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Soccer05 Bugeye GTX 3071 Street Track Build Thread
So after a long long time planning and saving, saving and planning, I am ready to really jump head first into my bugeye build. The car starts as a 2003 Subaru WRX with the OEM 5 speed. I have always been a suspension junkie, and focus a ton of time and effort onto having a stable chassis. This is a budget build, and basically is the maximum you can take the stock block and heads. Unfortunately, it costs quite a bit more money to cure all the wrx's suspension geometry than my 240sx, so while the majority of the suspension arms are adjustable, I will not be doing adjustable hubs to truly cure the wrx's suspension geometry. Nonetheless, you can have a competitive, fast, fun car without making the 5 grand investment in hubs. This build will cover my complete suspension makeover on the car, as well as a very healthy power upgrade and light aerodynamic work. All work is being done by me, alone, in my garage. My goals are to create a stable, competent base for me to hone my driving skills at track days. This car is my dual purpose daily driver and weekend toy, so there is some balance to keep the car fun and fast on the canyon roads in California. This car will be an aggressive street tarmac car as well as a potent entry level track/hpde vehicle to hone my track skills with an awd platform.
The bugeye is very slightly modified in its current state, just enough to be a little fun on the streets. It currently has Whiteline front and rear 24mm adjustable swaybars, Whiteline HD Swaybar mount, Whiteline steering rack bushings, Hotchkis Front Adjustable Endlinks (Whiteline Spherical One seized and broke about a month ago), H&R Coilovers, Ground Control Front and Rear Camber Plates, Cusco Engine Mounts, Whiteline transmission X-member bushing, and Kartboy forward shifter bushing. The transformation these meager changes made gives me a lot of hope and excitement at the potential of this build. Hopefully this thread will help others see what goes into a build as mild as a bolt on build, and give more respect for the custom fabrication that goes into full on track builds. I would like to thank the following shops and people for taking time out of their busy schedules to help what is truly a budget street/track build- Noah and Adam at LIC motorsports, Raffi at Full Race motorsports, Robert Fuller at Robispec, Mark at MooreSport Inc, Mike Warfield at GST Motorsports, TH Motorsports, Topspeed Motorsports, Tony at Turn in Concepts, and boostjunkie of nasioc. All these people took extra time out of their busy schedules to help develop a proper parts and development plan to meet my performance goals, both immediately as well as allowing me to add on and not have to replace parts for my future goals. Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my endless stream of questions, answering the effects of each part selection toasted my end goals, and putting other products/business projects on hold to take the time to help me reach my goals. The end result of this project and it's capabilities will be a result of the knowledge and firsthand experiences these people took the time to pass on to me. Thank you |
First Comes the teardown. Due to the power goals and parts, much of the chassis and oem components must be removed. Here is a picture of the OEM engine Bay, this is the last time most of these components will be in here.
[URL="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/195/wrxpic1.jpg/"][IMG]http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL="http://imageshack.us"]ImageShack.us[/URL]' [URL="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/12/wrxpic2.jpg/"][IMG]http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL="http://imageshack.us"]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Off come the OEM sideskirts, still deciding between some OEM STI sideskirts or a set of newer wrx sideskirts painted WRB to match the car. Still undecided, fortunately with a build of this magnitude I will have plenty of time to keep an eye out and decide. I know I want an oem subaru sideskirt, if anyone has pictures that look particularly functional go ahead and post a pic with year and model. Nothing aftermarket though, I would rather spend the budget somewhere other than sideskirts.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/wrxpic4.jpg/][IMG]http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/7017/wrxpic4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] And off comes the front bumper and grill. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/440/wrxpic6.jpg/][IMG]http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/4825/wrxpic6.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Test fitting the AMS Front Bumper Beam. This is a gorgeous part and bolts into the oem location, drops 20.5 pounds off the extreme nose of a front heavy car. Made of steel I love this part. A little bummed because while it fits perfectly, I now need to figure out a way to mount the bumper to the ams crash beam. The beastly OEM bumper beam has holes for the clips used to help postion the bumper and grill. Hope I can figure out a solution that will work for a daily driver, because I want to do everything I can to lighten the nose of this car up to aid in handling. We'll see what secrets LIC motorsports and Top Speed can figure out. I will probably take this as a chance to upgrade and make the bumper quick release with dzus fasteners. Worse case scenario it'll be time for a jdm bumper beam. Lets hope not. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/wrxpic7.jpg/][IMG]http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/1251/wrxpic7.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Out comes the rear interior for suspension removal. Still deciding on whether to remove all the oem sound deadening. Need to find a paint that will prevent rusting for the life of the car, since there is no paint under the rubberized sound deadening. Going to swing by the paint shop tomorrow and ask for recommendations. Maybe POR-15? Anyone with experiences let me know.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/wrxpic9.jpg/][IMG]http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/2299/wrxpic9.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] picture of rear H&R coilover with Ground Control Spherical camber plate and Whiteline Rear Strut Tower Brace. Will be swapping the Whiteline piece out for a X-Brace from TIC. Thanks TIC for bringing the part back, and the endless customer support answering my insane amount of questions to get finalize the part list to achieve my power, chassis, and suspension goals both on the road and track. Anyone interested in a Whiteline Rear Strut Tower Brace in good condition shoot me a pm. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/wrxpic10.jpg/][IMG]http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/3310/wrxpic10.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Pic of the rear suspension setup. Looking forward to replacing all the gushy rubber with spherical bearings, and nice strong lightweight aluminum suspension links. I absolutely loved the change links and sphericals did to my 240sx, I love the crisp and direct feeling of non compliant bushings. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/528/wrxpic11.jpg/][IMG]http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/8254/wrxpic11.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Coilover dropped out of the way [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/155/wrxpic12.jpg/][IMG]http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/3159/wrxpic12.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Front Coilovers dropped, brakes removed and awaiting gorgeous Stoptech 4 pot calipers and lightweight 2 piece rotors. Can't wait for the improved brake performance, as the oem brakes truly leave a lot to be desired.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/267/wrxpic13.jpg/][IMG]http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/6607/wrxpic13.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Another view of the old oem rear suspension. Glad to bring some performance to the rear suspension [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/wrxpic14.jpg/][IMG]http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4161/wrxpic14.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Here are some pics of the disassembled dampener assembly, eagerly awaiting a cleaning and regreasing from the dirt of daily driving duties. Even after countless tweaks on my suspension, I still get amazed at the lack of front suspension travel in comparison to the rears.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/193/wrxpic15.jpg/][IMG]http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/6828/wrxpic15.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Close up pictures of my Ground Control Camber Plates. I absolutely love these, great build quality, great design and adjustability, plus the guys at Ground Control went above and beyond with their customer service and knowledge. Custom made to mount properly on my H&R struts. Only thing to be aware of, is Ground Control uses thinner wall Snap on sockets, and my Craftsman socket would not fit to attach the strut assembly. No worries, they're within driving distance and they did a little bit of machine work and now I can fit my socket perfect, just ask if you're on the phone so you don't waste time on your build. Thanks for the amazing product ground control and great customer service.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/wrxpic16.jpg/][IMG]http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/6372/wrxpic16.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] And top view of the rear camber plates by Ground Control. Love them, Can't speak highly enough about this product and the company. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/7/wrxpic17.jpg/][IMG]http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9906/wrxpic17.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Front Body disassembly, making some progress and will give me more room to work. Removing the front fenders in anticipation of install of TIC Front Fender Braces. Removed the fenders so they brace can be welded in to maximize their effect, rather than rely solely on the bolt in method. Thanks for the great product TIC.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/94/wrxpic18.jpg/][IMG]http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/4130/wrxpic18.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Look at those flimsy OEM pieces of noodle. TIC pieces just look and feel stiffer. Excited at the feel this will produce in the car. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/573/wrxpic19.jpg/][IMG]http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/3286/wrxpic19.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Pulling out the trunk in preparation for the X brace.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/401/wrxpic20.jpg/][IMG]http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/8384/wrxpic20.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Loosening the E Brake cables in the cabin, in preparation for pulling the rear hubs. Have to pull the rear hubs to have a spherical trailing arm mount bearing pressed into the hub. This bushing is disgustingly soft in the OEM form. Anyone that has replaced this bushing knows how important it is and how it improves handling and response. If you doubt me, take a jack under the car and jack up onder the point where the trailing arm attaches to the rear hub. You will notice just how high the jack compresses the bushing before the wheel starts moving up. This is undamped suspension travel that is the enemy of response and does not allow your suspension to be utilized to its dull potential. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/842/wrxpic24.jpg/][IMG]http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/4981/wrxpic24.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Driver Side Rear Hub removed without drama. Love it when things go like they're supposed to.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/wrxpic25.jpg/][IMG]http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/9403/wrxpic25.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Passenger Side Hub was an absolute bear to take out. Axle had practically seized to the hub. The universal BFH did nothing to dislodge, had to go purchase a hub puller. Slowly, very slowly, the hub puller was able to seperate these two parts. First hiccup so far in the build, its funny how the simplest things can take a chunk of time. But at least its out and we are making progress. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/37/wrxpic34.jpg/][IMG]http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/968/wrxpic34.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Finally ..... Success and Seperation!!!!
