water spots?
the other day i sprayed off my car because of all the bugs i hit on the road and it left water spots because i ddint wash it with soap and wat not. so today i washed it with soap (gold class) but some of the water spots are still there...what should i do?
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invest is some microfiber and wipe it down next time. otherwise, it should go away in another wash or two if you give it couple days..
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wax?
and! it wasnt that you didnt wash it and what not... its that you didnt dry it and it was the hard water that stained your pretty little paint... now wax it and next time dry it edgar, :/ |
if it really bugs you and you must take care of it asap, goto kragen and get a bar made by mothers..
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i cant wax it yet...the paint is still new..i think it was because i didnt dry it but this afternoon when i washed it i dried it with microfiber. the next time ill wash will probably be summer when i come home again. do you think its okay to leave it like it is until then? oh and i get a cusco rear sway today...oh man i love how it feels...haha i had to share..
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dont mater how new your paint is boy!
get a waxn edgar, :) ps spot wax will do you dont have to get down on the whole car just on your spots wax on wax off |
george at creative kustoms told me to wait about 1 month or so cuz the paint needs to breathe
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If you have water spots v1.0, you can clean it up pretty easily. However, if you got hit with v1.2, then you need some sandpaper and a big hammer.
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If you are going to take care of your own paint, get a good clay bar, like the Meguiar's Professional Grade Medium-Compound bar/Klasse Bar/Clay Magic/Mothers etc, and a big jug of Meguiar's Final Inspection (similar to Quik Detailer), and an empty spray bottle to refill with Final Inspection.
After a real thorough wash using liquid pot/pan detergent (palmolive/dawn), dry the car off really well using a chamois or soft terry towels, and then working one section at a time, spray the paint down well with the Final Inspection, and work the clay smoothly over the paint in linear motions, keeping both the paint and the bar well-soaked with the Final Inspection. After the entire car is clayed and the paint is silky-smooth, rinse it off with water, dry it really well again, and finish with a layer of Meguiar's Polymer Paint Sealant, SealTek ACR Professional Paint sealant, or Klasse Silver Bottle Polymer Paint Sealant, for the most protective coating for your paint. Apply any of the aforementioned paint sealant products with a foam wax applicator (or a folded terry towel), applying the sealant with dabs, not rubbing it in at all in circles or back and forth! This is very important to prevent scratching your vehicle's finish. You should just keep the applicator wet with wax, and apply it directly down onto the paint, and don't stop until your entire car is covered with dry dabs of sealant. Then take some clean microfiber towels and gently rub the died sealant off the finish, making sure to get all the seams. I will also do this for my wheels, as over time brake dust can really etch into the finish of your wheels. Paint sealant applied to completely cleaned wheels can help prevent permanent damage to your wheels' finish caused by brake dust buildup. Polymer paint sealants will provide the best protection for your paint against fallout and the elements, and leave a fairly sterile finish that isn't too glossy. While this is what I prefer, if you would rather have a really glossy final finish, after applying the paint sealant, simply apply as a topper, a good high-gloss wax like P21-s or S100 following the same directions for applying the paint sealant, for a really glossy finish. While I think the average car owner can perform these steps for care of their vehicle's finish, If you notice that your paint has any water spots and/or swirl marks visible after performing the above steps, I would contact a professional detailer if any machine buffing and polishing is needed. For Tire Sidewall and Vinyl care (dash, interior plastic), I recommend Aerospace Protectant 303 or Vinylex (with the edge going towards Aerospace). For preserving the door gaskets/seals that line the entire opening of the doors: Use BMW Special Door Gasket Lubricant : p/n 83-19-9-408-523 For preserving the exterior rubber sealing strips, like those at the seam between the door and the windows: Use BMW Carbaflo : p/n 83-23-0-309-627 Prior to applying the above products, clean the rubber first: Use BMW Concentrated Silicone Remover: p/n 83-19-9-407-906 |
step 1. Rinse car thoroughly to soften dirt
step 2. wash with warm water with car shampoo added.use a sponge and wash the rims at the same time. rinse out the sponge very frequently to remove grit built up it. step 3. rinse thoroughly. step 4. use synthetic drying chamois (cloth) and remove all water drops, panel by panel, fast, wringing it out frequently. As long as you use a decent wax at least once every 6 months you'll be fine. Lets never discuss washing dirt off a car again. |
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[QUOTE=zumnwrx]...and what not....[/QUOTE]
Couldn't help but hink of Uncle Rico. -Chris |
[QUOTE=Group B]If you are going to take care of your own paint, get a good clay bar, like the Meguiar's Professional Grade Medium-Compound bar/Klasse Bar/Clay Magic/Mothers etc, and a big jug of Meguiar's Final Inspection (similar to Quik Detailer), and an empty spray bottle to refill with Final Inspection.
