactly what happened to me. I have a .1 degree difference in my rear camber. I don't believe a business should charge me the higher price, unless they get my specs SPOT ON point for point. Thats how I feel.
Now in alignment tech certification, more the more regular commuter cars, you can stay within spec of green zone and still be okay. But for us car enthusiasts guys, obviously precision will matter because we do drive out side of normal bounds. Ill post up my spec sheet too and we can do a cross comparison.
They did fairly well for the front, but after they adjusted it. I had a difference in caster, where before there was none and it was matched. The difference is that my rear is adjustable, compared to you two. I have a .1 degree difference in the rear. The toe isn't an issue since .01 degree can be offset-ed by a sneeze. Total toe should be actual 0.21in* not 0.20* (which is what I requested, not sure why the machine doesn't count a .01 and rounds down/up.) All in all, the specs aren't that bad. They are 98% there to 100. Its just bothered me that the specs I asked for wasn't on the penny because they were able to get it all the times before. Also, this time my car veers right gradually after letting go of the steering wheel. And I do not know why........ it veered left all the times before. Why the change, why not go straight!!!!! I have new tires too before I went and did all this, so there was NOT enough time or mileage for improper tire wear.
And their air pressure gauge is way out of whack.
Mines ( and others I have used) read: Front- 36 and Rear-34. So thats how off they are. So if they are filling tires, they are under filling.
Doing an alignment is tedious work, I understand. Thats why I rather do my own and take my time, so that if I sneeze, I can go back and redo it. Especially when you are doing plenty of alignments per day. But........... that doesn't mean you can just go green zone on it. Having a laser system......... is what precision is for. When it comes to detailing....... I don't just base my work on the "green zone" to get by.
Zack's toe-in in the rear is not enough to wear down the rear tires that much. Even I have more toe-in than that. Alternatively, you can take apart the rear suspension and re-tighten it....... if you know which way to move things. Unbolting fix parts in the rear, can throw off your alignment calibration too. So if it is non-adjustable, and the difference is after you added new suspension, it is because you touched the bolts and they are degrees apart from the stock location.
Orrrrrrrr you can call it a day and get adjustable parts and not have to get irritated.
That's what I was talking to erik about lol. We decided you won't feel a difference, until you drive fast enough to feel the difference of .1. But thats exactly what happened to me. I have a .1 degree difference in my rear camber. I don't believe a business should charge me the higher price, unless they get my specs SPOT ON point for point. Thats how I feel.
Now in alignment tech certification, more the more regular commuter cars, you can stay within spec of green zone and still be okay. But for us car enthusiasts guys, obviously precision will matter because we do drive out side of normal bounds. Ill post up my spec sheet too and we can do a cross comparison.
They did fairly well for the front, but after they adjusted it. I had a difference in caster, where before there was none and it was matched. The difference is that my rear is adjustable, compared to you two. I have a .1 degree difference in the rear. The toe isn't an issue since .01 degree can be offset-ed by a sneeze. Total toe should be actual 0.21in* not 0.20* (which is what I requested, not sure why the machine doesn't count a .01 and rounds down/up.) All in all, the specs aren't that bad. They are 98% there to 100. Its just bothered me that the specs I asked for wasn't on the penny because they were able to get it all the times before. Also, this time my car veers right gradually after letting go of the steering wheel. And I do not know why........ it veered left all the times before. Why the change, why not go straight!!!!! I have new tires too before I went and did all this, so there was NOT enough time or mileage for improper tire wear.
And their air pressure gauge is way out of whack.
Mines ( and others I have used) read: Front- 36 and Rear-34. So thats how off they are. So if they are filling tires, they are under filling.
Doing an alignment is tedious work, I understand. Thats why I rather do my own and take my time, so that if I sneeze, I can go back and redo it. Especially when you are doing plenty of alignments per day. But........... that doesn't mean you can just go green zone on it. Having a laser system......... is what precision is for. When it comes to detailing....... I don't just base my work on the "green zone" to get by.
Zack's toe-in in the rear is not enough to wear down the rear tires that much. Even I have more toe-in than that. Alternatively, you can take apart the rear suspension and re-tighten it....... if you know which way to move things. Unbolting fix parts in the rear, can throw off your alignment calibration too. So if it is non-adjustable, and the difference is after you added new suspension, it is because you touched the bolts and they are degrees apart from the stock location.
Orrrrrrrr you can call it a day and get adjustable parts and not have to get irritated.
#22
I totally understand that what they did was acceptable for what I have done to my car.. They even pulled me outside because I was concerned about this even before the alignment and told me what needed to be done to correct things which is why I said they were professional in that manor. But.. after driving my car today I feel its still slightly off but that could be because of my supporting mods.. The good thing about my next alignment is that the Owner (Roger's son) is giving me a cheaper alignment next time because of what we ran into and when I get everything I need for my next alignment which will happen once I get my LL, wheels/tires... hopefully I can request for more aggressive numbers.
To be fair they did what they could and were very honest. I checked a couple other places out and they didnt even want to touch my car because of the rear camber.. so im glad I have a car that is somewhat drive-able.
Thanks for the input everyone
To be fair they did what they could and were very honest. I checked a couple other places out and they didnt even want to touch my car because of the rear camber.. so im glad I have a car that is somewhat drive-able.
Thanks for the input everyone
#23
There's only so much they can do with the stock adjustment. Like a lot of guys already said, bushing deflection and tire pressure are going to mess with those numbers dynamically, anyway. Looks fine to me, I'd drive it and not worry about it.
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