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/821/wrxpic26.jpg/][IMG]http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/1561/wrxpic26.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Look at how the axle came out. Hasn't Subaru heard of lubing these parts to prevent corrosion and seizing. Oh well, can't really complain, this is my first real seizure so far, so its going quite well. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/844/wrxpic37.jpg/][IMG]http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/5527/wrxpic37.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
View of the engine bay prior to removing the downpipe from the turbo
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/wrxpic27.jpg/][IMG]http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9696/wrxpic27.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Dropping the exhaust from the car. Just washed off the APS 3 inch turbo back exhaust that will be going on the car. Can't wait to hear that thing scream campared to the restrictive, quiet, boring oem exhaust. Wish I could have gotten a titanium exhaust for the weight savings, but I'm not entirely sold on the longevity of titanium in a daily driven situation due to fatigue from the drastic heat cycles.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/64/wrxpic32.jpg/][IMG]http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/7761/wrxpic32.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] View of the turbo without the downpipe attached to the back [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/830/wrxpic33.jpg/][IMG]http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/5653/wrxpic33.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
View of the Hotchkis Adjustable front endlinks. These served me well as a daily driven endlink after my Whiteline Endlink failure and seizure. I was not overwhelmed with the longevity of the front endlink, who knows maybe it was a bad set. I know sphericals wear faster, but the set I have on my 240sx continues to go strong with quadruple the mileage. I have talked with Mark at MSI and will be using a set of his adjustable front spherical endlinks for the build. Can not wait for these, they look and sound amazing.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/39/wrxpic38.jpg/][IMG]http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/8292/wrxpic38.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Dropping the OEM Cast Iron exhaust Manifolds, will be replaced with a Swaintech coated and wrapped Perrin Equal Length Header. To use this header on the ej205 you must upgrade to an STI oil pan. I used this as an opportunity to splurge and purchased a Killer Bee aluminum pan, windage tray, and pickup. Killer Bee is another amazing vendor, took tons of time to answer my questions and we both agreed for my goals his setup was far superior to others on the market. When the parts arrived, the look and finish of them is amazing. I will post pics shortly, just don't have them with me. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/190/wrxpic39.jpg/][IMG]http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/5290/wrxpic39.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Picture of Front suspension disassembled. Front Ball joint and tie rod seperated and pulled.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/542/wrxpic41.jpg/][IMG]http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/5343/wrxpic41.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] View of the ball joint seat. Will be replacing with a Whiteline Roll Center Correction Kit Extended ball joint and tie rod ends. This car has lived solely in California, and still needds a little clean up work to make it perfect. I don't know how you east coasters work on cars with the salt and snow back there. I am so glad I moved back to California weather. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/846/wrxpic42.jpg/][IMG]http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/3677/wrxpic42.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Rest of hub looks good. I will be replacing all the wheel bearings at this time, good preventative maintenance for this car in anticipation of high g loads from my massive sticky tires.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/846/wrxpic43.jpg/][IMG]http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/2294/wrxpic43.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Picture of disassembled front suspension. Moving forward with disassembly. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/585/wrxpic44.jpg/][IMG]http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/695/wrxpic44.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
With the suspension completely disassembled, it is time tear into the engine bay disassembly. I am completely confident in the suspension arena, but am taking my time and marking everything in the engine bay to aid in reassembly. As I work full time and working on this out of my spare time, it can take a while before reassembly, and don't want to forget anything. Here is a final view with just the OEM TMIC removed.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/23/wrxpic46.jpg/][IMG]http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/9673/wrxpic46.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Removing the OEM Turbo for a bigger, more aggressive unit. After much consultation with LIC Motorsports and Full Race I have decided to go with a Garrett GTX 3071 turbo for my horsepower goals. I really hope my transmission holds up until I can purchase a six speed and then I can take advantage of the diffs and stronger gears. I must say, for the amount of miles my car has the turbo looks amazing, practically zero oil, no shaft play, the oem unit sure is durable. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/wrxpic47.jpg/][IMG]http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8271/wrxpic47.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
And the empty space waiting to be filled with a massive Garrett GTX 3071. I sure hope I didn't go too big, and that the superior aerodynamics and efficiency of the garret chra and ball bearing construction will keep me happy with its throttle response. I will be doing a few other things to attempt to minimize the lag and maximize my boost onset and throttle response. We will see, if its too laggy I guess I will have to upgrade to a 2.5 block when I do the transmission.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/wrxpic48.jpg/][IMG]http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/6342/wrxpic48.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Removal of turbo system as well as radiator. All hoses numbered to tagged to aid in reassembly.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/259/wrxpic51.jpg/][IMG]http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/1103/wrxpic51.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Next is the removal of the intake manifold. I decided to remove the intake manifold, fuel rails, and tgv's as one piece, then disassemble on the bench. In its place will go APS TGV Deletes as well as an Aeromotive fuel system and Perrin 3 inch silicone inlet. Quite a few hoses and connectors to unhook, take your time and tag to aid in reassembly. I must say the engine bay is looking awfully pretty with everything removed and just the bare engine remaining. I am fighting the urge to throw pistons, headgaskets, and head studs on the ej205 even though I know it would be better invested in an ej257. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/607/wrxpic53.jpg/][IMG]http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/1364/wrxpic53.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/wrxpic54.jpg/][IMG]http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3061/wrxpic54.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
The pile of parts has finally reached the point I can begin reassembly. Huge thanks to Adam at LIC Motorsports for taking the time to discuss my project goals and figuring out a parts list that would meet my current goals, and support future build progress with minimal need for repurchasing parts. I am a firm believer in buying the correct parts the first time, huge thanks to Adam for taking the time to come up with a parts list for a car that I am doing all the work on (i.e. they won't be able to work on it).
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/208/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] APS TGV Deletes- Next step going to have to port match these to the intake manifold and cylinder head. Wish APS was still available here in the U.S. They make some high quality, functional, affordable parts. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/wrxpic3.jpg/][IMG]http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/5736/wrxpic3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/wrxpic4.jpg/][IMG]http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/7017/wrxpic4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Relied heavily on advice from both LIC Motorsports and Full Race Motorsports. Many thanks to both Noah and Raffi for the time they took to come up with a system of parts to meet my track and tarmac goals.
Tial BOV- This unit reeks of quality. Amazing unit [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/710/wrxpic5.jpg/][IMG]http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/4774/wrxpic5.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] And my centerpoint for power- an ATP GTX 3071 stock location turbocharger. I'm really excited with this turbo, due to the efficiency of the garrett dual ball bearing design and aerodynamics, is as big of a turbo as you can run while still having good throttle response and lag, while still making around 325 whp on a low reading dyno, hopefully higher. Turbo exhaust housing is Ceramic coating to aid in spool and reduce underhood temperatures. At the conclusion of this build after a protune I will post up pictures of the dyno graph for those that are interested or considering this turbo. Thank you raffi at full race motorsports. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/607/wrxpic6.jpg/][IMG]http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/4825/wrxpic6.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/wrxpic8.jpg/][IMG]http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/9428/wrxpic8.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/wrxpic9.jpg/][IMG]http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/2299/wrxpic9.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
And some ACT goodness to help harness all this power
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/wrxpic10.jpg/][IMG]http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/3310/wrxpic10.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Top quality turboback 3" exhaust system by APS. Looking forward to experiencing the performance that APS brings to the table with their top quality parts.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/401/wrxpic11.jpg/][IMG]http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/8254/wrxpic11.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Perrin Equal Length Header and APS Up-Pipe. Header, Up-Pipe, and Downpipe all received Swaintech White Lightning Ceramic coating to keep as much enthalpy in the exhaust gas as possible as well as control underhood temperatures. These parts will also be wrapped in DEI Titanium Exhaust wrap to maximize the effects, having to do everything possible to spool up this monster of a turbo with my measly lil 2 liter. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/443/wrxpic15n.jpg/][IMG]http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/1853/wrxpic15n.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/41/wrxpic14.jpg/][IMG]http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4161/wrxpic14.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Everyone who has driven the wrx in anger on track or even aggressively on the street knows how woefully inadequate the oem brake package is at stock power levels. With my drastically upgraded suspension and power levels, it would be foolish not to give stoptech a call and throw on a balanced big brake kit. I am looking forward to these, combined with stainless lines all around, stoptech pads front and rear, and motul fluid, to really throw me forward in my seat when I need the whoa pedal.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/802/wrxpic16.jpg/][IMG]http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/6372/wrxpic16.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/824/wrxpic17.jpg/][IMG]http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/9906/wrxpic17.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
While I have the hubs off it is time to do some preventative maintenance in anticipation of the increased loads I will be putting the car through on and off track. Front and rear hubs received brand new wheel bearings courtesy of Subaru, and the soft, squishy OEM rear trailing link hub bushing was replaced with a spherical bearing for increased response. Anyone who wonders about this modification should slide a jack under their hub and start jacking up, the jack will move almost 3/4 of an inch before it moves the hub itself, squishy bushings are the enemy of response.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/163/wrxpic18.jpg/][IMG]http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4130/wrxpic18.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/403/wrxpic20.jpg/][IMG]http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/8384/wrxpic20.th.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Some Love Packages from the good guys over at LIC Motorsports. Excellent shop, very knowledgeable group of guys that will take the time to sit down and discuss the goals of your project and come up with a list of parts that will meet you goals. And if you ever can't do the work yourself on the car these guys are as good as they come. Can't say enough good things about Noah and Adam at LIC.
