The down n' dirty DIY, lil' bit at a time bugeye self-improvement thread
 

Hello all,

This won't be some mind-blowing thread that has legions of followers. I just wanted to document things that I'm (slowly) doing to my poor, little DD wagon. It's my second WRX wagon, both 02's. First one was a Vishnu "Stage 0" when I bought it unknowingly modded, then found the secret key sequence to change maps; wicked fast, 17 PSI, pink injectors, WL rear bar, Koni dampers. Awesome car. I wrecked her, all my fault (but the cat [I]shouldn[/I]'t have caught the center console on fire- which ultimately totaled it), and I live with that everyday. So, I am sorta trying to replicate that performance a lil' at a time.

It's also here [url=http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2590018]The down n/ dirty DIY, lil' bit at a time bugeye self-improvement thread - NASIOC[/url], should be pretty much identical. NASIOC is my "linked in" for technical and such, i-club is my facebook for the local flavor, for the most part.

She's mostly stock for now, 111K miles, dented a bit, cracked here and there, but she's solid and doesn't lose a drop of oil in 6K+ miles. Looking for mild power mods to improve drivability and some oomph. Want a balanced car that goes, stops and corners like it should. At most, an AP and tune later on to tie it all together. HI-Flow catted downpipe at the extreme (unless that new CA smog law comes to reality and only a visual and OBDII check).

Day one, 87,xxx miles
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[B]Noise makers:[/B]

[B]Done:[/B]

[S]...[/S]
V7 JDM STI hood scoop and splitter (ok, mostly for looks...gotta try something to stop east bay lesbians from pulling up next to me and being disappointed )
Koyo all Al rad after OEM pooped the bed. 2012
Gimmick lightweight crank pulley; def idles better and 1st, 2nd gears have smoother acceleration. 5-3-15

PnP TMIC inlet elbows w/ reflective foil wrapping;
Mishimoto Y-pipe & TB hose, t-bolt clamps;
PnP OEM throttle body [OCT 2015]

PnP OEM cast Fe "Crucial" headers w/ lava wrap & Hvy duty foil shields
'11 STI up-pipe to remove OEM UP cat (yay), light PnP work, w/ foil tape, lava wrap and Hvy duty foil sheet shields
PTP Turbo blankie (with ThermoTec silver heat spray on interior to help the wool stay put)
AVO Turboworld combo MAF hose and turbo inlet (gorgeous...)
GS hi-flow X-pipe (w/ wrap & foil tape -scored a deal on lightly used one)
Hush Catback, 3" with GS adapter to OEM DP, TS exh hangers
[Dec 2015]



[B]Planned:[/B]

Heat tape or Thermo-Tec silver spray on TMIC end tank and side near turbo (write-up...)
VDO boost gauge
Cobb AP V2 and stage 1 OTS tune at first, then e-tune from ???



[B]Handling/Braking/Drivetrain:[/B]

[B]Done:[/B]

02/03 sedan 20 mm rear sway bar with 04 STI rear bar mounts :ritz:
ProThane 20mm rear sway bushings 2015
DIY rear subframe lockdown (botox) bolts 2011?
Kartboy rear sway links 2012?
ebay (DME) rear wagon strut top bar with WL quick releases :ritz: 2012
Centric prem. rotors and stoptech street pads all 'round with superblue fluid (cannot recommend highly enough; still hording 2 cans since it's illegal now )
TorqueSolutions shifter bushings, front and rear 2012
TS tranny cradle bushings 2012
Kartboy/TiC shift lever bushings 2012
OEM momo knob 2012
Kartboy rear outrigger bushings, comfort 2013
DIY Trans mount goo mod (fill OEM mount bushing gaps with window-weld; more filled than Gp N but same hardness) 3-23-14
[URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2652073"]WL 22259[/URL] bushing kit for the OEM front links 7-26-14
Kartboy comfort rear diff bushings 2-22-15
eBay machined Al pitch-stop [OCT 2015]
H-brace, Cusco [MAY 2016]



[B]Planned :popcorn::[/B]

ebay (DME) front strut top bar = ready, now that TMIC is back on with mods
...
...
Group N eng. mounts or at least NEW ones, existing feel shot...
Perrin short shift adapter
H-6 brake mod


TB in progress...
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[B]Appearance[/B]:

[U]Done[/U]:

Sprayed the alt cover [below], boost solenoid cover, and battery hold down in yellow. Matches the battery top and contrasts the engine bay (and dirty engine); now easily shows how dirty the underhood is as the yellow shows everything lol
V7 Scoop + splitter...how I found one in good shape, in MBP, I'll never know.
CatzFET high output bulbs in fogs
DIY cargo mat from garage floor mat
DIY TMIC screen mesh
Front plate bracket to raise it and angle it backwards a la --> \(IIII
LEDs for map and room lights
LEDs for rear plate lights
Great condition OEM fogs w/ rockblocker film
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[U]Planned[/U]:

DIY grille mod: gut the plastic 'cept badge (JDM "i"), replace with steel mesh, re-shoot plastic bits in trim black [in progress now...pics below. Mesh is on now, just needs prime n paint]
Hella 'tones behind grille
blacked out low mile used OEM headlights
ebay radiator diverter plate
Philips VisionPlus bulbs
DIY cutting board mudflaps/air-brakes (not IKEA, but still Swedish!)

