Turning brake rotors

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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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Turning brake rotors

I'm getting some shudder when I brake my car at highway speeds. I've tried rebedding my brakes but that hasn't completely solved the problem. Where can I get my rotors turned somewhere near the south bay? Thanks
Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:08 AM
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Rebedding? How would that work with the same components?

Have them checked. I replaced my front pads and rotors because I thought the vibration was coming from there, but turned out to be my rears. Same symptoms as you, mainly a problem at speed, not so bad at street speeds.

Winchester Auto on Winchester can turn them for you pretty cheap if you take them off and bring them in.
Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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This is what I tried to do before

Instructions for bedding in your brakes
Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:16 AM
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That only applies to new components as far as I know. If you already have had them on there for any amount of time, they've already "synchronized" their wear patterns, so doing this likely won't make much of a difference. For new components, you definitely want to do it.

Last edited by 04GG; Jan 11, 2013 at 11:18 AM.
Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:17 AM
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Depending on how bad it is your could be *** out and just need new rotors.

Turning is really only going to help get ride of hot spots... pulsing and very minor malformation.

I'd just get some new rotors man.
Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:18 AM
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-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths


Bed-In Theory


Uneven Pad Deposit Removal
Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:19 AM
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I think new rotors is due... good luck
Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:21 AM
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You also only really want to turn them if you are getting new pads. Turning them and then putting the same pads back on will likely quickly lead to the same thing.
Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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The StopTech articles are an important read.

That being said, I do think that turning the rotors once in their life might be a good idea if you getting new pads. Here's my story:

Starting with a new car (2006), I ditched the stock pads within a few thousand miles to put on Ferodo DS2500's so that I could daily drive and do HPDE/autox/rallyx. I went through a few sets of DS2500's and never turned the rotors, but I did do the bedding that the StopTech article talks about. Each time, I checked the thickness of the rotors and they were within spec.

On the last set of DS2500's, I started to get the hum and the rotors were just beginning to looks polished. It was time for new pads and I switched to StopTech SP pads. I noted that while still within thickness spec, the rotor itself was now worn unevenly... that is, the outer was thinner than the inner (which makes sense for the faster linear velocity the longer the radius of contact). I did a proper break in procedure. But the rotor kept polishing and humming, and started pulsing.

I soon got totally new rotors, and rebedded the pads onto the new rotors. The transfer layer over the next few months (just daily drive) showed how uneven the pads had worn because of the angled worn rotor. I'm now with even wear, no humming, no pulsing. I recently put in my 2nd set of StopTech SP pads and did not turn the rotors. Everything is great.

MY CONCLUSIONS:
- turning rotors evens out rotor due to wear (ie inner is thicker than outer)
- turning rotors scrubs off deposits (if you didn't bed properly, and you get pulsing)
- I only need to turn rotors if my rotors is suffering from one or both of the above
- don't forget that turning eats up rotor surface, so don't do it unless you have a reason to (ie don't just automatically turn rotors every pad change)

IMHO
Old Jan 11, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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I've done pads without turning also if the rotors looked good and were plenty thick; and it does seem to be OK. With what he describes, unless he can measure them himself, I'd have someone check them.
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