oil change (what brand, weight to use?)
indeed go with the Amsoil and try to get one of their filters; they are good for at least 15,00mi. go on their web site and look it up. it's their Ea line of oil filters. the one for my 03bug eye is the Ea012 they have a 25,000 mile guarantee.
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Originally Posted by strider327
5w30 Fully synthetic: Either go with Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil, or Redline. As for the oil filter go with OEM or better.

I dont know how I like it though......I dont notice a difference between oils
Mobile 1 0w40 works good too. Mobil's 30 wt oils are a bit thin for 30 weight and for some people the oil burns off quicker. Speaking on personal experience, 5w30 and 10w30 burned about a quart every 3000 miles, 0w40 isn't burning off at all.
i like wix filters because they have a mesh cage around the filter element preventing any filter material from getting into the pump if there is a failure. i like amsoil and greddy oil but NEO synthetic lubricants are my 1st choice for all my oils. Formula 1, lemans, JUN, wrc all use them. they have to know a thing or two
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Also bear in mind that all modern engines use a bypass lubrication system that allows oil to bypass the filter when engine oil pressure is too high when cold. This prevents the filter from blowing the seal or causing failure of the filter itself. The spring loaded bypass is usually built into the oil filter but is sometimes located in the block. Keep engine rpm moderate until fully warmed up to avoid problems with unfiltered oil going to the bearings.
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I recently searched & read a lot about spun bearings. I was/am curious about why & how? There is some suspicion about boost spikes & over boost. There is also a lot of complaining about Mobil 1. Several changed brands AND went to heavier weight oil ... still a synthetic. It is not easy to get a solid conclusion, but I am not looking either sue or shoot anyone!
BUT ... it seems that the oil is too light ... best correlation that I can get to. I have just built up an engine good for almost 600 whp so I don't want to screw up because of something so simple. Some of the engine builders & pro drivers recommend Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50. Thats what is going in the new engine after break in.
I'm in PA your in socal, your warmer ... I'm also using the OEM filter. Maybe you aren't real comfortable with 15W-50 (it is hard to find), but ...
I also ran M1 10W-40 for 60K in the 2.0L e/w TurboXS Stage 4 ... a lot of road race tracks ... but this time I am sticking with the tuner's recomendation.
BUT ... it seems that the oil is too light ... best correlation that I can get to. I have just built up an engine good for almost 600 whp so I don't want to screw up because of something so simple. Some of the engine builders & pro drivers recommend Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50. Thats what is going in the new engine after break in.
I'm in PA your in socal, your warmer ... I'm also using the OEM filter. Maybe you aren't real comfortable with 15W-50 (it is hard to find), but ...
I also ran M1 10W-40 for 60K in the 2.0L e/w TurboXS Stage 4 ... a lot of road race tracks ... but this time I am sticking with the tuner's recomendation.
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Right now 5w30 because they are no dam shop around who carry 5w50 but next oil change I go for Mobil1 0w40..... 10w30 is for lawnmower not for car 5w30 is for better lawnmower :-)
Don’t put more then 3000 miles oil is most important think in your car bad oil shorts your engine life even if that oil is made for more than 3000 miles …c’mon guys you pay 35g for a car and don’t have extra money for oil change???
Don’t put more then 3000 miles oil is most important think in your car bad oil shorts your engine life even if that oil is made for more than 3000 miles …c’mon guys you pay 35g for a car and don’t have extra money for oil change???


