SMOG Help!!
 

So I got smogged today and was told I failed the ECU portion. My emissions were fine but I guess the ecu test failed due to a couple of reasons. The guy showed me that on his equipment that the 02 sensor was flashing, the Cat sensor was flashing and one other item maybe the evp. Unfortunately he barely spoke English so I had to pretend to understand what he said.

I have the car all back to stock except the uppipe and fuel pump. In normal driving I have a check engine light (what the code is I do not know because my ap always says error when I try to read it) on but I reflashed it with my AP today on the stock map before going in hoping that that would help. It removed the check engine light but obviously I still have a problem. My registration is due by the 24th of this month, does anyone have some advice for me? Do I need to put the stock uppipe back on, or change out the fuel pump? I appreciate all advice. I live in martinez ...are there any shops near by that would be good to go to?

If you don't figure it out call Fine Line Imports! There in Santa Rosa, they could help yah out!

Yeah I love fine line...They have done all the work on my car....but I live in Martinez, ca and I am up at 0430 hours and dont get off work until 1700 hours. I need a place a little closer but I will definitely send them a message.

Did you drive around to have the car go through all the cycles since you reflashed back to stock, it would reset the ecu.

No I did not. the place is literally half a mile from my house. Is it necessary to drive around before I go in? About how long should it take to reset?

Good luck, I know you need to drive a good while for car to learn.

you failed the monitor portion. drive the car around for 40-50 miles and it should get them running. mine only took 15miles but to be on the safe side if you dont have equipment to check, id go ahead and run it 50-100 miles before taking it back for that free retest.

im a smog tech btw.

[QUOTE=wrxBRAH;2967421]you failed the monitor portion. drive the car around for 40-50 miles and it should get them running. mine only took 15miles but to be on the safe side if you dont have equipment to check, id go ahead and run it 50-100 miles before taking it back for that free retest.

im a smog tech btw.[/QUOTE]
listen to what he says

[QUOTE=wrxBRAH;2967421]you failed the monitor portion. drive the car around for 40-50 miles and it should get them running. mine only took 15miles but to be on the safe side if you dont have equipment to check, id go ahead and run it 50-100 miles before taking it back for that free retest.

im a smog tech btw.[/QUOTE]

This. You need to let the ECU adjust and relearn etc before taking it back in.

Also, you need to shove a resistor into the uppipe o2 plug to hide the code. I'm guessing the code didn't have time to come up after the quick reflash but that's def. also going to cause you to fail.

I just went through this and passed with flying colors. 100% you do NOT need to remove the uppipe OR the fuel pump. Pm if you have any more questions or need a resistor- I have like 6 extra lol

Thanks for the info....I just had my check engine codes read. I am throwing up a p0546- exhaust gas. it was an issue with the front uppipe o2 censor....smrstc29 I willl try that resistor method.

the second code was a P0442 evap which I am guess has to do with the gasket oin my fuel tank from when I changed out the ful pump...or the gas cap.

[QUOTE=SR-DIABLO;2967452]Thanks for the info....I just had my check engine codes read. I am throwing up a p0546- exhaust gas. it was an issue with the front uppipe o2 censor....smrstc29 I willl try that resistor method.

the second code was a P0442 evap which I am guess has to do with the gasket oin my fuel tank from when I changed out the ful pump...or the gas cap.[/QUOTE]

If you take care of the uppipe code with the resistor fix and dont want to mess with the evap, just clear the codes again after putting the resistor on and then drive it 50ish miles without turning the car off.

You should at that point have all your monitors running minus the evap one. For 2001 and up cars, 1 red monitor still passes the smog test. Evap monitors [I]generally[/I] run when the car has been sitting for 8hrs and the gas level is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.

Now if you want to fix the evap problem, it could be as easy as a leaking gas cap or as hard as a fuel pump gasket/canister/evap lines/purge and evap solenoids/cracked tank.

Just checked the code and its a small leak, 90% chance its your gas cap =)

[url]http://www.scoobymods.com/showpost.php?p=23361&postcount=5[/url]

Clear your pm box

pm's cleared thanks for all the help guys. I got the resistors and will try that method tonight

I just completed the following mod [url]https://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93401[/url] with a resistor. I will find out in the next couple days whether it worked or not. In the process I noticed the O2/temp probe whatever it was was not even connected to my uppipe. It had been taken out and taped to some other electrical lines with the probe laying against the inside of the engine bay. Is this normal practice? I would expect that it should have been connected to the bung of my after market upppipe...right?

Thanks for the help guys just passed SMOG.