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Brand New OEM STI aluminum front control arm. I had the extended ball joints fron the Whiteline Roll Center Correction kit pressed in, as well as a set of spherical bearings for the forward bushing on the control arm. Purchased these high quality sealed, spherical bearings from Robert Fuller at Robispec. The control arm will be outfitted with the Whiteline ALK (Race version) pictured on the previous page when installed. Robispec has an amazing array of parts for the Subaru Market, much more than is on his website. Another mainstay of the industry that took time out of his busy day to not only get me set up with the correct setup, but also discussed rim sizes and offsets to maximize my contact patch with the least effect on my scrub radius. Can't say enough about Robert Fuller over at Robispec, thank you very much for both the parts and ideas.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/10/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/193/wrxpic3.jpg/][IMG]http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/5736/wrxpic3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/337/wrxpic4.jpg/][IMG]http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/7017/wrxpic4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Brand New OEM STI aluminum front control arm. I had the extended ball joints fron the Whiteline Roll Center Correction kit pressed in, as well as a set of spherical bearings for the forward bushing on the control arm. Purchased these high quality sealed, spherical bearings from Robert Fuller at Robispec. The control arm will be outfitted with the Whiteline ALK (Race version) pictured on the previous page when installed. Robispec has an amazing array of parts for the Subaru Market, much more than is on his website. Another mainstay of the industry that took time out of his busy day to not only get me set up with the correct setup, but also discussed rim sizes and offsets to maximize my contact patch with the least effect on my scrub radius. Can't say enough about Robert Fuller over at Robispec, thank you very much for both the parts and ideas.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/10/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/193/wrxpic3.jpg/][IMG]http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/5736/wrxpic3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/337/wrxpic4.jpg/][IMG]http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/7017/wrxpic4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Progress has slowed this week, doing a ton of odds and ends on the car in preparation for the build. Waiting on some special order left hand threaded nuts to arrive for my Poltec Lateral Links, as I feel both ends should use this attachment method. Waiting on my rear differential bushing to arrive from TIC then the rear end should be just about done, will post pics up in the next day or two, starting to look pretty sweet with all the aluminum links instead of heavy old stamped steal and soft rubber bushings. Here is where I am at with the motor, ACT Prolite flywheel and clutch are installed, just arranging a time that works with a friend of mine to give me a hand lifting the old 5 speed back into position. Thought about doing it myself like with my 240sx, but didn't want to take the chance on bending the pressure plate. Here is where we sit, its a shame to hide that flywheel and clutch, both would like great as a wall decoration in the garage.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/207/actproliteflywheel.jpg/][IMG]http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/8816/actproliteflywheel.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/404/actclutch.jpg/][IMG]http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1435/actclutch.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Well I've been lagging a bit, life came along and I haven't had the time to tear into the car. Had some final background interviews for hopefully my soon to be career, which will give me a nice raise in salary for fun stuff, like an upcoming 6 speed swap. Good news teardown of the car is mostly complete, now comes reassembly. It's been a bear trying to arrange the time between work, interviews, and my friends schedules to get an extra set of hands over here to help guide my tranny back in so the front end can be reassembled. So to stay busy I've begun reassembly of the rear end of the car. Dropped the Rear Diff mustache bar to install TIC Race Rear Diff Bushings.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/402/wrxpic3.jpg/][IMG]http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/5736/wrxpic3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] And here is a picture of the mustache bar. This is the last time you will see this flexy rubber back here. If you haven't replaced these bushings yet, I highly recommend the TIC bushings. Easy to replace, and considerably stiffer than the OEM Subary rubber. I was shocked at how much I was able to deflect these with just my bare hands, note the open voids in the bushing making it even easier. I haven't had a chance to press out the oem bushing, so this is where it sits now, awaiting assembly. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/804/wrxpic4.jpg/][IMG]http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/7017/wrxpic4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Hubs, Spindles, Poltec lateral links, Poltec Adjustable Rear Endlink, Cusco Trailing Arm, and H&R Coilovers all reinstalled. That means in my rear end all rubber has been removed, spherical bearings replacing all suspension links to the chassis and hubs, and Whiteline Polyurethane Rear Diff Bushings for where the subframe connects to the chassis, and TIC Rear Diff Race Bushings to solidify the mount of the diff itself. I'm very excited to feel how all this work has tightened the feel of the rear end of the car. Strength, Durability, and the lack of flexibility all work together to make sure all motion is transferred through the dampener, making the suspension work more effeciently as well as increasing confidence and predictability at the limit of adhesion.
Pardon the picture quality, it was getting late but was trying to get a little bit of an update in. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/193/wrxpic1.jpg/][IMG]http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Another view showing the suspension links [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/100/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
I'm a little concerned with the fitment of the cusco trailing arm to the hub. Of course it is just finger tight, but I really don't think its supposed to be that loose. I'm going to send this pic to the vendor, see if I got pulled the correct one, hoping it will be a simple fix like that.
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Another love package of parts from LIC Motorsports. I have chosen to use the Greddy Infometer Touch as my gauge solution for the car. I really wanted to go with an AIM digital dash display, but it wasn't in the budget at this point. I have heard great things about this unit, and relied heavily on the recommendation from Adam and Noah at LIC. Adjustable user settings, audio and visual warnings whenever the threshold has been exceeded, and with the add on sensors, the ability to monitor oil pressure, oil temperature, water temperature, water pressure, boost pressure, etc. While you could probably get by without these gauges on merely a street driven car, if you plan on pushing the limits of the ej205 at the track, it is essential to have an easy to read and accurate gauge setup. The audible warning feature is essential IMHO, as it allows you to be aware if a threshold has been exceeded without taking your eyes off the track. To try to get around the 5 speeds inherent understeer characteristics (front heavy/front engine car with the stock open front diff) I will be using a multitude of parts to try and convince the car to rotate in a controllable manner. I will be using a 27mm adjustable whiteline rear swaybar, as I prefer to use stiff swaybars to limit body roll and convince the car to rotate and use softer springs to enable the suspension is pliant enough to absorb the bumps of tarmac street canyon runs. The rest of the parts are pretty basic and continues with the theme of tying down the drivetrain to increase response, predictability, and confidence when driving at the limits of adhesion.
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Well, when I see a good idea implemented intelligently, I incorporate it into my build. In an effort to increase my cooling systems effectiveness, I will be venting my engine bay with these Run Cool Hood Louvers. Originally got the idea from Turn In Concepts, these will suck air that has already been used to cool the various heat exchangers out of the engine bay, lowering its pressure, which increases the pressure differential between the engine bay and the front of the heat exchangers, which will allow more air to flow through and cool the radiator. Combined with my Koyo high capacity radiator, Crawford water pump, radiator ducting, and higher pressure radiator cap, should drastically increase my cooling systems effectiveness. Here is a perfect example of how a number of small fixes almost always is better than one big fix, and how the ultimate in fixes is when you combine the big fix with a number of smaller fixes. As a side benefit, combined with some other front end aerodynamic modifications, should help streamline my car and improve the overall vehicle aerodynamics. I couldn't justify spending the money on a vented carbon hood to lose a minimal of weight over the nose of the car since the stock aluminum hood is very light, and liked how these looked on the turn in concepts car. Thanks for the idea TIC.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/718/wrxpic1.jpg/][IMG]http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Hopefully my front end will look similar to this: [IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-omJ_skCXdgE/S1n262t2t_I/AAAAAAAAAEQ/aGCsHIxiN88/s720/19396652-_25H0589%25252Bcopy.JPG[/IMG] |
Time for some progress to be made on the car instead of just dumping $$$ into piles of parts on the ground. Installed TIC Rear Differential Bushing Race version and was blown away by the ease of the install. The OEM bushings are disgustingly soft, while these new ones are extremeley rigid with no play from hand squeezing- just what I wanted. These will prove essential to direct feedback and throttle inputs. As is well known with TIC products- very knowledgeable, professional, takes the time to answer questions about future goals, speedy delivery, and ultimately a well designed/engineered/thought out product that fixes and upgrades the oem part but has oem type quality control. The product fits like a dream, and if more products had the TIC attention to detail there would be a LOT less botched or frustrated installs. Anybody in the market for Subaru parts should definitely consider this shop.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/842/wrxpic1.jpg/][IMG]http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] Rear Diff bushings installed [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/wrxpic3.jpg/][IMG]http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5736/wrxpic3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
In an effort to further strengthen chassis rigidity I have included TIC fender cowl braces in my build. These replace the stock flimsy oem ones (although kudos to subaru for even triangulating the fender with a brace, many other imports don't even take that step), but these are nice and beefy and rigid in comparison to the stock ones which I can flex with my bare hands. To further strengthen this connection, in the future I will be welding these braces in place to further strengthen the chassis. Here is the original install if no other modifications are performed.