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reserved for hooda **** knows

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3479182]reserved for eye-candy mods...[/QUOTE]

Schmexy.


How'd you do the DIY subframe locks? WL and others charge a pretty ridiculous pretty penny for them I know.

[QUOTE="de_engineered;3479309"]

Schmexy.

How'd you do the DIY subframe locks? WL and others charge a pretty ridiculous pretty penny for them I know.[/QUOTE]

Thanks!

About $20 on mcmaster-Carr and with the minimum purchase for the parts I had a full 2nd set that I sold so it was less than $10 for mine. I can pm the deets if ya like. LMK

The real expense was a tap to clean out the chassis female threads; must be clean n free or you can snap a weld and be sad banana.

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX]Thanks![/QUOTE]

Welcome!

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX]The real expense was a tap to clean out the chassis female threads; must be clean n free or you can snap a weld and be sad banana.[/QUOTE]

Aah, so it's not a non-destructive mod. Still might be interested though, PM kindly :nod:

[QUOTE="de_engineered;3479330"]

Welcome!

Aah, so it's not a non-destructive mod. Still might be interested though, PM kindly :nod:[/QUOTE]

It's *usually* not destructive. You don't cut the threads, just clean the existing ones. It's a factory Bolt location used during assembly of the chassis; just a nut tack welded to the sheet metal. If the added botox bolt binds, it can shear and then it rattles til you're insane or you cut through a panel above it near the gas tank and re-weld the nut. The tap clears the threads from rust n road Dust. Even an EE can do it...lol.

It pulls the subframe assembly up to the chassis. Along with the strut bar and it made a huge difference. Add the 20mm bar, links and outrigger bushings (forgot those above) and rear is very solid and the car rotates well but controlled.

Gotcha gotcha. I'll have a look under my car and see how it works.

I've a 24mm rear bar, reinforced mounts and endlinks - I'd say the bar made a huge difference, and the endlinks and mounts, which went on later, helped a lot on turns (bye bye understeer).

Then again, before even the sway bar et al I also had almost every poly bushing you can do put on. I'm just always curious which particular suspension mods make the most difference (as said, sways were the biggest change, and many if not all will back that up).

Sounds like you're following budget-friendly/DIY mods.
If you're going to keep the stock panel filter and housing for the intake, I'd suggest going with the Intake Silencer delete mod. Turbo spool sounds wicked after removing the tube in the fender.

[QUOTE=BrewMasta;3479385]Sounds like you're following budget-friendly/DIY mods.
If you're going to keep the stock panel filter and housing for the intake, I'd suggest going with the Intake Silencer delete mod. Turbo spool sounds wicked after removing the tube in the fender.[/QUOTE]

^:nod:

Thanks for the reminder...I've already got the replacement tube that goes in where the snorkus does. Just gotta get off my *** and install it.

So, TMIC elbows are done PnP-ing. I was being too easy on them, just grabbed the HSS dremel cutter and really hogged on them for the entry knife-edging. Then flap wheel and finally hand sanding. Pics later...

TB work is well on its way: good knife-edge on the alum. begun, butterfly edged (see above), "step" on inlet side ground down and blended. Prolly just another hour or so on it and it'll be ready for re-assembly. Gonna try for a very polished effect here in the TB. Yeee!

Also tried some work on the exh manifold - sheesh. started ok with stones and a dbl cut carbide in a dremel on ONE port. Very slow, but to be expected. More about training me. Then tried a BNIB harbor freight "cutout" tool, a rotazip like thing with a ball-end carbide burr. Damn good thing I had the collet tight - it vibrated SO bad it almost jumped out of my hands, could barely turn it off. Then, when trying to restart it (empty) it won't, like the switch is dead. Muy furioso! So, out $25 since I bought it over 90 days ago. Lesson learned.

Pro PnP services for the exhaust work is looking more and more likely, as I'll now have to buy a proper die grinder, flame shaped burr(s), LOTS more flap wheels and cartridge rolls and most important: time. :yell: :rant:

Yo, I was actually planning to do some DIY PnP myself, and have a [URL="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51HtUyoVl8L.jpg"]die grinder[/URL] and carbide tip if you're interested if borrowing. Could do a joint sesh; I've got some TGV deletes I've been meaning to polish out - I've also wanted to do my TMIC elbows too.

The difference between it and a Dremel (got one of those too if need be) is like filling a tire with a bike pump versus a compressor :D

[QUOTE="de_engineered;3488694"]Yo, I was actually planning to do some DIY PnP myself, and have a [URL="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51HtUyoVl8L.jpg"]die grinder[/URL] and carbide tip if you're interested if borrowing. Could do a joint sesh; I've got some TGV deletes I've been meaning to polish out - I've also wanted to do my TMIC elbows too.

The difference between it and a Dremel (got one of those too if need be) is like filling a tire with a bike pump versus a compressor :D[/QUOTE]

Hmmm, tempting. Yeah, I was really bummed the rotazip was DOA; but I'd also effed up and bought a foot switch that's ON-OFF And not variable, dohh! My time available is an hour here and 20 minutes there; a day session might be hard to come by. Might borrow once yer done(?).

