O.k. Long story short I'm pretty sure my TGV sensor is giving me crap. I think it's cracked/broken.

I reach back there and push it together and my CEL turns off and my car runs like a monster. Then it wiggles loose and I get a P1088. Car still runs fine but I can't clear it. If it comes apart too much I get a P1091 and my car runs like ***.

So.... Anyone have one laying around they'd like to hook me up with?

It's the Passenger Rear. Believe it's number 1.

I never like how people refer to it as left or right... I'm like... am I sitting in the car or working on the car. sheesh.



And big shot out to Jeff. IPOZESTU. He was at my place for 2 days doing the lions share of the work on my car. No jeff... car still be apart in my garage.

 

excuse to do TGV deletes? lol

 

+1!

 

I'm not totally versed in the process, the gains and the effects of that particular modification.

How does it effect smog and performance? I guess I have some reading to do.

I figured I'd be able to find a sensor from someone that did the delete already. LOL.

 

It affects both, but emissions is not affected after the car is warmed up. You may get a little bit of extra power.

I have sensors lying around somewhere at my house. Only problem is that that's 1,300 miles away.

 

From what I have read it only affects emissions on cold start up.

 

That's about all I know. I don't know about any performance gains from doing it on a WRX.

 

I don't see how it couldn't give power gains. With out that butterfly I would imagine you would see freer flow. How much is debatable as I have never seen dyno numbers before and after with ONLY a tgv delete and tune. I would imagine you would need a re-tune after to see any gains.

 

Removing the valve and motors will throw the car into limp mode. That can be fixed in the tune.

Ironically I will also have a set of Grimmspeed TGV deletes + IM spacers for sale shortly.

 

Yeah I noticed when the lock closed... p1091 it goes in to limp mode.

I'd rather just put a new sensor back there and call it a day then mess with a delete.

 

If you want to do a delete, I'll fix the code for you if you can make it to Dublin or Fremont area.

If you want the sensor... well, that's the one that everyone breaks working on the turbo / uppipe area, so you won't find as many as driver side good ones. Gino and/or Andrew broke mine way back in the day before we knew what that code meant and it apparently failed open, because I drove it like that for years until I had to SMOG it, then just pulled them out and removed the CEL via open source.

The bad news is either deleting or not, you're looking at several hours of dis-assembly just getting it off.

 

That's the problem... I have to smog like right now.

I can definitely make it out that way. And yes... working on the turbo... broke... ding ding ding.

 

Maybe I can get in there and glue the ****er together until I can get through smog. Just to keep the CEL off so it'll pass.

 

I can delete the codes for you. This should fix limp mode and it will pass the CEL part of SMOG. If it's failed closed, it'll WOT ****ty, but will SMOG, that'll buy you time. If it's failed open, then you don't even really have to go in and fix it as long as you don't care about them closing when cold.

Or you can try glue, whatever it takes to keep that thing together long enough to get back and forth to the SMOG place.

If you know someone closer with a Tactrix, it's super easy to turn off the codes. There's an OBDII section and you just check the three TGV boxes and upload. You should check the readiness boxes too, so you don't have to drive 200+ miles before SMOG for the ECU to deem you "ready".

 

I don't. I roll out to Tracy on a regular basis and I need to roll out to Pleasanton to have my window tint fixed sometime in the next week or two so I'll drop you a line.

Basically I think it's operating just fine for the most part. The 1088 code is a low voltage code and the 1089 is a high voltage. The car isn't in limp mode. It's actually running pretty damned good (just pulled the catted up pipe after 200k). The only time it's gone in to limp mode was when it through the 1090 code and said it was failed closed. Then I have to go back there and wiggle the sensor and clear the code and it pulls out of limp mode.

I never paid much attention to codes and tuning to tell you the truth. My car is mostly stock in the engine department (Hence the 200k) LOL! I'm a suspension dude. So this is all new ground to me.

I'll let you know what goes down but more than likely I'll come out at some point before BAM... you going to BAM?