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I was not happy with the OEM harness routing in the fender well so decided to modify the wiring path some for improved protection with my reduced ride heaight and hard driving style. The last thing I wanted to do was have my rapidly spinning tire shred my wiring harness at full bump, so I rerouted the wiring harness on the side of the fender cowl, which should tuck it between the fender and frame upon reassembly. All new drilled holes were hit with a quick dose of spray paint to eliminate any rust issues down the road. If all goes as planned on reassembly, this should be a safer and more robust setup down the road. Hopefully this will fit under the fenders upon reassembly without issue. I did a similar modification to my 240sx with good results and little problems, so I hope to continue the trend here.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/710/wrxpic3.jpg/][IMG]http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/5736/wrxpic3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] And of course the other side [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/839/wrxpic4.jpg/][IMG]http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/7017/wrxpic4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Some more progress made today. Whiteline rear 27mm swaybar installed. Weird little quirk about the install that I could not find much about online in the forums, concerns the swaybar d mounts. The Whiteline bar, while 27mm in the center narrows down to 24mm on the side to mount to the chassis. I am using the upgraded sway bar mount, as with any increased rear swaybar under aggressive driving could result in failure of the oem mounts. The 27mm bar comes with mounts with a ridge on them, these turned out incompatible with the upgraded swaybar mount, not correctly mounting and dislocating portions of the bushings. So instead of shaving these down, I recommend just using a set of 24mm swaybar mounts, which I had available from my previous swaybar. Fits the swaybar perfectly and fits the mount as good as with the previous bar. I have never been overwhelmed with the fitment of the mounts though, I have tried the trick of flipping them backwards, and this is the closest to oem level of fitment, although it is stil not entirely up to my oem standards.
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Started final reassembly of the rear end of the car. Tighten up all the hand tight bolts to final torque spec. Spherical endlinks all bolted up and torques down.
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Whiteline Rear Subframe Lockdown dolts installed. Hopefully my rear suspension will be suffeciently rigid for hardcore performance use, if not I will be dropping the subframe and paying a local fabricator to seam weld the rear subframe, just don't have it in the budget at this time. I really wish I could weld, the majority of the chassis would have been seam welded, and especially the front crossmember as well as the rear subframe. Oh well, gives me another project in the future.
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Cusco trailing arms installed and torqued to spec. Fitment turned out to be a non issue, and my concerns unfounded. The bracket collapses down under the torque and fits the hub perfects. Not sure if it is because of my other adjustable suspension arms being made from either steel or chromoly and not flexing down as far a aluminum or what, but these arms seem to fit perfectly, and knowing their track record in a competitive race environment, seems cusco knows more than me about suspension arm construction.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/860/wrxpic5.jpg/][IMG]http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/4774/wrxpic5.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/337/wrxpic6.jpg/][IMG]http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4825/wrxpic6.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
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Well, finally arranged time with crazy work schedules and got my transmission reinstalled and mated to the engine. Very excited about this, will allow me to start reinstalling components of the front suspension. Was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to mate the transmission back up to the engine. With the pitch stop removed you can get a surprising amount of play, and by jacking the front of the engine you can tilt it downward in the back, giving you much more working room to wiggle the transmission in. With two people, it was very easy to mate the two together. On some makes of cars reinstalling the transmission can be an absolute bear, so kudos Subaru, thanks for making it a relatively easy install.
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Kartboy rear shifter bushing and group N tranny mount getting ready to join the kartboy front shifter bushing currently installed on the car. Was pleasantly surprised by the difference in shift feel the forward shifter bushing made in the drivetrain. Of course, I probably should have installed the rear bushing before installing the transmission, but it won't be difficult to install with everything else installed. For those that haven't felt the group n tranny mount bushing already in person, this thing is beastly stiff. I wish I had a before and after comparison isolating this part. I was surprised at the feel of the forward shifter bushing, I can only imagine the effect the difference the tranny mount will do.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/23/wrxpic1.jpg/][IMG]http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Can you say my tranny mount was due for replacement
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Group N Tranny mount successfully installed. Still need to install a couple more parts before this area can be torqued down to proper spec.
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My newest addition to the parts pile, a brand new, unused Racetech RT4009HR seat. This seat is absolutely amazing. A big thank you to boost junkie for selling me his bnib seat to go in my project. If you haven't tried a racetech seat, I highly suggest you do so if you are looking into upgrading to true racing buckets. A neighbor had one of these as well as the a regular RT4000 bucket seat in his spec bmw and I was blown away at the quality and comfort compared to the sparcos I had sat in. This seat is absolutely top notch, fits me perfectly, holds me very securely but comfortably. I am blown away and very excited to get this into my car. Thing is super light, only weighing approximately 20 pounds, and will allow me to lower my seating position in the car when moutned correctly. As you can tell, I am very excited with this purchase, a part like this truely belongs in projects with goals a lot bigger than my humble aspirations, but you can never make safety too high of a priority. Once again, big thank you to boost junkie for the seat as well as advice on parts selection for this little project.
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Here's another view of this seat, very proud to be running this in my vehicle.
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Shot of the backat, and most importantly, the all important FIA certification.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/444/wrxpic3.jpg/][IMG]http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/5736/wrxpic3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/wrxpic4w.jpg/][IMG]http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/356/wrxpic4w.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Picture comparing the oem rear shifter bushing to my kartboy rear shifter bushing. The Kartboy bushing is obviously a higher quality, much more robust and rigid. With this my entire driveline will be locked down and flexible rubber removed and replaced with either spherical bearings or polyurethane. A lot of people shrug these little parts off as they can add up in price (especially high quality spherical bearings) but in my experience they are essential to a functional end product. On my 240sx I replaced all bushings to spherical before upgrading to a mid level set of coilovers and was astonished at the capabilities of that car. These bushings are what allows you to gain tenths both on the track and skidpad, and give you the confidence to push the car to the limits of adhesion. The amount of confidence non-compliant bushings give in driver confidence is astounding, once you take the plunge you will be astonished how vague cars without spherical bearings feel.
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It's funny how sometimes the simplest tasks can suck up the time. So, I foolishly hadn't looked at where the Kartboy rear shifter bushing was located and assumed it was on the tranny for some reason. So I reinstalled and torqued to spec the driveshaft and driveshaft shield, then saw I had made my life more difficult by partially obstructing the install of the bushing. So, since everybody else can install the bushing without dropping the driveshaft, and I am at least decent with my mechanical skills, I figured I could at least replace two bolts for the bushing since everyone else was able to. No dice, I could not get the bolts to cooperate, got frustrated and tried to force it, and ended up stripping the threaded nut. Grrrrrrr!!!! So, in the end had to drop the driveshaft again, go to the hardware store and get a tap, retap the threads, and then with all this extra room to work, of course the bushing bolted right in. Frustrating, a very simple install took up a chunk of time, but it is correctly bolted in and another project is crossed off the list. Gotta laugh that it took that long for me to replace a part that is literally two bolts.
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Shot towards the front of the car. Tranny is now solidly mounted and torqued to spec. All bushings are replaced in the drivetrain and suspension with either spherical bearings or hard polyurethane, to limit unwanted and undamped movement. I can not recommend highly enough the improtance and consistency of solidifying your suspension and drivetrain in driver confidence and predictability at the limit.
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Cobb Stainless Steel Rear Brake Lines installed. The front Stoptech BBK will get a set of new braided brake lines by stoptech, but was able to use my Cobb Lines on the rear. Very much like the quality of Cobb's brake lines, has a lining around the stainless braiding to cut down on unnecessary wear on surrounding components. The brake setup on this car will be a Stoptech BBK up front, OEM sliding wrx rear calipers in rear, stainless lines all around, and stoptech street/track pads at all four corners. I will see how these work, if they do not meet my requirements/expectations I will switch to Performanc efriction dual purpose pads for the street.
Rear end of the car is almost completely reassembled, all that is left is reassembling the parking brake assembly, throwing on the rotor, and bolting on the caliper, then bleeding the brakes. Down the road, I will be upgrading to a set of OEM STI rear Brembos, and when I wear out my current rotors will upgrade my front brake mount and 2 piece discs to 355mm brake setup up front. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/252/wrxpic1.jpg/][IMG]http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Next project on the to do list, upgrading to brand new STI aluminum control arms and Whiteline Motorsport ALK. Must say, in all my previous research I could not find anyone who made a tubular control arm for the wrx, was looking for one similar to the products SPL makes for the S13. Could not find anyone, anyone, who made a reasonably priced product. After getting these arms, I later found out about MSI. If I hadn't already purchased these arms and the Whiteline ALK, I would have definitely spent a little extra and got MSI's tubular front control arm compatible with the oem ball joint (and subsequently whiteline extended ball joint) and the whiteline motorsport adjustable alk. I feel the quality and performanc eadvantages of these products would more than justify the slight increase in price. This is definitely on my next round of upgrades, I just couldn't justify it at this point in time. For those who are considering this upgrade, you would be remiss to not at least price out the parts from MSI, the further reduction of unsprung weight, rigidity, longevity, and most importantly performance capabilities.