The dremel is ok or even better for tmic and TB work, IMHO. ESpecially with a flex pen attachment.

Thanks

So....

I ran the numbers (spreadsheets FTW) and my best guess comparing purchasing even a cheap HF die grinder and variable speed controller, better carbides, plus other accessories needed; then add in my time (low and variable), mess and the potential to screw things up royally and the modest fee to PnP my existing (spare) headers is a no brainer even with shipping boat-anchors to and fro. Financially, it's a wash almost.

So, since the collectors are going pro treatment, and I scored a lightly used GS X pipe that needs nothing PnP-wise, that left the OEM 2011 STI up pipe. The inlet to the UP is larger than the exit of the passgr side collector outlet and I wanted to retain an anti-reversion step there, so the exit diameter will stay about the same as now, just polished up by the pro service.

That left me and my dremel to hack on the UP inlet to clean it up, remove a step and generally make it smooth as possible as far into the pipe as possible. Same for the exit of the UP at the turbo but really just polishing so that there is no increase in diameter, wanted to nozzle it down and accelerate exh gas flow right before the poor lil' TD04. In the best situation, I'd have the turbo inlet PnP'd...maybe when I kill this one. Just no funds/time/spare turbo right now.

The UP exit port got a good scrape down and removal of some extra weld beads just after the flex section; there is a slight bend as the tube enters the turbo flange, so I took care to really clean up the outside bend on the inner wall, as this is where the gases likely will "hit" and change direction(?). Alum Ox. stone and some carbide burr to get through the very hard weld bead lumps, then 60 and 180 grit flapwheels. I had some 800 grit wet/dry handy, so gave it a final going over by hand to really make it smooth. The lower portion of the pipe extends thru the larger ID flex in a continuous pipe, "blowing" into the short bendy section just before the turbo flange. I was able to reach the first inch or two of this pipe section to smooth it, too.

The UP entry got similar treatment, but more material was removed (aforementioned reversion step) and it was smoothed about 6" into the pipe up to the 180 flapwheel, which is pretty darn smooth on stainless. I may get some 240 and/or 320 crossbuffs (to finish my TB and TMIC elbows), and go back at it :der:, time permitting. Idea being to get a highly reflective interior that would help keep heat in the exh gas stream.

This is all probably just ****ing in the wind compared to the real gains from just going with a catless UP. But, it couldn't hurt spool and low/mid torque. The UP and headers, PnP TMIC elbows, PnP TB will probably go in in the April time-frame, pending funds for the outside service.

thanks...

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Put on a DIY Window-weld'ed 5MT mount. No chance to drive more than around block, but berry nice! Reverse is better, 2-3 is better. Shifter stays put even under accel

Cannot wait for the rear diff bushings next week and Scotty cocktail.

Sorry no pics, but I went whole-hog on filling the OEM mount, way more than others on the subie sites have shown.

edit: It's like a new tranny...everything is smooth, connected and power delivery is seamless. So ****ed I waited so long to put this on, especially since it took less than an hour (w/ hand tools...and I was already BEAT from other stuff yesterday).

Finally did more than gas/maintenance...

Picked up a near new set of 225/45-17 bridgestone potenza 960as's on '07 7-spoke WRX wheels painted matte black...looks sweet, drives GREAT. The shimmy is gone that used to be there even driving straight, etc. SOOO nice to have decent rubber...

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Wheel gap exaggerated due to suspension droop during swap over...
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[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3525569]Finally did more than gas/maintenance...

Picked up a near new set of 225/45-17 bridgestone potenza 960as's on '07 7-spoke WRX wheels painted matte black...looks sweet, drives GREAT. The shimmy is gone that used to be there even driving straight, etc. SOOO nice to have decent rubber...

[/QUOTE]

Aaaannd, 1,000 miles later, a sidewall blows out on an exit ramp :ohwell: Off to the tire shop for some new shoes. Same size, Kumho Ecsta 4X, A/S performance. Nice so far, usual squirm and still breaking them in :giggity:. Well, there goes the mod budget for a while! :faint2:

Installed the whiteline front end link bushings with new metal tubes in OEM wagon links. Install [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2652073"]pics [/URL]and review [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2652340"]here [/URL]. Nice so far. Bit of added nvh, but to be expected.

Old ones were pretty well shot, dry rotted, decaying.

edit: Front bar is SOOOO much more effective now. Love it. highly recommended.

The all metal ones are even more harsh, but totally worth it. The Perrins with the heims were almost a bit brutal (but also telepathic in response), so the Whitelines with the poly bushings were an improvement :)

[QUOTE="04GG;3554668"]The all metal ones are even more harsh, but totally worth it. The Perrins with the heims were almost a bit brutal (but also telepathic in response), so the Whitelines with the poly bushings were an improvement :)[/QUOTE]

Yeah, heard nothing but problems with heimed perrins. Plus texa$! I'm happy with the inserts.

Nuttin' special...04/05 fabric sun visors so I don't feel like I'm in a rented Yaris.

Thinking about some aero mods to combat dense winter air loss of MPG.

