n192da

I don't have the big bucks for a Big Brake Kit, or else I'd get that.

I'm looking for a good rotor to replace my stock rotors that have warped quite badly, quite rapidly (it's gotten much worse over the last 1,000 miles).

I'd like some rotors that are 1) at a low price point 2) are made with enough quality so they don't warp again.

Do I want slotted? Drilled? Normal?

I'd also entertain the idea of changing the pads while I've got it all apart. So feel free to suggest something there, too. (I've got 50k on the car)

Thanks guys!

Tele-Viper

Shouldn't this be in the Brakes forum? Anyway, I recently picked up a Stage 2 set up from MPJ that consisted of Centric slotted rotors, Hawk pads, Stoptech ss lines, and Motul RBF and I am VERY happy with the set up. It's like night and day! Check them out.

Nick Koan

iTrader: (3)

I'd go with some stoptech replacement WRX rotors, slotted not drilled. Also, replace your pads with something a little more agressive. I've been happy with Axxis Ultimates in the past.

n192da

Will those pads work when I need them to this winter, when I go driving up in the snow?

I plan to do a LOT of skiing this year.

scottzg

its probably not the rotors but the pad material sticking to the rotors. Resurface or replace, and get higher heat range pads.

Wingless Wonder

iTrader: (7)

Ultimates work fine for street use. Okay for mild track use on near stock cars, too. They dust a lot but the dust doesn't seem to affect the surface finish of wheels. Stick with slotted. Drilled rotors look trick but can be failure-prone on a road course.

I'm using DBA 650 series slotted rotors (stock replacement), Motul RB600 brake fluid (although they have another fluid specifically for use with factory ABS-equipped vehicles), Axxis Ultimate pads, and StopTech stainless braided brake lines for the fronts, only. Pad change, only, for the rear brakes as I don't feel that the rears contribute much under hard braking for a lightly modified WRX.

When it comes time for rotor replacement, I would like to get some two-piece rotors with an aluminum hat section for reduction of unsprung weight but these also cost more than what I'm using now.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

Imprezer

iTrader: (9)

Rotora rotors and lines. PMU pads.

GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

+1

I actually have the Stoptech BBK on my car (03 WRX sedan).....but I will tell you, the Stoptech rotors are Super high quality, and I wouldn't use anything else. I would HIGHLY recommend using the 2 piece rotors if you are going aftermarket. Spend a bit more in the beginning, and you'll be happy for a long time to come....your brakes are NOT an area you want to go cheap on. I also installed the Stoptech slotted rear stock rotor replacements w/Axxis pads on all 4 corners....The Axxis pads work well for daily driving (including snow, I've driven up to Reno MANY times last winter with the stoptechs w/no issues.) but they dust like H3LL!

Actually, now that I think of it PowerSlot Rotors are actually very nice rotors as well, but I think they are one piece, not 100% sure on that.

You wanna stay away from Drilled rotors, esp. if you are going to be using them for trackdays....drilled rotors will tend to crack if they are abused too much. Slotted are the way to go.

I'm also using the Motul RBF600 brake fluid, but ATE SuperBlue is also a very reputable choice.

I have heard alot of good things about HAWK pads.....I dont have much to say about them, cuz I've never used 'em, but I think those are what I will get next time.

-Ted

n192da

I ordered up some slotted Stoptech Rotors ($194) from a vendor here in Portland Oregon. I got the Axxis Ultimate pads to go with it, too.

I'll check out that fluid. Probably would be a good idea to bleed out the old brake fluid and put in the new stuff while I've got it all apart? (I've never done this before)

GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

Sweet, you wont regret it! And yes, absolutely, drain all the brake fluid out of the system. You dont wanna mix the new brake fluid with the old crap. Make sure you soak the flare nut on the hardline, that the soft lines attach to with some sort of penetrating oil (I used liquid wrench) and let them soak for like 30 min. before you remove the rubber brakelines. It will make your life much easier. and ALWAYS use a flare nut wrench! Here's a link to a thread I posted when I did my stoptechs: https://www.i-club.com/forums/suspension-handling-brakes-195/some-critical-info-hard-brakelines-75272/
You should check it out

-Ted

n192da

Why do I need to replace all my brake fluid? I had it changed 15k miles ago.

I was under the impression that all I needed to do, in order to make the newer-thicker pad fit on the newer-thicker rotor, was to compress the cylinder while opening the bleeding valve. I didn't think I was adding ANY new fluid to the system.

No?

EDIT: ALSO, I am not replacing the lines. I am using the stock brake lines.

GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

ahhh, ok....however, if you are putting in a different type of brake fluid in the system (going from Stock fluid to Motul RBF600 or ATE) Yes, you have to drain all the fluid out, you DONT want to mix DOT3 fluid with DOT4, it will defeat the purpose of using DOT 4. If your going to continue using the same fluid you are currently using, then you WONT have to drain the system, just top it off.

-Ted

n192da

Cool.

Another thing... when you're flushing/replacing the brake fluid, can you replace just the front fluids or do you have to do front and rear? Is it all one in the same?

Nick Koan

iTrader: (3)

The fluid is all interconnected through the same piping, so you'll have to do them all.

The order you want to flush in is:
Right Front
Left Rear
Left Front
Right Rear

GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

/\ +1 what he said /\

-Ted