Grounding kits?
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Car Info: '02 WRX sedan
Grounding kits?
I know there are differing opinions out there surrounding grounding kits, but what kits have you all had luck with? Opinions? I'm starting to catch up on some of the suspension and audio with this thing, and I've had several people recommend grounding kits all around anyway.
Thanks!
--->DJ
Thanks!
--->DJ
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I bought a hyper grounding kit (8guage) and I put it on and you could feel it right away...but it didn't really seems like it provided more power, but it did seems like a SMOOTHER acceleration.
Although ever the past 2 months I had it on, I seem to notice it less. I don't know it it just loses it's effect after a while or if I just getting used to it.
What are the other experiences??
Although ever the past 2 months I had it on, I seem to notice it less. I don't know it it just loses it's effect after a while or if I just getting used to it.
What are the other experiences??
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
Car Info: 02 Subaru WRX w/ JDM Spec C
i have a hks circle earth, great kit my lights are brighter and my stereo is as loud on 7 as it is on 20 crazy huh! good and smoother ride, starts up quicker.
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Whatever you do, DON'T use the strut top mounting studs to ground anything!!! These studs are just about the worst possible place to try to use.
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Bad ground point...think about it....the stud is set in rubber in the strut top, the body is painted, so the only place where there is any electrical contact is where the threads touch the sheetmetal ring that the edge of the hole in the strut tower top. Even if the stud touched any metal in the strut top, current would have to pass through the strut components to get to ground(the body).
Better to use a bolt which is held to the body by a 'captive nut'. A captive nut is a nut welded to the body on the back side so that you don't have to hold it with a wrench to tighten the bolt to it.
I think this is one of the main reasons some people see no improvement when doing the grounding mod. They used strut top studs which are bad grounding points.
Better to use a bolt which is held to the body by a 'captive nut'. A captive nut is a nut welded to the body on the back side so that you don't have to hold it with a wrench to tighten the bolt to it.
I think this is one of the main reasons some people see no improvement when doing the grounding mod. They used strut top studs which are bad grounding points.
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Grounding
:banana: I have installed both the Sun Hyper grounding and Sun Hyper voltage LR on my 2000 RS. Installation instructions on both are excellent, with in an hour had both installed. Smoother accceleration, better throttle response, lights both interior and exterior are steady and brighter and better stereo reception. If any products can be underhyped, these are it.
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Uncle Scotty. I see your point. I have the following ground points:
Battery to fender wall
Fender wall to driver strut
Battery to manifold
Manifold to passenger strut
I guess I would be better off going to the passenger fender wall?
Where do you ground? I have one more wire that is very long if needed. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Scott
Battery to fender wall
Fender wall to driver strut
Battery to manifold
Manifold to passenger strut
I guess I would be better off going to the passenger fender wall?
Where do you ground? I have one more wire that is very long if needed. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Scott
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I ran a wire from the battery to a windshield washer bottle mount bolt to the firewall ground point, and to a bolt for a bracket under the boost controller cover back to the firewall ground point, I also ran wires to the intake manifold from each of the stock fender locations.
Originally posted by ScoobyBoy
im happy with my ghetto rigged one. just go out buy some wires and connectors. save yourself 100 bucks for something more useful.
im happy with my ghetto rigged one. just go out buy some wires and connectors. save yourself 100 bucks for something more useful.
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car Info: 04 Java Black Sedan
There was a post on the NASIOC.com forum about this that is the most well thought out post ever on this issue. The guy took a voltmeter and measured voltage between many different points in the engine bay. He listed before and after for each. Basically he proves that the points used were the best points. I followed these instructions and got rid of the hesitation problem with my 04, plus the lights are brighter.
I used 8 gauge wire from a local stereo shop and 14 crimp connectors. Cost me $20. I gran wires between:
Driver's side IM - Neg batt term
DSIM - Main grounding point on engine(under intercooler)
DSIM - Driver's side fender wall(right next to Neg batt term)
Main Grounding point - DS strut tower
MGP - passenger side strut tower
Passenger side IM - PS fender wall(by airbox)
PSIM - ABS bracket
In his measuring he determined that the IM was a better grounding spot than the main grounding point on the engine. He also found that by arranging the wire similar to how I have above decreased resistance between all points.
Look on that forum, it's easy to spot.
I used 8 gauge wire from a local stereo shop and 14 crimp connectors. Cost me $20. I gran wires between:
Driver's side IM - Neg batt term
DSIM - Main grounding point on engine(under intercooler)
DSIM - Driver's side fender wall(right next to Neg batt term)
Main Grounding point - DS strut tower
MGP - passenger side strut tower
Passenger side IM - PS fender wall(by airbox)
PSIM - ABS bracket
In his measuring he determined that the IM was a better grounding spot than the main grounding point on the engine. He also found that by arranging the wire similar to how I have above decreased resistance between all points.
Look on that forum, it's easy to spot.