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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 04:48 AM
  #5  
2.5RS_920's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 42
From: CA
Car Info: 01 subaru 2.5rs
Talking

yea i would also like to know what parts are needed for a rs-T i also have a 01 rs and thinking about going turbo using wrx parts, and how much around would it cost me, thank you
Old Feb 28, 2006 | 04:49 AM
  #6  
2.5RS_920's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 42
From: CA
Car Info: 01 subaru 2.5rs
also where to get these parts from? anywhere cheap, im a bum, i no have no money LO.....no joke....im not baller status like some of you guys
Old Feb 28, 2006 | 06:51 AM
  #7  
impreza25rstn's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 171
From: South Florida
Car Info: 98 Impreza Hybrid
i have a 98 rst. mine runs great. but i have heard of problems running a turbo with a map sensor. i have a maf sensor.

GREAT PLACE TO GET CHEEP PARTS IS EBAY!!!!!!!!!
Old Feb 28, 2006 | 02:32 PM
  #8  
cudaeh's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 989
From: Automotive racist capitol of the world, Detroit.
Car Info: 2000 impreza 2.5 rs
this is what I was told about the map issue when I was looking into turboing my 2000 2.5
"go to radioshack get a 5.1volt 1 amp ziener diode and splice it into the map sensor wire. The stock map sensor runs 0-5volts and when under boost it sends the map over 5volts and cuts off the ecu cuz it can't read it. You splice one side into the mapwire and ground the other end of the diode to the chassis. This allows only 4.98volts to run to the ecu and ground the rest of the volts to the chassis so it won't go heywire"
I also would find a master list of phase 1 turbo set up / phase 2 turbo set up very handy. I think I have sorted out my issues but it took alot of looking!!!!
this is what I ran across when looking.
wrx or turbo legicy front cross member
wrx or turbo legicy water pump (feeds out the front of the block not out the bottem
exhaust manafold
up-pipe
20mm shim between manafold and up-pipe to get the turbo to sit properly
another 20mm shim between the turbo and up pipe if you are running a wrx up pipe, not needed if you are running a legicy up-pipe.
turbo (duhh)
if using a top mount I/C you have to modify the "y" charge pipe. (sock one sits about 2 inches aft of compressor output) some do this by heating and bending others cut and use rubber hose and clamps.
wrx down pipe
wrx exaust, or cutt the flange off a wrx exhaust and weld it onto the rs exhaust in the correct orrentation.
eather a lighter actuator in the internal waste gate or an external waste gate to regulate it under 8psi
all the random coolent hoses, oil hoses and vacume lines going to the turbo
eather the wrx intake (which will require you to relocate the power steering resevwar) or a pieced together intake using rubber collers, clamps and metal or pvc tubing.
wrx fule pump
Grind down the throtel body, and the oulet of the top mount I/C to get it to sit properly and relocate AC lines to accomidate the top mount.

all the stuff mentioned above is stuff I found while doing resurch.
This is what i plan on doing *note WHAT I PLAN ON DOING not what i have already done*

I have a 2000 2.5 rs. that is a phase 2 SOHC engine.
I will run the diode I mentioned earlier (aka voltage clamp)
I am going to have an up-pipe and a down pipe made to relocate the turbo where it is in this blue/green car (subaru svx).
You can see by the pictures of my car (red one) and my obvious mechanical abuility (come on just look at the tattoos thats like +5 for coolness) that the space is there for it to happen.
I am going to have the up-pipe made comming off of my RS borla exhaust.
this will keep me from having to muck around with the wrx water pump and cross member and up-pipe shims.
I will be running an extranal waste gate where the wrx turbo is normaly.
high volume fule pump
A front mount I/C
A wrx TD04 turbo
Lots of bracing to support the turbo and not stress the exhaust joints.
I urge every one to do this.... get your self a knock indicator light. they sell for about $100 and light up when ever engine knock is detected. This will let you know if your set up is not qite rigt weather it be running too hot, spark not retarded enough, or fule octane too low. This will let you know to take it easy on the car untill you can fix those issues rather than wailing on it till it breaks!!!
In order to accomidate the up and down pipe running thru that area I will re-rout the power steering lines and relocate the cruse controle to where the battery was....
thats right where it was.
I plan on getting a battery relocation kit and a good inclosed battery box to put the battery in the truk, thus making the routing of I/C tube easy and clean thru the inner fender walls....
this is just my modest plan to get 5psi of boost untill I have the money to upgrade the internals and have some real fun with it
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 09:59 AM
  #9  
cudaeh's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 989
From: Automotive racist capitol of the world, Detroit.
Car Info: 2000 impreza 2.5 rs
where did you guys hook up your coolent to turbo, coolant from turbo, and oil to turbo lines?
I have been looking around and have found zip thus far!!
Old Mar 15, 2006 | 10:20 AM
  #10  
cudaeh's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 989
From: Automotive racist capitol of the world, Detroit.
Car Info: 2000 impreza 2.5 rs
Originally Posted by cudaeh
where did you guys hook up your coolent to turbo, coolant from turbo, and oil to turbo lines?
I have been looking around and have found zip thus far!!
I hate quoting my self but.
I talked to a friend that used to run a RS-T and this is what he did
Oil feed to turbo- 'T' the oil pressure sending unit hole
Coolent feed to turbo- 'T' the coolent to heater line
coolent from turbo- 'T' the coolent from heater line.
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