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Sti aluminum control arms mounted, equipped with Whiteline Motorsport ALK and Robispec forward control arm spherical bearing. These parts should go quite a ways toward the overall handling of the vehicle. Whiteline ALK provides mor static and dynamic caster, which when combined with the Ground Control Camber/Caster Plates, should give me significantly more caster than stock. The spherical bearing and motorsport grade polyurethane will help the dynamic allignment of the car, meaning significantly less deflection of components, which leads to compromised suspension geometry, when the car is pushed hard. I am very excited to feel the overall impacts of this series of modifications to the front suspension. The benefits are multifaceted, more caster, reduces the need for heavy amounts of static negative camber, increased stiffness of the alloy arms, reduced unsprung weight, which will help offset the inscreased weight of the 18x9.5 Rota DPT rims I will be running. I am really looking forward to the spherical bearing in the front control arm, I have preached it multiple times throughout this thread, but until you have driven a car with spherical bearings in anger you have no idea what you are missing. Once you have you will be addicted to the loveable, crisp, immediate fele of non compliant suspension and chassis bushings. Of course I did a sort of middle ground, as some of my bushings are polyurethane instead of spherical, as they were all I was aware was available at the time, but regardless, it is farther than I see the majority of subarus go and feel the benefits are well worth it. Only time and results will tell the true story.
Obviously, still need to attach the longer whiteline outer tie rods, but here is the control arm attached. Excited to feel this effect, as it was significantly harder to reattach the front control arm with the reduced deflection of the ALK and spherical bearing. Ended up having to use a lever (i.e. large screwdriver) between the forward part of the arm and mount to leverage the control arm into position. It is this lack of play theat will produce significant increases in control, predictability, and immediacy of suspension response when driven aggressively. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/wrxpic1.jpg/][IMG]http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Got to the house today to do a little work on the car and found these on the doorstep. Thank you Mark at MSI, these pieces look absolutely fabulous. I am a big believer in buy the correct part for your needs, use, and goals the first time, and this is a perfect example. Like a few of the other vendors I have pointed out during this thread, I would like to thank Mark for taking time out of his busy day to come up with a setup to meet my needs. Like I told Mark in my email to him, I truly feel the parts MSI produces are a step beyond what is traditionally offered by the aftermarket. With talking to him I have no doubt that the bearings used are a step above what other brands are using in their products, at very reasonable prices for the serious enthusiast. Besides the high quality motorsport bearings, aluminum spacers to shed weight and aid response, etc. High quality parts, I am looking forward to investing in their track proven rear subframe for my next level of modifications. It may sound like I am making a big deal about a small part (endlinks) but you have no idea how frustrating replacing expensive aftermarket parts can be because of cheap spherical bearings that wear out rapidly. Getting parts of this quality and capabilities put a big smile on my face, plus I am so happy there is a company that is making proper suspension geometry a priority.
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Picture of the Aeromotive complete fuel system I will be running. This includes an fittings as well as an aeromtove fpr. The reliability of fluid transfer hoses and connections can not be overstated, and an fittings when used correctly are as reliable as it gets. Plus, with my 850cc injectors and the fueling requirements of my turbo, it would be foolish to cut corners and not address the factory fuel system. These rails will be running in parrallel instead of the factory routing, to equalize the distribution of fuel amongst cylinders in high output situations. I am still debating if it is worth the expense at this time to upgrade the restrictive factory fuel supply lines to an -8 stainless line from the fuel tank to the engine bay. We will see if that gets checked off the list for this current buildup, or put off until the next round. Still need to get some sheathing to slide over the stainless lines to reduce wear of other components in the engine bay.
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Closeup of the Aeromotive fuel rails. Great part about the fuel system, like so many other parts in this build, is when I upgrade to a built 2.5 block it will swap right over. Fueling systems on high output turbo cars driven on track should not skimp on the fuel system, as lean conditions can turn expensive quickly. These parts should give me a little bit of confidence during my tuning session and track days.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/835/wrxpic3.jpg/][IMG]http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/5736/wrxpic3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/407/wrxpic4.jpg/][IMG]http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7017/wrxpic4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
When pushing the amount of fuel needed to create the power this little build is capable of, it is essential to upgrade the fuel pump. Most people go with Walbros, but I went another direction for a number of reasons. I am not over awed with Walbros reliability, plus I don't like how you need to keep the tank filled to prevent burning out the bushings. Did you know Walbros don't even use ball bearings, but use bronze bushes. These bushes rely heavily on the tank of gas to cool and stay lubricated. Just not the right choice for me, when for a little more you can get the Aeromotive Stealth or Bosch 044. While reading the msi build thread I learned about Fine Line Imports located near me in Santa Rosa. I called them initially to request their drop in Bosch 044 fuel pump kit, but they recommended I use the Aeromotive drop in pump instead, saving me a couple dollars as well as getting something that will perform perfectly for the task at hand. With the affordability of these high flowing fuel pumps I do not understand why people still bother with Walbros. I can not believe they do not use ball bearings.
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Had to dissassemble the front coilovers to grease the wear points on my H&R coilovers. Ground Control warned me when I got these that by getting the race version and not the polyurethane street version that they would be slightly noisier, which is not at all outrageous in NVH and you are rewarded with a vast increase in cornering power and dynamic allignment consistency. In an effort to quiet them down I tore the coilovers apart and greased the mating surfaces, we will see if this helps. If it is the same no biggie, as it is not outrageous and the benefits definitely far outweigh the nvh penalty. These camber/caster plates have so many functional features, independent caster adjustability, top mount to preserve compression travel, a thrust bearing that supports the weight of the car to prolong the life of the spherical needle bearing in the top mount itself, etc. These are an amazingly designed piece of work, and like many parts slightly more than their competitors products, but offering vastly more performance potential for the slight increase in cost. I can't stress it enough, save up and buy the right part once. It is actually cheaper down the road since the inferior part will nto work as planned and fail, and you will have to replace it early as well as other part sthat fail due to the other part failing. I've been saving a long time for this build, but the results will far surpass those ebay builds out there using chinese knock off parts.
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H&R coilovers correctly reassembled, greased, and ride height measured and dialed in ready for cornerbalancing. Every time I look at the front suspension of the wrx I long for more suspension travel, I will have to spend some time playing with the ride height of the new setup to ensure I am not bottoming out on compression under aggressive driving. You can buy all the expensive parts in the world, but if you do not show attention to detail and spend time dialing in a setup your results will always be inferior. Anyone can have a bolt on queen (which is all my build basically is) but where the overall results and driving behavior come from is the sum of the total package and how you can make the parts complement each other.
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Top portion of the Ground Control Camber/Caster plates installed finger tight for mock up during reassembly. I love the design of these plates, like being top mounted to preserve valuable wheel travel before bottoming out, high quality bearings, a thrust bearing to hold up the weight of the car so as to reduce stree on the pillowball upper strut mount used to locate the strut. High quality parts make for high quality results.
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Coilover loosely installed for mock up and test fitment. Pleasantly surprised at the angle of the lower control arm, the Whiteline Extended Ball Joint dropped the lower control arm pivot significantly, which will do wonders for my roll center and suspension geometry. Still need to graph out the camber curve and roll couple, but its at least getting the lower control arm in the ball park for my suspension ride height. Still needs to be fine tuned once everythings put back together, but must say I am pleasantly surprised. And since I did have a few gripes about whiteline in my other post, this kit and most of their products have fit beautifully. Makes me wonder why they designed the few parts with fitment issues the way they did. H&R coilovers, Ground Control Camber/Caster plates, Whiteline ALK, and STI Aluminum lower control arms installed. Coilovers and mounts are installed just finger tight for the time being as this is still a mock up, as obviously the coilover needs to be unmounted to install the axles, which I just got the pins for (thanks flatirons tuning). Like I said at the top, very pleasantly surprised at the preliminary positioning of the lower control arm with the Whiteline extended ball joint. Still needs some fine tuning, a little finess, but definitely progress in the right direction. I love suspension work, so easy to make significant and measurable gains in lap times, chassis balance, predictability, confidence, etc.
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Here's a follow up picture concerning the whiteline roll center correction kit. A few posts back I was raving up about how impressed I was with the fitment of the kit, and when I test fitted my coilovers I was very happy with the amount of angle it took off my lower control arm. Of course right now this is just ball park, as obviously the suspension is at full droop since the car is on jackstands. Here is a direct comparison though, of the oem tie rod end and the whiteline tie rod end. This is a similar drop as the ball joint, as they need to keep similar angles for the most benefits. After all the fitment, durability, and quality control problems 6gun racing had with their kit, if you are keeping the standard wrx or sti control arms and ball joint setup (and not upgrading to an msi lower control arm setup or LIC Motorsports adjustable hubs) I strongly feel the whiteline roll center kit is the best solution for your front end suspension geometry. Talked to many shops, no one seems to have had a problem with the Whiteline RollC enter Kit. Anyways, thought this would give you guys a better shot to see what I was raving about.
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Here is the newest absolutely amazing, top notch engineered, functional piece of full win to grace my build. Another piece that belongs on a built motor beast, and is slumming it on my internally stock ej205. Killer Bee's amazing oil pan combination. I talked extensively to Chris at Killer Bee, as well as other tuners, and was torn between the other pans on the market. For the money of a new oil pan setup, I wanted to make sure I got the best, most effective end product. Killer Bee's oil pan setup comes with a lifetime warranty, beefed up oil pan pickup, no moving baffles (which can stick open with prolonged usage) and windage tray. The enlarged sump holds more oil, so it provides additional heat capacity as well as improved lubrication by its more effective design. Their baffle setup is superior on hard driven cars, where oil pooling in the heads is a serious issue. Here is an exerpt from one of the many emails between myself and Chris describing the advantages of his setup, plus his setup is compatable with my headers.
