I'm not sure where to post this but I'll try here since I'm in this region and it gets more views. Sorry if it's in the wrong forum.

I started my car this morning and CEL came on. I checked the error with the AP and it says P2444. I've read in some threads that it's the secondary air pump stuck open.

The card has 55K miles at the moment. The only mods on the car at the moment is a downpipe and tune from the cobb AP. I've read about getting some block off plates and deleting the secondary air pump but I really don't want to do this. If I brought my car to the dealer, would they work on this under warranty or is it not covered?

 

It should be covered under warranty, as the downpipe shouldn't affect operation of the air injection system. It is likely that it will fail again though, that's why a lot of people delete them.

 

time for a air pump delete

 

Thanks guys.

Trying to avoid the delete. Haven't thoroughly researched it and not sure how much work it'll be but it does sound a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing the damn thing. I'll just let the dealer deal with it for now until they tell me it's not covered under warranty anymore. Don't have time to mess with it yet.

 

Its pretty damn cheap. You just toss the LIC delete plates in (they are hidden, looks like everything is still hooked up) then have a tuner go in and turn off the check for the pump and *tada*

 

Does this cause any issues come smog time? Would that trip any smog ECU testing parameters; i.e. emission sensor/system readiness or anything of that sort? Would a forced ECU turn off pop a red flag? Just curious. I have been lucky to avoid these types of issues.

 

Depends on who you get. I had this problem and ended up paying for the full repair which was $$. (trying to be emission responsible). When I got the car smogged, the tech noted the year/model of my car and LOOKED for the secondary air pump... so make sure you leave it in and make sure it still looks like it's all connected. Then make sure you run the car hot for a good 20 minutes so you pass smog.

The tech only checked for the presence of the device, and not actual operation.

 

Any car with OBD2 no longer has to be run to be tested. They only connect to the port and read the computer.

However their software can not detect any "bits" turned off. It can only look to see if you have thrown codes, and if it has been driven the required (100) miles since the last time the battery was changed/computer was cleared. Really all they are looking for is if everything is running right and if it has a OEM computer in it. (not a aftermarket unit)

So as long as you pass a visual test, and don't have any CEL codes you are good to go. Hell I passed with a full tune, and my cobb downpipe on LOL (I guess he missed it)

 

I ended resetting the ECU with the AP after I last posted since I couldn't stand the limp mode. I thought the error code would come back pretty quickly but even after the weekend it still hasn't come back. Dealer says it won't do the work under warranty unless they can see the error. Whoops, in hindsight I shouldn't have cleared.

 

Long as it's failed open it's not a big deal.

Should have just had the dealership fix it.

If you're not going to do that... buy LIC's plates and go that route. You already have the A.P. so it's easy to get it tuned out and you'll never have to worry about it going out again.

 

I think it's stuck CLOSED that's not a big deal... because this shuts the valve and isolates the airpump from the exhaust. Otherwise, if the blower is not on and the valve is open, then intended flow reverses and it becomes another exit path for the hot exhaust... which then melts and destroys the secondary pump.

This is exactly the problem I had. I went to the dealer and by that time the pump had already been destroyed and it had to be replaced as well as the valve. aka $$$$$

Even stuck closed is not perfectly reliable, because is some cases the is not permanently stuck closed. The conditions may change just enough for it to overcome the corrosion and flick open... then get stuck in that position.

solution:
- block off plates and program the code to disabled
- fix it properly (which will buy you 60-100k miles before it happens again)

 

Ah... good point. That would explain the limp mode.

It's the opposite for the tumbler valves. Unless I'm brain dead... which is possible. I'm tired as hell.

 

Error still hasn't come back. Starting to worry if indeed exhaust gases are flowing into the secondary air pump. Any way to induce the error so I can have it looked at?

 

why screw around. just block it, take the error out of the ecu, and you are done forever. No more worrying, no more stress, done. All for the cost of $55, a few hours work, and whatever a 'tuner' will charge you to go in and turn off the code.

 

This guy....




is right.