Santa saw I was a good boy this year and is gonna hook me up with something like these gems... :nod: :SHOCKED: :dance:

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3573597]Santa saw I was a good boy this year and is gonna hook me up with something like these gems... :nod: :SHOCKED: :dance:[/QUOTE]

Finally!

[QUOTE=de_engineered;3573996]Finally![/QUOTE]

****, I know right? :faint:

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3574073]****, I know right? :faint:[/QUOTE]

Lolz.

In the meantime, I've accumlated a complete set of intake parts, so I can send the lot off to be taken care of, and only expereince the downtime of taking off the old and putting on the new (and to sell the old for much the same purpose).

I'm curious to see what first hand accounts you'll have of the PnP. I've faith in it, but wana see just how strong the powah will be...

[QUOTE=de_engineered;3574137]Lolz.

In the meantime, I've accumlated a complete set of intake parts, so I can send the lot off to be taken care of, and only expereince the downtime of taking off the old and putting on the new (and to sell the old for much the same purpose).

I'm curious to see what first hand accounts you'll have of the PnP. I've faith in it, but wana see just how strong the powah will be...[/QUOTE]

Yeps, I'm DIY PNP-ing a TB and the TMIC elbows as seen above here, plus Mishi Silic. TMIC hoses on the intake side. I *plan* to do the headers, UP, X-pipe and intake stuff in one big mod party, so hard to pin down impact of any one improvement.

Butt dyno will be :jaw: compared to what it is now. I'm looking for better low RPM driveability, better midrange oomph and smoother top end. And some MPG gain from losing the UP cat will be niiice.

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3574216]Yeps, I'm DIY PNP-ing a TB and the TMIC elbows as seen above here, plus Mishi Silic. TMIC hoses on the intake side. I *plan* to do the headers, UP, X-pipe and intake stuff in one big mod party, so hard to pin down impact of any one improvement.

Butt dyno will be :jaw: compared to what it is now. I'm looking for better low RPM driveability, better midrange oomph and smoother top end. And some MPG gain from losing the UP cat will be niiice.[/QUOTE]

SoCal Porting said they'd do my elbows for free, given the size of work I would be sending their way, but yeah, easy enough to do on your own. Forget what tools you have (just don't use a Dremel!) but I have a 1/4" die grinder and a carbide tip if you need it.

And that's true of most upgrades, doesn't make time/finanical sense to do just one thing and observe, nor to do every permutation of upgrades to see max effect per min input... It's all good idea stuff that wouldn't hurt in tandem.

Streeting is all bout the low end grunt and back in the seat stuff, agree 110%. And I like mods like this that don't just raise the ceiling, but lower the floor (make it easier to go slow, +MPG, better driveability overal).

[QUOTE=de_engineered;3574226]SoCal Porting said they'd do my elbows for free, given the size of work I would be sending their way, but yeah, easy enough to do on your own. Forget what tools you have (just don't use a Dremel!) but I have a 1/4" die grinder and a carbide tip if you need it.

And that's true of most upgrades, doesn't make time/finanical sense to do just one thing and observe, nor to do every permutation of upgrades to see max effect per min input... It's all good idea stuff that wouldn't hurt in tandem.

Streeting is all bout the low end grunt and back in the seat stuff, agree 110%. And I like mods like this that don't just raise the ceiling, but lower the floor (make it easier to go slow, +MPG, better driveability overal).[/QUOTE]

Sing it, sister!

I get few modding days to myself, so it's a marathon each time; +1 on getting spares to mod off-car then just install.

I did the TMIC elbers and TB with a dremel and stones/cartridge rolls/flap wheels/cross-buffs and wasn't too bad, really. The TB plate I did by hand with a file so as to not bork it with power tools. :nerd:

Cool that SCP will pro bono your elbow work. I was literally about to ship them my spare headers when manna came from the internet with this local guy. :wavey: I'll prolly do my old elbows and TB this winter/spring and sell them to recoup costs.

kthxbye

Thanks, I'll shut the **** up now...
 

X-pipe not included...

The Crucial passgr side collector's cross-pipe inlet was a tad too small to mate up with the GS X pipe, so out comes the carbide burrs, stones and such. Also, started hacking off the heatshield tabs - eek!

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I love this thread! I'm very happy I stumbled upon it today. I always love DIY mods, and from the looks of it, you have quite a few ideas on some of these. Definitely like the idea of stiffening the OEM tranny and pitch mounts given they are kinda pricey to buy aftermarket. I have no experience with PnP so that doesnt help much. Looking forward to many more picture updates on the progress. Super jealous that you found a MBP V7 scoop - I had to pay out of my A$$ for a JDM one....shipping took forever - and it was in primer only. ALso, why not just do the koji mod on your headlights you have right now? It is very easy to do and one of the first real mods I did to my car back in the day. Good luck with your current projects!

LOL, Just realized you've had this open for a year now....Looks like my mod budget! :)

[QUOTE=wrecker83;3578117]LOL, Just realized you've had this open for a year now....Looks like my mod budget! :)[/QUOTE]

:faint:

Sad, I know. Not a lot of mod money and even less time... Add in a touch of ADD, pack-rattiness, and a 6 year-old and here we are.

