brake in
 

i have a 07 sti
keeping the rpm under 4000 for 1000 miles is not easy
what is wrong with brakeing it in for only 200 miles?
what is the worst than can happen?
and in the unlikely event that something does brake will the dealer know i didn't brake it in properly and HOW??

It needs time for the rings to seat properly.

I(not speaking for everyone)would


0-500 miles on the odometer - NO more than 3500rpm
500-700 miles on the odometer - go to 4500rpm once every 100 miles
700-1000 miles on the odometer - go to 6000rpm once every 100 miles

don't slam on the gas, increase RPM smoothly,

You have a nice car. Show self control so you can enjoy it for a long time.

the worst that could happen is that you could blow your motor. :rolleyes:

Take the advice, and follow the recommended break in period.
The first few thousand miles on a new car are the most important.

Keeping the car below 4000 rpms isn't difficult. It is just going to eat at you.

I would follow the rules. The best of what I read:

[url]http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm[/url]

Although for motorcycles the principles still apply. Hard on the gas to 4k everywhere till 1k miles. When you are hard on the gas pedal the gas from combustion is allowed to expand the o-rings. This wears the o-rings to the cylinder walls. No problems and almost no oil comsumption.

im planning on doing an aggressive break in on my new motor like the link states above but im not sure how it would do with stock internals. Its usually reccomended for built motors. or at least thats my understanding.

Please, please ignore the comparisons to a motorcycle race engine. Do NOT try for a "hard break in" -- it would gain you almost nothing, and perhaps cost you years of potential engine life. Follow the exact break-in procedure. It is there for a reason; there is no Subaru conspiracy to force you to break in the engine improperly and cost you a few HP.

The one important thing to remember is to vary your RPM; avoid a long highway drive at the same RPM for a long time. Instead, take the streets and do a lot of stop-and-go at normal speeds and "roll in" to the gas. Your aim here is to seat the piston rings without "glazing" them and do so evenly as possible around the full circumference of the piston. I don't see the logic about how driving the car in an abusive fashion would make this more likely.

search = break-in

[url]https://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95516[/url]

"We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing."

I race motocross and I always build my motors dry and break them in hard. You can easily see traces of blow by on the stock piston as it is built with oil from the factory. You can see the difference in oil consumption.

Oh well, I accidentally redlined my new 07 wrx with 200 miles on it. I wasn't paying attention and accidentally shifted into second instead of fourth. That one scared me. Other than that i've been cautious and its runs great.

[QUOTE=meilers]Please, please ignore the comparisons to a motorcycle race engine. Do NOT try for a "hard break in" -- it would gain you almost nothing, and perhaps cost you years of potential engine life.[/QUOTE]

x1000.

Lets not forget that 30,000 miles is considered by many to be high-mileage for a motorbike.

I think the only wat to tell is to have 2 cars which were broken in differrently, but driven the same for about 30k miles, tear down the engines, and inspect the cylinders and piston rings...

there's a few diff theories about breaking-in an engine, but the thing that comes up the most is heat cycling and piston ring seating, once all that is done, however it's done, the engine's broken in.

:-)