After a real thorough wash using liquid pot/pan detergent (palmolive/dawn), dry the car off really well using a chamois or soft terry towels, and then working one section at a time, spray the paint down well with the Final Inspection, and work the clay smoothly over the paint in linear motions, keeping both the paint and the bar well-soaked with the Final Inspection. After the entire car is clayed and the paint is silky-smooth, rinse it off with water, dry it really well again, and finish with a layer of Meguiar's Polymer Paint Sealant, SealTek ACR Professional Paint sealant, or Klasse Silver Bottle Polymer Paint Sealant, for the most protective coating for your paint. Apply any of the aforementioned paint sealant products with a foam wax applicator (or a folded terry towel), applying the sealant with dabs, not rubbing it in at all in circles or back and forth! This is very important to prevent scratching your vehicle's finish. You should just keep the applicator wet with wax, and apply it directly down onto the paint, and don't stop until your entire car is covered with dry dabs of sealant. Then take some clean microfiber towels and gently rub the died sealant off the finish, making sure to get all the seams. I will also do this for my wheels, as over time brake dust can really etch into the finish of your wheels. Paint sealant applied to completely cleaned wheels can help prevent permanent damage to your wheels' finish caused by brake dust buildup. Polymer paint sealants will provide the best protection for your paint against fallout and the elements, and leave a fairly sterile finish that isn't too glossy. While this is what I prefer, if you would rather have a really glossy final finish, after applying the paint sealant, simply apply as a topper, a good high-gloss wax like P21-s or S100 following the same directions for applying the paint sealant, for a really glossy finish. While I think the average car owner can perform these steps for care of their vehicle's finish, If you notice that your paint has any water spots and/or swirl marks visible after performing the above steps, I would contact a professional detailer if any machine buffing and polishing is needed. For Tire Sidewall and Vinyl care (dash, interior plastic), I recommend Aerospace Protectant 303 or Vinylex (with the edge going towards Aerospace). For preserving the door gaskets/seals that line the entire opening of the doors: Use BMW Special Door Gasket Lubricant : p/n 83-19-9-408-523 For preserving the exterior rubber sealing strips, like those at the seam between the door and the windows: Use BMW Carbaflo : p/n 83-23-0-309-627 Prior to applying the above products, clean the rubber first: Use BMW Concentrated Silicone Remover: p/n 83-19-9-407-906[/QUOTE] Wow! you really know how to wash a car! i wish i had the time to do this one day. ...now i feel bad...my car deserves better... |
[QUOTE=WindingRoad]Wow! you really know how to wash a car! i wish i had the time to do this one day.
...now i feel bad...my car deserves better...[/QUOTE] Thank you. I perform the claying about twice to three times per year, wash the car (always with a pressure washer, to take off as much dirt as possible prior to using wash mits and soapy water) every week or two, and apply the paint sealant after every three to four washes. Ideally you take really good care of your vehicle's finish to avoid having to have it machine buffed and polished by a professional more than a few times in it's life. The reason being is that a vehicle's clearcoat can only take being machine buffed so many times before it gets worn-through. If you follow these guidelines, you can do a lot to keep your vehicle's finish smooth and free of oxidation, wheels free of brake dust etching, and keep the interior vinyl and rubber seals conditioned and prevent oxidation and cracking. David |
yeah use claybar for them water spots :D
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uh ok just some pointers from pros
never use a pressure washer on your paint... why? it breaks down the wax and clear coat same goes for hot water it also breaks down your wax. just some advise, im not a pro but thats what i was told take it or leave it edgar, :) |
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