Thanks for the suggestions...

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3578156]:faint:

Sad, I know. Not a lot of mod money and even less time... Add in a touch of ADD, pack-rattiness, and a 6 year-old and here we are.

Thanks for the suggestions...[/QUOTE]

Haha I totally hear ya man. Ive got four kids at home and my budget is non existant. I love to browse, but never get to buy lol. Last mod was replacing two coil packs because my car was bucking under wide open throttle - apparently the coils were going out. Car runs great now, but no fun parts that I can afford. The struggle is real! Lol

Ever closer...

Ported OEM pipes have the shield mounts hacked off and ground down, just need to quickly spray with header paint on the bare parts, then lava wrap goes on with wrap paint and foil for shielding.

Throttle body porting is DONE, just need to clean TB and attach the IACV.

Unfortunately, maintenance is getting in the way of fun - koyo all alum. rad (~30K mi.) is cracked and the stat is due, so doing a fix-it day: CX alum rad, coolant, stat+gasket, A/C idler pulley, lightened crank pulley install, access. belts, oil cooler hoses and cooler gasket (leaks). Oh, and oil/filter change. gawdamn. Will try to get the Koyo repaired and sell or keep for backup when the CX dies...lol.

Oh, and pretty sure the passgr side valve cover gasket is shot...NEVER. ****ing. ENDS. And the fuel pipes leak in the cold. FML.

If you're going to be up in there, why not get my lightweight alternator pulley that I have FS :eyebrows:

(And/or my exhaust wrap - both at discounted prices...)

On a slightly more serious note, can't you get the fuel stuff warrantied for bugeyes, or is that only a rails thing?

[QUOTE="de_engineered;3582208"]If you're going to be up in there, why not get my lightweight alternator pulley that I have FS :eyebrows:

(And/or my exhaust wrap - both at discounted prices...)

On a slightly more serious note, can't you get the fuel stuff warrantied for bugeyes, or is that only a rails thing?[/QUOTE]

Obama sees what you did there,...lol

I'm good for wrap, thx. The alt pulley is supposta be merder to get off n on. Crank pulley should be nuff.

Cold fuel leak recall was only certain states and ended in 2014. I may call carlson to see if they can still swing it. Else it's rbm in Hayward. C ya.

Put the Kartboy rear diff bushings in yesterday....

Figured to be ~1 hour...rust turned it into a 3 hr kitten-punch-inducing cussfest. Outer nuts/bolts came off fine...the studs and the nuts on the diff were friggin' seized bad to the bushing bracket. I had PB blast'ed it the day before and that morning 2X...still stuck. Torched 2X, and dead-blow hammered the open-end wrench to break it free. Almost didn't need to double-nut the diff studs it was so stuck. FML.

But, once they broke free, boom, out in 5 minutes. VICTORY!

Ratcheting wrenches saved a half-hour on their own, too.

I had a spare bracket that I'd de-rusted, rattle-canned and pre-loaded the KB bushings into, so that sped things up a bit. Plus, the old one was too rusty to be put back in.

edit: Driving experience is SO much improved...cannot put into words. NVH not much to speak of, but already had the outrigger bushings, tranny bushings, etc., so did not add much. Bit of vibration from the rear on certain road surfaces, but worth it. Need the pitch stop in, now!

Progress...of sorts. Finished wrapping the ported headers and GS crosspipe. ~45 feet in total of 1" DEI titanium wrap. Naturally, about 5' short of enough to also do the UP out of the 50' roll. :sad: Anybody wanna buy 5' of 1" wrap?

Passenger side collector was to most trouble, err fun - compound curves with increasing circumference = :mad2::Cry::dizzy::yell:. I'd hacked/ground off all the heatshield tabs - no heatsinks for me, thanks.

I used plain old plastic zipties to hold it on and tight initially, then went back with the Harbor Freight metal ties.
Pro-tip: Get the metal ties as snug as you can by hand, then trim the excess to ~1/2" and grab the stub with a needle nose pliers and spin it downward towards the band. I was easily able to pull another 3/8-1/2" of tie through the lock. It also tends to tuck the sharp end of the stub in, too. This replicates the use of the DEI wrap lock [URL="https://www.deipowersports.com/products/exhaust-wraps-accessories/locking-tie-tool"]tool[/URL]. Then use a small screwdriver to push down the tab in the lock. :ritz:

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Finishing it will be Thermo-Tec silver heat spray and some heavy duty foil tape with safety wire. Belts, meet suspenders. It's almost a shame to cover this gorgeous wrap, but hell, it's under the car and splash shield for the most part.

Lookin good like it should!

So shiny... Much less emissivity... :cool:

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Taping the OEM flex section should help make the lava wrapping easier...acts like a solid surface; also reduces surface area to radiate heat. :der:
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This will get wrapped with PTP Lava, thermo-tec spray, then another layer of foil tape w/ safety wire. The PTP wrap *looks* better than the DEI titanium...tighter weave. Jus' sayin'.

Gimmick light crank pulley on with belt service and P/S pulley replacement...

Prothane rear 20mm sway bar mount bushings installed... Better.