"[I]The Subaru engine will pool oil in the outside head during cornering. Think of a cornering load the same as tipping your engine. The oil pools in the head facing the outside of the corner (or the head that's tipped downward on an engine stand/dyno). Under severe cornering, yes a flat baffle will help oil from sloshing out of the pan, BUT oil flowing from the other head can go across this baffle instead of into the bottom of the sump. Horizontal baffles also increase the amount of oil that can pool in each head before flowing back into the bottom of the sump. Our replacement oil Baffle Windage tray and our sump's baffle are designed to direct oil downward to the sump wether it's coming from the crank or flowing back from the heads. We see spill-out as much less an issue because the heads pool oil long before oil begins to spill out of the sump. A lot of the currently available baffling and oiling technology for Subarus are assumptions carried over from other makes/models, but just because those concepts work well on a V8, straight-6, etc., doesn't mean they are ideal on our Subaru boxer engines. Don't get me wrong here, some products are better than others and most are better than the factory bits. Our products come from a 'what's the problem, why and test, test, test philosophy'. We run CAD simulations, dyno testing and track testing to verify a design before its release."[/I] [I]Thank you Chris/Killer Bee for the amazing product. Amazing finished product, well thought out design, great ability to communicate with the end customer and take the time to lay out the benefits of your design. Thank you so much for the time you took to get me a finished product perfect for my goals. Highly recommend looking at Killer Bee for your Subaru needs, and very affordable to boot.[/I] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/wrxpic1.jpg/][IMG]http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/201/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Here is the upcoming project, installing the Killer Bee Oil Setup and improving the oiling setup and consistency of the ej205. This improved oiling setup will give me a lot of peace of mind when dialing in my suspension at the track and skidpad. Skidpads can be exceptionally hard on the oiling system, clearly illustrating deficiencies as the oil pools to the outside of the turn lap after lap at the limits of adhession. I chalked this one up to cheaper than a new engine. Very excited about all the benefits this well engineered piece will offer my build.
This is the last time you will see OEM Subaru parts in the oiling system [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/560/wrxpic3.jpg/][IMG]http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/5736/wrxpic3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Here's a view of the bottom side of the oem subaru ej205. All the OEM oiling system is removed, and allows a shot of the crank and rods. I really wish I was doing a built block, but I need to be smart and have fun with the power this setup will produce, and start reinforcing my drivetrain (i.e. 6 speed swap). The handling difference the upgrade diffs and dccd will make in handling will be profound, massive increase in strength, etc. And hopefully it will be in my budget to upgrade to a mechanical OS Giken/Carbonetic/ or Modena mechanical rear limited slip at that time (of course with some of the clutch plates deactivated and ramp up characteristics modified for my level of modification). But that is way, WAY, in the future.
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Killer Bee Oil baffle installed and torqued to spec (something like 7.5 lb/ft of torque). Can't remember off hand, I know I consulted the FSM though. Part fit like a glove, Can't say enough about the quality, ease of fitment, customer service, and engineering in Killer Bee Products.
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Here is a final shot under the oil pan before it gets sealed with 3bond and torqued to spec. All parts fit perfectly,a re high quality, and replace and upgrade over previously found shortcomings and compromises in the factory engineering. That is why you spend the money up front for these high quality parts and buy from reputable dealers, you get technically advanced, well engineered, top shelf parts that fit perfectly. Just what the home mechanic needs. No melted pots and pans from China being used as an intercooler or radiator on my build. Don't need parts to have parts, or to have bling, but instead to improve the performance of a certain aspect of the vehicle. Hopefully, my build continues to look like an excess of function and win.
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Another view of the oiling system. Excited to check another item off the project list, and fully address another weak link in the factory engineering.
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Killer Bee Ultimate Oil setup completely installed and torqued to spec. Used genuine Subaru 3bond to seal the pan, which is the same as fujibond. Increased oil capacity, built in bungs for oil temp, baffled, more durable/reliable, fits my perrin header, etc. All checked off the list. The back bolts can be a pain to get to, wish I had done the oil pan when I had the transmission off and could really twist my engine back. But- this is why you buy high quality products with high quality control, this was no more difficult to put back on than the oem pan. Oil setup checked off the list and we are moving forward. Next comes headers and fuel system.
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Pan is 1/8" thick and flange is 1/4" thick. This thing is amazingly high quality, everything you can want in an aftermarket parts company killer bee provides, excellent customer service, willing to deal with customers and answer all their questions, oem level of fitment, serious r&d and engineering, reliability, excellent pricing, and most importantly a superior product. I was completely ready to spend big bucks on a cosworth oil setup but felt the killer bee product was superior and am glad I went in the direction I did. That is why I included quotes from my emails with Chris, as I truly believe this is a superior product. I think the results and reliability of using name brand components from reputable manufacturers utilizing correct engineering and r&d programs. I think too many builders do not focus on the big picture and lose focus on the integration of the parts selection. It is how the parts work together that make a functional, potent, and enjoyable end product to attack the tarmac with. Hopefully those following this build, and the end performance capabilities of the car after is dialed in will buy name brand products instead of used and worn out second hands parts or even worse, knock off parts that don't even function as good as oem (I.e. eBay tmic, mishimoto radiators etc.). Its an expensive hobby but the results of doing the job properly are always much better than doing it with knock offs. I will take less functional parts over a mile long spec part list of knockoffs that destroy my reliability and work less well than the oem.
I literally can not say enough about my experience with killer bee and Chris. I will definitely use them in the future for any parts I can. Great outfit. Minor Update- just talked with THMotorsports and they will be sending me the correct Aeromotive Fuel System setup and letting me send back the old one. No fuss, no hassle, great customer service and great prices. Looking forward to getting this so I can get the engine re sealed up and running. Also, forgot my camera at the house but just received a lovely aluminum battery mount for my odyssey pc680 battery. I have not yet decided whether I will relocate the battery under the passenger seat or the trunk. I am not sure if the battery will fit under the seat with super low seat rails and mounts that I will be having GST Motorsports fabricate and install. Pics to come soon. |
Newest part acquireed to address my cooling system needs. Grimmspeed 160 degree thermostat.
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Installed my upgraded Grimm Speed 160 Degree thermostat today. In line with completely upgrading my cooling system, this will join a host of other parts to give my wrx increased thermal control and heat rejecting capabilities. All turbo cars run hot, especially when you up the power, and I want my car to be able to be run hard regardless of the weather. Install was very easy, literally took just a few minutes. Just make sure the pop valve is located correctly on top. This will join the crawford high capacity water pump, koyo radiator, upgraded radiator caps and water wetter, ducting, etc. to significantly increase the heat rejection capabilities of the system, and allow me to drive the car harder and longer at these increased power levels.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/38/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Next project on the list is assembling the Stoptech BBK. It is only the 328mm as I got it used, but will be easily upgradable to the 355mm kit as soon as I wear through a set of rotors. Here is a sneak peak of the build quality of these rotors for those that are not familiar, very thick, beefy, and well contsructed. Very excited for what these brakes, combined with the amazing calipers, will do for my overall braking. Plus, I conferred with stoptech about a rear brake upgrade (i.e. brembos) in the rear, and they assured me their kit, as with all their kits, was engineered to provide optimal braking and bias with the rear brakes factory, and did not recommend the brembos at this time. When I upgrade to the 6 speed with Brembos, I was recommended to upgrade to their 355 mm kit to keep the bias correct. Here is some pictures of their patented Aerorotor 2 piece front fully floating rotors.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/718/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] More pics of mockup on car to come. |
I currently have the Stoptech 328mm BBK for the WRX, which could fit under 17 inch wheels. I am running 18 inch wheels in anticipation of upgrading to the 355mm kit after I wear through this set of rotors. Here is a picture comparing the rotor to the stock wrx rotor. The rotor is not a huge step up in size, as it is on par with the oem brembo rotor size on the STI. The major benefits will come from increased thermal capacity, better cooling, reduction in unsprung weight, drastically increased caliper size and stiffness. I compared the weight of the stoptech rotors to the oem wrx brakes, and despite being significantly larger, both in diameter and thickness, the use of the alloy hat allows the rotor to weigh the exact same as the wrx rotor, and significantly lighter than the oem STI rotor. Very impressed so far with this kit, especially since the most significant gains will be when I put the massive stoptech caliper next to the wimpy wrx oem sliding caliper.
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Next project is installing the Koyo Aluminum Radiator. This piece is beautifully fabricated, and with its increased cooling capacity should go a long way in keeping my temperatures under control regardless of out side temperatures. I have placed extra emphasis on the cooling system, as this is a dual purpose car I did not want to sacrifice the amazing cross country abilities of this car, and wanted to be able to put the power down lap after lap. Very impressed with this piece, and will include some custom aluminum shrouding to completely duct the radiator. Motoiq put out an article claiming a 30% increase in effeciency due to the effective ducting of heat exchangers. That increased efficiency makes it pointless to install aftermarket heat exchangers and not properly duct them.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/84/wrxpic1.jpg/][IMG]http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
This clearly illustrates the increased cooling capacity of the koyo unit. I highly recommend investing in a koyo unit, as I have heard horrible reports concerning the quality and effectiveness of the Mishimoto product line. Invest in quality parts for quality results, don't buy fake, knock off ****.
