Hey, everyone. I'm at 65K and I want to throw some new plugs at my 'Rex. It's pretty much stock besides the airbox mod and DIY grounds. Does anyone have any suggestions on a new set of plugs? Also, is there a decent How-To for doing the change out there? I'm still in the process of tracing my boosting problem, and I was thinking of letting the Subaru garage do the plug swap when they go in to check the turbo. Would that be a better way to go?

While we're on the topic, and as a sidenote, what do y'all suggest as far as mileage on a timing belt?

 

check out www.scoobymods.com they have instructions along with pictures.

 

Specifically here:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...=&threadid=511

And here:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...=&threadid=166

 

Excellent. Thanks for the links...I'm still in the process of digging up all the internet resources for this thing. (Damn my Honda years...=P)

Does anyone have a recomendation on the Timing belt? I've heard varying stories as to when you actually need to begin worrying about it, and the topic came up this week when my friend blew the head off of his Saab Turbo with a broken timing chain...I'd rather not wait that long. =)

 

Looking for a god place to get one step colder Iridium plugs for my WRX. Anyone got part #'s or places to order them? Thanks.
Dial-up is hell on internet searches.

 

One step colder-than-stock NGK Iridiums is BKR7EIX.

I had to read a convoluted thread on the other board but fortunately Uncle Scotty helped sort things out over there.

It does matter which plug you get. Some are designed for other applications and have a large gap, while others, like the one I cited above come closer to having the proper gap. You won't have to bend that side electrode at some horrendous angle to achieve the proper gap.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

 

>Does anyone have a recomendation on the Timing belt?

Not till 105K if I remember right

 

Excellent. Thanks!

 

Careful on plugs DJ - I love all the new stuff and bells and whistles on plugs - After many hours and bloody knuckles, I trudged into the dealer for OE. I did much research and found that for me (no engine mods) OE did it best. As much as I wanted to extract more juice out of the engine with lunar rock insulated electrodes and argon filled ceramic coated triple gap sensors and plutonium gaskets with Abercrombie/Fitch plug tips, OE did it best on a stock engine.

Please someone tell me that I'm wrong so I can justify an inexpensive weekend upgrade.

 

Yeah....I get things right once in a while

And, the "stock" plugs are no longer manufactured by NGK.
They were Platnium, the replacements are Iridium. Platnium is a terrible conductor, Iridum is a bit better. The reason these metals are used is that they provide an extended service life in comparison to copper, which is a FAR better conductor but need replacement far more frequently but cost much less....which leaves us with costs more/last longer....or costs less/doesn't last as long..... :banana:

For the NGK copper plug use BKR6E for stock heat range or BKR7Efor one range colder. These are ~$2/ea.

Good luck, and be absolutly sure that you don't cross thread the plug in the head!!! For the WRX 15ft-lbs. torque on sparkplugs.

 

None. The only benefit of precious metal (platinum or iridium) spark plugs is the extended service life. The possible benefit of a one step colder heat range spark plug is less inclination to detonate under sustained boost but it won't make up for poor engine management on a modded turbo engine. Go too cold in heat range and the plugs may have a tendency to foul after extended street driving.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

 

Heh...Abercrombie is making *everything* these days. =)

I'll have the car at the dealer today, so I'm going to have them do the plug install. Might as well...they'll have the coils out, so they might as well take care of the rest while they're in there.

And I value my knuckles...=)

 

heat range doesnt effect the gap, heat range effects how far the electrode protrudes into the cylinder from the insulator. You want it far out, only problem is in a high performance motor if its too far out it'll eventually turn into a secondary ignition source when it gets white hot. A colder plug moves the electrode further in to prevent this.

 

Just to clarify the NGK Iridium spark plug choice, the BKR7EIX is the correct heat range plug if one step colder is desired.

Some folks use the similar Iridium plug, BKR7EIX-11, which is identical except that NGK configured the side electrode (it's taller) to give a .044" gap, making it less desirable than the previously mentioned plug to use the recommended 0.028" to 0.029" gap. It can be re-gapped but the side electrode has to be bent significantly to narrow the gap to the center electrode.

Order the correct plug, keeping the side electrode closer to perpendicular to the center electrode, and you also won't risk breaking off that side electrode.

(thanks again, Uncle Scotty!)

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush