Guys I need new rotors wondering what you guys recommend...

 

OEM replacement for your MY02 WRX (I had to check your Profile)? Lots of choices for stock replacement rotors. I used DBA one-piece for the fronts. They use their own proprietary vane design that they claim offers an advantage in cooling over the rotor surfaces. It's as heavy as the stock WRX rotor but DBA and others offer two-piece designs using an aluminum hat, if you have more money to spend.

Check the Vendor For Sale forum. I know that SubyDude.com offers a selection of brake upgrade kits, some of which include rotors in the stock size.

What else are you planning on changing at the same time as the rotors?

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"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

 

I have the DBA two-piece rotors (5000 series) in front and 4000s in the rear. They are absolutely amazing -- great looking, non-rusting on the hats and they cool down in literally seconds. They broke in with new pads in about 110 miles and now seem to have double the stopping power of the stock rotors/pads. The installer had never installed these before and he said they were a perfect fit, no tweaking or spacers needed.

 

well right now i found some brembo non slotted or drilled on ebay for a little over $200 and I just put new axxis ultimate brake pads on my warped rotors lol...as for mods I'm running stage 2 with AP and just installed exedy organic clutch and ACT streetlite flywheel...

 

I'd pass on drilled rotors from any source. All manufacturers offer them because customers want that 'racing' look but they all recommend against using drilled rotors for track (road course) use.

The usual route to brake upgrades is improved rotors, pads, stainless (front) brake lines, and a good brake fluid like Motul RBF 650. And stickier summer tires, of course, since you'll never achieve maximum braking performance using all-seasons.

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0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

 

stop-tech stage 2

 

Are you using stock calipers with those DBA two piece rotors? I would love to be able to do that for the weight savings.

 

Yes. The pedal travel is a bit more, as the DBA rotors are skinnier by a few MM, but I was able to use the stock calipers with no adjustment. I don't think you will save much in unsprung weight -- mass is good in rotors, it soaks up and distributes heat. Save weight in the wheels and tires, not the rotors.

 

I don't really drive that hard so the head dissipation doesn't bother me too much. 80+k kms on my WRX (approx 60k miles) still on stock pads and rotors with lots left. I was more thinking of a semi passive weight reduction. I just thought you needed the 4-pots to run those rotors. If I don't then I may go with them when its time.

 

yea I have talked with some people and they do not recommend slotted and drilled because it will eat up the pads a lot faster and will not benefit that much with stock calipers...

 

I went from stock to DBA slotted to Centric blank on my FWD protege. It was a big difference from stock to DBA. DBA was definitly better than Centric, but for my application, it doesn't really matter. Of course my pads went from stock to axxis to monroe. So it's not exactly a good comparison. I wish I didn't get the DBA slotted because I ended up having to have new rotors.

I have WRX front for my 00RS so I am just going with Centric blank and Axxis Ultimate and OEM rotors/pads for the rear. Don't have much power, and stopping power is already better due to WRX front brake system. So I am just trying to keep the cost down.... Especially when I have to do all 4 cornors for both cars at the same time.

All in all... I say get some blank rotors (DBA if they have it, Centric, or Brembo) and either Axxis or Hawks pads and you'll be happy.

 

I recently was in the same predicament [one week ago], and shopped around for rotors and pads. I know I did not want drilled rotors because they are prone to cracking, and I don't like brake fade, so slotted rotors were key in my decision making.

I called four vendors that carried different brands of replacement rotors, which were DBA, Power Slot, Racing Brake, and Stop Tech. The brake pads of choice were Ferodo, Carbotech, or Hawk.

With the information I gathered, I reduced my rotor choices to two - Stop Tech and Power Slot, and my brake pad choice to Hawk. The cost of the Stop Tech's beat the Power Slot, which I got the best deal on.

The brake system on my car now consists of Goodridge stainless steel lines and ATE brake fluid with Stop Tech slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads on the front. I will be upgrading the rear rotors to Stop Tech H6s in the near future.

I bought my rotors and pads here: http://importimageonline.com/index.php?cPath=22_34

 

Are you sure they doubled the stopping power? Did you also upgrade the pads and lines or something?

Did you bleed the brakes? I may be wrong but I wouldn't think pedal travel would change if you bleed the brakes.