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The stoptech caliper understandably trumps the stock unit. 4 piston, fixed caliper, massive increase in caliper stiffness, thermal capacity, leverage due to increase in rotor size, increased size of brake pad, etc. I can not wait to enjoy the benefits of a quality brake upgrade. With the inehrent heft to the gd chassis subaru's, and all wheel drive vehicles in general, I immediately jumped into a bbk as I felt the oem system was woefully inadequate for driving even at stock power levels. I feel a balanced brake upgrade, along with some basic suspension mods should be the first upgrade for wrx owners. With a little tweaking of roll stiffness, alignement, and basic chassis setup, combined with brakes that can stop the car repeatedly, absolutely transforms the stock car. I absolutely love the feel of a car that feels like it tears up the pavement when you jump on the whoa pedal. Of course, it is the tires that do the actual stopping and limit the amount of brake torque that can be applied, but with the anticipated 265 series Nitto nt-05 tires, I should have plenty of traction to reduce my velocity.
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Oem fans mounted on Koyo radiator. Fitment was perfect, everything bolted right up and aligned perfectly. I had to go to the hardware store and get some new bolts and washers though, as someone had done some work on the oem plastic radiator and used self tapping screws to secure the fans to the plastic. I wasn't satisfied with this method of making it fit, so went down and got some proper hardware. Admittedly, the oem fan setup is a little bulkier than I would ideally like, but I didn't feel like shelling out a couple hundred for a set of slim fans. We will see on fitment when everything is bolted up. Then it is time to fabricate up some proper ducting.
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Here's a better angle illustrating the new thickness with the fans. I don't think I will have an issue, just will have to be carefull routing the radiator hoses, make sure the hoses have suffecient clearence from the fans. Don't want to trim a hole in the hoses with the fan blades.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/825/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Last shot of this beautifull radiator before it gets bolted up and hidden behind the nasty ac condensor. Next step the radiator will be installed and ducting fabricated.
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Koyo radiator installed and checked for fitment issues. It is a little tight on clearance between the fan assembly and the front of the engine, I will have to take another picture to show the fit. This is of course due to the extra thickness of the Koyo unit just spacing the whole assembly closer together. Fit was perfect, and radiator dropped right in. Just by eyeballing it, mounting proper ducting is going to be an absolute ***** with the ac condensor in there. Of course without it, as in a true racecar build, it would be amazingly simple, but since this is a street car ditching the ac condensor is not an option for me. Fit is perfect, it almost a shame to cover up this gorgeous radiator with ducting, but since this build is more about function than looks, I'll focus on making the car go.
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/859/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Ductwork mock up completed. Used some CAD- Cardboard aided design to completely box in the Koyo radiator. Top and bottom were exceptionally easy to do, but the sides are and absolute bear with the ac condensor in the way. Sometimes it would be so much easier if it was a track only car and I could chuck the ac- and save a good 50 pounds of weight as well, but this is an aggressive street car/hpde car, so the end result needs to keep this in mind. Proper ducting can increase a coolers effectiveness by 20-30%, so it really makes no sense to purchase an aftermarket radiator and not complete the ducting. If you're on a tight budget, significant gains can be made by ducting the oem radiator. This should complete the upgrades to my cooling system at this time- upgraded radiator, proper ducting, silicone high pressure radiator hoses with tbolt clamps, and colder thermostat. I do have a crawford upgraded water pump in the garage if needed, but am trying to hold off on that part until I do the timing belt. That way I cna upgrade to a cosworth timing belt, head gasket, arp head studs, cosworth valve springs and cams, and perhaps drop in forged pistons. It just didn't make sense for me to go in there at this time and not touch other things that I wanted to.
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So I am rebuilding and installing a Stoptech 328mm bbk for the front of my wrx. I am obviously a huge believer in handling, and I feel massive, effective brakes are essential to developing a well sorted chassis. The Stoptech kit I did purchase used locally for a good deal, but I can not tell you how impressed I am with the little details I have seen with this package. I am sure everybody has read about the benefits of stoptech's approach to bbk, and their focus on total system balance to achieve superior performance.
While disassembling the calipers to be rebuilt, as I do not trust any system essential to the safety and performance of a car to an unknown maintenance and abuse record, I noticed the Stoptech kit uses radial mounts, not a lug style mount kit. This means the bolts go through a custom cnc machined fitting, which then bolts to the oem lug type mounts. This design is pure race derived, and makes the caliper much stiffer under braking. I have been continually impressed with the quality of the Stoptech package, and am looking forward to burning through this pair of rotors so I can upgrade to the 355mm bbk. This is a perfect product for a dual purpose street/track application, as it includes many of the benefits of a full race brake system without the constant maintenance. It has different sized pistons to increase pad pressure by preventing the leading edge of the pad from digging in, and thus causing the trailing edge of the pad to lift away from the friction surface. The piston sizes are appropriate for the oem brake system, maximizing braking force through all four wheels, unlike many of the bbk which move a disproportionate amount of torque forward and under utilize the rear brakes. The two piece front rotors shave off unsprung weight, which allows the use of bigger rotors without affecting suspension response. These bigger rotors allow more thermal mass to provide a larger heat sink for braking energy, thereby increasing the systems ability to stop again and again and again. Needless to say, I am very impressed with the build quality of Stoptech's products, and I am sure will be adding a seperate post to mirror other members positive experiences once this car is tested in anger. It's funny how products that do little things right instead of taking shortcuts impress me, and seperate companies making proper products from the hacks that sell products that do not improve performance. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/12/wrxpic1.jpg/][IMG]http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Rear End of the car is pretty much complete. Rear parking brake is reinstalled. What a hassle that was, I absolutely hate drum brakes. I am so glad that they are reinstalled, and so glad our cars do not use drum brakes anymore. I had to go grab my dad to help, and use his muscle car knowledge to help get those pesky things put back together. And of course, after tearing the garage apart looking for it, I can not find one shim , the triangulaar shaped one that goes on top and the blue and yellow spring connect over. I should be happy though, after almost six months I have only lost one or two little tiny parts like that, so overall pretty good. All that the rear end needs for completion is the parking brake shim, and two new bolts to replace the eccentric oem bolts to adjust camber. These bolts are not necessary with adjustable lateral links, and they will not fit the spherical bearings on the Poltec lateral links. I tried a set of the Whiteline Toe Lock kit, but those are too thick to fit the Poltec Lateral Links as well. And as anybody that has dealt with Poltec will know, they are impossible to get a hold of. Another reason to only use reputable manufacturers in your build. This is one of the few parts that I purchased secondhand and definitely regret the decision, as I feel they are a weak point of my build. Through trial and error, I was able to see that the forwardd lateral link bolts do fit the Poltec links, so I will be picking up two additional bolts from the dealer. Learn from my mistake and upgrade to a set of MSI lateral links. I will be saving my pennies to make this upgrade in the future, as I do not have a lot of faith in the Poltec company, and with the lack of response from the company, definitely have concerns about the quality of the bearing used in their links.
Enough with my rant, Parking brake is on and another project checked off the to do list. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/851/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Next project on the workbench, reinstalling the intake manifold and all the plumbing.
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With all the work I have done in other areas to maximize the efficiency of my intake and exhaust system, and trying to use every trick possible to maximize the throttle response and boost threshold while only pushing the tiny exhaust gas that a 2.0l produces, I decided I should undertake the process of porting my throttle body. This would be a relatively painless procedure, as I already had the intake manifold off the car and sitting on the bench. So I busted the throttle body loose and looked at clearances, and decided that this was not worth my time in this application. I checked clearances with the oem throttle body gasket and found no allignment problems or ridges on either the throttle body side or the manifold side. I was disappointed, as through my reading I thought that this would be a horribly designed part of the car with huge obstructions, but mine loked rather good. granted there is a tiny, tiny ridge on the throttle body side, but without anything else to do I do not feel this would make any measurable difference in the end product. Granted, the intake manifold itslef coulod use an extrude hone to smooth out the insides and combined with the flowbench to equalize the air distribution for all cylinders, but an extrude hone goes for something like $700, and if I was going to invest in that amount it would make sense to use the Cosworth intake manifold and truely maximize the benefits. But that thousand bucks would be better spent elsewhere, so for one of the first times in this project I decided to leave well enough alone.
Here is a pretty bad picture of the throttle body, but no restrictions worth porting in my opinion. Sorry for the quality, but it was late and I had quit caring, and had to get on the road to drive up to Sacramento for some job training. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/wrxpic5.jpg/][IMG]http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4774/wrxpic5.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Beatrush Pitch Stop installed and torqued to spec. All connections to the transmission complete, and ready for the intake to be installed. Besides the obvious benefits of solidifying the drivetrain mounts, such as more positive shifting under aggressive driving, less chance of parts breakage due to the pounding that results from hard driving with sloppy bushigns, it will also reduce engine and drivetrain movement in relation to the chassis. Hopefully the beatrush pitch stop, combined with the cusco motor mounts, will limit engine movement enough where there will be no contact between the fan and the radiator hoses. If not, as touched on before, I will have to secure the hoses so there is no contact. As a good safety measure, the Greddy Infometer will be running water system pressure as well as temperature, so that will give me a measure of safety if an issue does develop and help prevent catastrophic engine damage.