A little cheesed that I had to split the bottom to get it over the bar, but 10 seconds with a sheet-rock knife and done. No way in hell it'd have been pushed over the end of the bar (plus have to undo the link bolts - eff that) and kept the lube in there. Also, these are a *bit* taller than the OEM rubbers, so getting the bracket back on was a pain; I have the 04/05 brackets and mounts.

[IMG]https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/prodimages/prothane/pr161104_red_lg.png[/IMG]

Huh, interesting. OEM, Whiteline, Perrin, any other aftermarket bushing I've ever seen has a slit in them from the factory.

[QUOTE=de_engineered;3603712]Huh, interesting. OEM, Whiteline, Perrin, any other aftermarket bushing I've ever seen has a slit in them from the factory.[/QUOTE]

I know right? Not like they were generics, label on box said 04/05 WRX rear. Will have to check the fronts I got at the same time; the split on those is on "the side", relatively speaking.

Praise jeebus, let us spray...
 

Review of spray [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=43521499#post43521499"]here[/URL].

Got comped some thermo-tec hi-heat thermal wrap spray and 1" lava wrap :banana:.

So, to give an honest review, I undid half the GS XP wrap and re-did it with the TT wrap. Then painted the DEI, TT wraps and UP with PTP lava wrap. :derp:


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[ATTACH]98609[/ATTACH]

XP:
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Pipe work continues…just need to tape up the wrapped/sprayed crucial collectors and we're set to launch.

Got a GS master cylinder brace BNIB pretty cheap so put that on today while I had the fuel filter out for replacement. Haven't been able yet to put it to the test, but feel certainly is better; needs a bleed of the system, regardless.

One quibble was with the brace install: the brace went on the shock tower OK, but my MC body was way far out and I couldn't get the lock nut and red "foot" between the brace and MC. Had to grind the red "foot" piece down a few mm and slip it in. It barely fit. Noticed some vibration in the pedals, too. Meh, will live with it. Gonna ping GS on the fitment, tho. Have a happy 4th, people.

Pics below now...


Flange ends painted with permatex copper gasket spray. Nothing but life, work, wife and kid preventing install now lol!

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[ATTACH]98268[/ATTACH]

I'm in the process of porting my headers (way longer project than I thought lol). I'd love to see an update once everything is installed, how long things are holding up and what-not. Still researching about heat protection

[QUOTE=Holdenian;3609352]I'm in the process of porting my headers (way longer project than I thought lol). I'd love to see an update once everything is installed, how long things are holding up and what-not. Still researching about heat protection[/QUOTE]

Hah! I'd love to see an update, too! Criminal how long it takes me to do ish on this car.

For heat protection, a good read is [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2303664"]here[/URL], porting stuff [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729711"]here [/URL], and [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=763991"]here[/URL].

I have a set of 02 OEM cast iron collectors that have the stock heat shield tabs cut off and some light porting on one port, if you'd like to go that route; could sell cheap, LMK.

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3609356]Hah! I'd love to see an update, too! Criminal how long it takes me to do ish on this car.

For heat protection, a good read is [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2303664"]here[/URL], porting stuff [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729711"]here [/URL], and [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=763991"]here[/URL].

I have a set of 02 OEM cast iron collectors that have the stock heat shield tabs cut off and some light porting on one port, if you'd like to go that route; could sell cheap, LMK.[/QUOTE]

pm'd. And thanks for those links! I try to make time for my car, but it NEVER feels like enough haha. gl getting it all finished!

Awwww yiiiisssss...

ebay pitchstop is on when the ported/polished TB, Mishi Y-pipe, ported TMIC elbows, and PCV valve replaced. Shifts like a honda now with the PS...so crisp and sure, slop is gone (I'm sure that the tranny mount and other upgrades help a lot, too). Bit of NVH, but not bad and the wife even liked the gear whine (WTF?!?). Starter sounds like it's behind the radio, now, lol. Throttle on when at a roll is very nice, power delivery is direct with the better driveline and throttle/air flow. Very pleased to find almost NO oil in the TMIC, not even a drop fell out.

I had to re-use the worm drive clamps on the Mishi TB hose - the ones included in the kit would not fit when on the TMIC/TB....grrrr. Guess I can sell the ones I didn't use - FAIL. Did not do the BPV hose - not worth the struggle at the turbo inlet end. Will do it when I do the inlet.

Also did a partial ground Mod while waiting for it to cool off; between this and the IACV cleaning, it idles so smoothly that its almost hard to tell its on. Amazeballs.

Finally, I replaced the dried out turbo boost vac lines from the turbo, to WG and boost solenoid; fixed a janky repair I made loong ago. More fun there as the line connected to the boost solenoid (dark black hose) was soooo dried out that when pushing the new connector in, it cracked the black hose. Cut it back and...cracked again! :mad: Had to cut about 2" of this dark hose to get to a point where it was still flexible enough to take it like a good girl should :devil:. I'll re-do this entire line from BCS to the Tee when I do the UP work next.

eBay pitch stop mount - prothane inserts and custom machined bracket. Fits perfectly.
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Thermal wrapped y-pipe and TMIC elbows...b/c racecar :banana:
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The Mishimoto (yeah, I know...) y-pipe fit was just so-so, but it went on enough to get the t-band clamp on the turbo outlet with no leaks. The IACV on the used-TB I had was pretty damn clean, I thought, but it threw the P1507 code and idled to like 2500 RPM, then went into limp mode. Had to clean my old, known-good IACV and swap - ran perfectly. Whew.