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Intake manifold dropped into place. This is just loosely installed, with just the bolts securing the intake to the cylinder heads attached. Lots of work still to do. Thank god I spent so much time labeling hoses and fluid transfer fittings, otherwise I would be so lost. Fortunately, I did label everything like an ocd kid, so it is easy to piece back together, just time consuming. Still, the engine bay is starting to look like a car again, and this is another big step toward getting this project back on the road again. I am missing my subie.
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Intake Manifold about 80% installed and hooked up. Fuel Lines are connected, turbo intake installed (what a b**** that was), and various other oem connections. I am still waiting on the correct fuel system from the vendor, so I decided to get the car buttoned up and will have GST Motorsports install the fuel system, as well as any professional tweaks they have learned through their years of experience in racing. I am contemplating upgrading the size of the fuel feed line, and if budget allows, a bottom mounted surge tank next to the fuel tank, which would give all the benefits of a surge tank without dealing with the constant smell of gasoline on a daily driver. That is just an idea in the works, we will have to see how budget allows, but it would be foolish to blow a motor running at the ragged edge due to the engine going lean under boost from fuel starvation. Either way, the engine bay is starting to look like a car again.
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Here is the comparison photo that everybody loves. OEM TD04 turbocharger that came stock on the WRX, and the ATP Garrett GTX 3071 stock location turbocharger. I hope you can see from this angle, this was the closest I could get to being dead on for the two turbochargers. The intake and compressor wheel are significantly larger than the oem, as well as the overall frame size of the turbo being significantly larger. If everything works out, this will (hopefully) be the largest size turbo you can fit on a oem ej205 longblock and still ahve adequate boost recovery and throttle response. Time will tell, we will have to wait for the results to see if the end product matches the original goals set for the build. Either this will be prime evidence of success, or an easy reference for those looking to achieve similar goals off the ej205 platform. Either way I am excited, and very excited to being able to swap in a 6 speed and turn up the boost.
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Here's a shot showing the difference in frame size, and turbine side of the turbocharger. Like in the previous shot, significant differences in size as well as design. I sure hope the end product turns out as I have hoped and reach my goals, I hope all the tricks I have done keeps the lag down to a bearable level and throttle response manageable.
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Perrin Equal Length Manifold and APS Up Pipe have been coated with Swaintech White Lightning Coating and then wrapped with DEI exhaust wrap to keep as much heat in the exhaust pipes as possible to add in power production and throttle response. I am a little worried about wrapping the Perrin Header, as I have heard stories about them disintegrating from the heat that a track driven wrx can produce, but after talking to Perrin they didn't think it would be an issue. We will see how it works, either way I am saving for a built 2.5 with a Full Race twin scroll turbo setup in the future, so I can look at the header as temporary and see how it performs. I feel the risks are worth it, as there is a HUGE difference in spool between hot and cold runs, so Subaru's with their long piping to get to the turbo really benefit from some sort of thermal management.
Originally, I was going to secure the heat wrap with clamps, but decided to try some axle boot clamps to give a cleaner look. We will see how it holds up. I do love how easy it is to change out the exhaust manifold on a subaru, by far the easiest header swap I have ever done. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/wrxpic5.jpg/][IMG]http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/4774/wrxpic5.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Header and up pipe installed and torqued to spec. I must say all these high quality race parts and prep give the car a purposefull bad a$$ look to the underside. Hopefully the coating and wraps will keep the underhood temperatures to a minimum, and increase throttle response. I'm not doing before and after comparisons, so there is no direct measurements, but it would be interesting to see the exact change in boost threshold and underhood temperatures with the coatings, wraps, and hood venting. Either way, this thing should be fast if it ever gets finished.
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Oem turbo is reinstalled for break in and troubleshooting (hopefully the troubleshooting won't be necessary). I want to break in my brand new clutch with some lower horsepower (i.e. stage 2) rather than throw 300+ whp at the clutch for dyno tuning. Also, I decided I want all an fittings for the fluid transfer connections on the turbo, and have all lines safety wired in to ensure reliability. So, I will be farming this out to GST Motorsports to install the turbo and aeromotive fuel system. I don't have any experience with an lines, so I am oging to have them show me how they install these products, so I can tackle the next install. With how flammable these systems can be, I felt more comfortable letting a shop with experience do the install and then I can take that knowledge on to my next projects. I have no experience setting up high performance fuel systems, so decided to swallow my pride and farm this project out. While at GST I am contemplating a couple little projects to be added to the car. The dream list so far would be for them to install the fuel system, gtx3071 turbo, surge tank with 8 gauge fuel line supply, custom cold air intake (as mine is 2.5") with higher flowing maf, external wastegate dump into exhaust, and I would love a side exit exhaust ( cutting all the weight off the cat back exhaust). I probably won't go with all of that, but it is an impressive dream list. We will see what GST recommends for my goals.
OEM TD04 turbo is reinstalled and torqued to spec. I am waiting on gaskets to finish plumbing in the aps exhaust, so that is why I just have the top portion of the downpipe installed. All exhaust piping in the engine bay is coated with swaintech white lightning as well wrapped, except for the custom race cat I had welded into the downpipe by GST. Even with all these modifications, I try to be an environmentally conscious enthusiast. In hindsight I wish I had v banded the catalytic converter in place, but it was a great idea at the time and should be as effecient as any catted system, and only cost a few horsepower to a catless system. I used a high quality race cat to be able to withstand the high exhaust temperatures a hard driven turbocharged engine can produce. GST did an excellent job welding in the cat and ensuring the exhaust will still fit perfectly, no differences in size after they welded in the cat. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/828/wrxpic1.jpg/][IMG]http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/2397/wrxpic1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
Fujita Cold Air Intake (purchasxed through esx motorsports) installed and torqued to spec. Still need one extra T bolt clamp to finish install. The Fujita Intake came off of my dads previous sti, and there are some things I like a lot about this intake. I like how it comes with a heat shield, for when you shorten the cold air intake to a ram air intake. The Fujita intake uses a high quality K&N Air Filter. There was a some modification needed to make this intake fit on a wrx, despite the fact that the Fujita intake lists the same part number for 02-06 wrx and sti. It seems the abs module and brake line routing is different on the sti. I had to break out the cutter and trim the heat shielding to allow the heat shield ot fit around the wrx brake lines. I trimmed a little extra clearance, which slightly reduces the effect of the heat shielding, but I absolutely do not want anything rubbing against the brake lines.
I am not sure if long term I will be using this cold air intake. It narrows down to 2.5", and not sure if I want a custom 3 inch tube bent up to allow more airflow into the engine. I will be talking to GST motorsports and see what they recommend. The Fujita intake does use a stock size maf opening, to enable the intake to be run without requiring a retune (although I would never run any power modification on the wrx without a retune). Whatever intake goes on the car, all piping and heat shielding in the engine bay will be wrapped with DEI gold reflective heat tape to keep the intake charge as dense as possible. Whichever way I choose to go, the engine bay is starting to look like a car again. Looking forward to getting this beast back on the road, even with the oem turbo, I am so excited to feel how the car handles with all the handling modifications, I want to feel the crispness in the drivetrain and suspension. [URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/wrxpic2.jpg/][IMG]http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/9969/wrxpic2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL] |
View of Cold Air intake extension, and how it fits into the fender well. Whole package looks good and fits well. Nice to see the whole process coming back together. Hoepfully I will be able to fire up the engine this weekend, big emphasis on hopefully, I am sure something small will pop up and delay the startup, but its getting there.
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Mock up of the APS TMIC to verify fitment. This intercooler is absolutely massive, and barely fits into the space provided. I had to bend the AC lines, and will need to wrap them so they do not rub and wear. I hope this intercooler functions well, as it should significantly lower intake temperatures. When I install the garrett turbo, I will need to isntall the Cobb heat shield to keep from cooking the bottom side of the intercooler. This intercooler is truely the largest that can be installed in the top mount location, as it uses all available space and then some. Hopefully it functions as good as it looks.
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I will be using a hood scoop and splitter off a jdm bugeye sti. This gives a correct combination of parts that ducts the maximum amount of heat through the intercooler. We will see how it looks all bolted up, but I am prepared to do a little bit of custom ducting to further maximize the air going through the intercooler.
Then to address the additional pressure build up that the hood scoop creates in the engine bay (i.e. air getting crammed into the top through the scoop and the front through the radiator), I will be using run cool hood louvers like those on Turn In Concepts Time Attack WRX. This will help lower the air pressure build up in the engine bay, and by venting it over the top of the hood helps out slightly in aerodynamic terms. It will increase the cooling system's efficiency substantially, as the air coming through the radiator is not having to fight to get into a high pressure engine bay, but instead able to come into a lower pressure space. This, along with the cooling effect of ambient temperatures in the engine bay, should substantially help in overall cooling of both engine temps and intake charge temperatures. So, since this is a budget build, oem bugeye hood, jdm hood scoop, jdm splitter, run cool hood louvers placed like the ones on TIC's car. Unfortunately a vented carbon hood is not in the budget, but anyone that wants to donate one ....:lol: |
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