More fun was to be had when removing the PCV valve's hose - poor ol' beeotch was cooked hard and cracked at the PCV end. Decided not to half-ass it and off to the store I went. Only to find that ~3/4" ID PCV hose is damned hard to locate on the shelf. Got lucky at AZ when an employee with a brain (****, I know, right?) found a pre-formed Dorman PCV hose for a Ford that was a perfect fit right out of the box! Best $13 I ever spent.

Pro-tip: Dorman P/N [URL="http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32423-46025.aspx?origin=keyword"]46025[/URL] is a perfect fit for the block to PCV valve on EJ20x motors and replaces OEM P/N 99071AB550 without trimming.

They really should come from the factory with the aluminum pitch stop, even with rubber bushings.

And I was gonna PnP and thermal coat my elbows haha.

[QUOTE=de_engineered;3615890]They really should come from the factory with the aluminum pitch stop, even with rubber bushings.

And I was gonna PnP and thermal coat my elbows haha.[/QUOTE]

Certainly port/knife-edge the elbows' entry...thermal coat seems like a bit much (says the guy who insulated and foil wrapped his Y-pipe: :nerd:). I went with foil on the elbows, figuring that most of the heat transfer was infrared (radiated), not convective where thermal coat makes more sense IMHO.

I don't think that the PS being metal or not makes a huge difference over plastic - it's all pretty rigid along the lengthwise dimension. It's the bushings that make the improvements. If I get tired of this PS, I have an OEM unit with the big end all window-weld'ed up to take out the slop. Makes it similar to the Whiteline hard rubber inserts for the OEM PS.

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3615918]Certainly port/knife-edge the elbows' entry...thermal coat seems like a bit much (says the guy who insulated and foil wrapped his Y-pipe: :nerd:).[/QUOTE]

It's a while-they're-in-there kinda thing. Big cost of getting coating is the setup and cure/cook time, so it's negligible to spray some extra tiny parts. I'd like to coat the [url=http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/water-to-air-intercoolers-p-211.html?osCsid=ac1faa35378159c871d4e4dc162b1767]AWIC[/url] I wana run as well, get a fully covered intake path, but that's a ways down the road lol.

Feeling kinda dumb…

So, I got the BTSSM android app (highly recommended) and an OBDLink LX BT adapter to pair to my tablet. Not the speediest of wireless links, but I think it is good enough. So, since I didn't have a boost gauge (yeah, yeah I know), at least I can see Manifold pressure that the ECU is using for fueling, etc. First, I see peak boost of ~16 psi - ****, I think, must be a bad BCS, according to some forums.

Then I add in the boost target to the logging and gauge - max. target is 15.8 psi!! She's not a virgin! Looks to be an older (I've had it since late 2011) Cobb stage 1 map, probably 93 octane since it came from the east coast. It's still stock, mechanically. Does not appear to have been put back to stock; hardware looks OEM and untouched. According to old map notes, you can still have the stock DP on these maps. This may explain why my mileage was always crummy (at best 24 on summer gas, 90% hiway; further going to hell on E10 in winter:20-21). Hopefully the impending STI UP and ported ext bits and 3" CBE (HUSH!) will bring things more into line with the map parameters.

At least it's not knocking (usually just once at onset of WOT) and timing and fuel in the LV look normal.

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3621453]At least it's not knocking (usually just once at onset of WOT) and timing and fuel in the LV look normal.[/QUOTE]

Well, apparently, it [I]is [/I]knocking, far more than healthy upon review of the logs by others better versed than I. Currently running a tank of Sunol Super Stop (Sunoco? VP fuels?) 94 oct supah-juice. Reset ECU and [B]MUCH [/B]less knock and LV timing is all zeros. Might still be battling a vac/boost leak, as FT1 is +10% and FT4 is -3%, or its a cr@p tune :noidea:.

So, it's most likely a 93 oct tune (car came from FL)...good thing I've been running CA 91 for 4+ yrs! So, time to reflash to stock so I can stop using octane booster or blowing a $6 gallon of 94 just getting to and from Sunol from work :sad: every 7 days. Several nice folks have responded to my request for help. Can only cross-fingers that the ECU's tune is not locked (Cobb and ecutek did this starting in '08 and '06, apparently; pray it was OS). Also looking for used, stock ECUs, just in case...pray for viktimz. Will prolly go Cobb AP with OTS stg 1 tune at first, then dyno tuned when she's better mechanically.

Before I found the improvement with 94 oct fuel, a 3rd gear WOT pull (below) showed a nice estimated 214 HP (and low-ish TQ, and laaaate RPM pk.), but something seems off - not reaching even stock boost level till 3800 RPM, and 15.8 psi is ~4200 RPM. With the ported bits and catless UP, I should be at full boost in the low 3k's. Perhaps a 3-port EBCS, or at least a new OEM 2-port, mine may be dying. Or the turbo is just done...

from BTSSM android app (so much win...)
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91 oct, 3rd WOT pull:
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Now it's exhibiting signs of either an exh leak or the belt tensioner is going. Lord, it never ends. Wife's gonna love this one...

Cusco lower H-brace installed. Def improved steering feel and straight line driving; maybe even feels better under braking.

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3633426]Cusco lower H-brace installed. Def improved steering feel and straight line driving; maybe even feels better under braking.[/QUOTE]

Did you have a rear strut tower brace put it too? Noticed a difference after that, not so much the front though.

[QUOTE="de_engineered;3633449"] Did you have a rear strut tower brace put it too? Noticed a difference after that, not so much the front though.[/QUOTE]

Yep. Best bang for the buck in a wagon, IMHO. PAired with Botox bolts and sedan rear sway with Sti bar mounts. She rotates pretty well and flat.
I'm also debating the front strut bar (have it already).
I was gonna do the front bar's bushings but my day got cut short and I couldn't get the car up enough (ramps) to get my electric impact gun and deep sockets on the rear most bolts. First world people probs.
on the prowl for cowl stays if the front strut bar is meh.

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3633460]Yep. Best bang for the buck in a wagon, IMHO. PAired with Botox bolts and sedan rear sway with Sti bar mounts. She rotates pretty well and flat.
I'm also debating the front strut bar (have it already).
I was gonna do the front bar's bushings but my day got cut short and I couldn't get the car up enough (ramps) to get my electric impact gun and deep sockets on the rear most bolts. First world people probs.
on the prowl for cowl stays if the front strut bar is meh.[/QUOTE]

More than a rear sway? I know mine (in a GD sedan) made a huge difference. But if and when I get another Soob, I'd like another 04-05, but a wag this time, so paying more attention to the peculiarities of wags vs sedans.

I had the cowl braces, but also already had ALKs, but a stock alignment on Swifts (1" drop) after the braces were put on (long story), so didn't really feel anything. The front bar is gonna make a wee difference, but especially if you already have it, I'd say just go for it.

[QUOTE=de_engineered;3633658]More than a rear sway? I know mine (in a GD sedan) made a huge difference. But if and when I get another Soob, I'd like another 04-05, but a wag this time, so paying more attention to the peculiarities of wags vs sedans.

I had the cowl braces, but also already had ALKs, but a stock alignment on Swifts (1" drop) after the braces were put on (long story), so didn't really feel anything. The front bar is gonna make a wee difference, but especially if you already have it, I'd say just go for it.[/QUOTE]

Sorry for late response...

Yeah, for me since my rear bar upgrade was only from 19mm to 20mm OEM sedan bar, the rear strut bar was more noticeable. Can't recall any more the order they went in...the strut bar was re-used from my first, wrecked waggie, so that was probably in first, then the botox and bar upgrade. think my mods are dated on the first page of the thread.

GL

**** you, photobucket.

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3652312]**** you, photobucket.[/QUOTE]

I've been on imgur for a while. Most anything's better than PhotoSuckIt, but imgur is better than most anything, aside say your own server.
​​

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3652312]**** you, photobucket.[/QUOTE]

Yep, going to have to find a new service also. Those guys are going to regret that because they're going to lose all their users. Photobucket was good at the beginning. In the last few years they really started to suck big time.

H6 brake mod this summer...berry neice with Centric 106 material pads.

Passed visual SMOG check with turbo blanket, TMIC hose, turbo inlet (scratched off the "AVO" printing, so looks mo' OEM) and foil wrapped headers and GS X-pipe. Pays to go to ghetto/sketch places that don't have coupons!

Debadged hatch gate SUBARU...well, nature took its course on the "B" and I did the rest.

needs a T-belt...think I can "smell" an idler bearing dying on cold starts. And tires... and a drivers side valve cover gasket... sigh...

I did H6 brakes last year, I'm quite happy with it.

How did the grill turn out?

she still lives...leaks like a sieve...barely driven now that I train to work. Paint fading... Pricing CX-5 turbo dad-wagons.

[QUOTE=oaklandish_WRX;3665597]she still lives...leaks like a sieve...barely driven now that I train to work. Paint fading... Pricing CX-5 turbo dad-wagons.[/QUOTE]
no thoughts of an Outback Onyx XT?

[QUOTE=CHESTON;3665598]no thoughts of an Outback Onyx XT?[/QUOTE]
On paper it'd be an option, but it'd be a duplicate (functionally) of our '15 OBK the wife drives primarily. Truthfully, I'd like to find a clean, low modded, decent mileage '14 hatch but those odds are slim I know. And, I'm tired and too old to buy other people's problems; and I've not personally had a new-new car for me in literally 30 years. I can probably get a CX-5 Grand Tour Reserve for a few thousand less than an OBK XT, and it'd drive better out of the box. thanks...

My brother in law bought a 2020 OBXT just about 2 months ago. It is really nice actually. I have driven a few of the base models and thought the only thing missing was power and the XT fixes that for sure.

I just got my 04 WRX wagon back from the dealer for the airbag recall. It is my daily so it gets driven a lot more than the STI, but with shelter in place, I have driven both about the same, almost not at all lol.